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95 Mustang GT 5.0

  • Thread starter Thread starter SafetyHazard
  • Start date Start date Apr 9, 2011
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SafetyHazard

New Member
Apr 9, 2011
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Bakersfield, CA
Apr 9, 2011
#1
  • Apr 9, 2011
  • #1
I recently purchased a 95 Mustang GT, and I am wanting to do a full engine rebuild, and then after that possibly do some mods.

First off, can anyone give me some reliable links to purchase a rebuild kit,

And if you were to slightly mod a 95 Gt, what would you do?
I'm not looking to gain insane Hp, just an extra 100 or so.
 

spartanpride

Member
Feb 17, 2011
73
0
7
Apr 9, 2011
#2
  • Apr 9, 2011
  • #2
I go through summit racing, they have everything for your 5.0/302! But if your rebuilding your entire engine, I would get a 331 stroker kit, it would be about the same as just rebuilding it anyway... Maybe someone else on here can give you a good source for one as i haven't personally got one. That alone should give you lots of additonal power! Then get some good flowing heads, a hot cam, good intake, roller rockers, bigger injectors, mass air sensor, throttle body, etc. That will easily put you in the 300hp range.
 

Husky44

10 Year Member
Sep 27, 2006
865
104
74
Tacoma, WA
Apr 9, 2011
#3
  • Apr 9, 2011
  • #3
MrCobra said:
I recently purchased a 95 Mustang GT, and I am wanting to do a full engine rebuild, and then after that possibly do some mods.

First off, can anyone give me some reliable links to purchase a rebuild kit,

And if you were to slightly mod a 95 Gt, what would you do?
I'm not looking to gain insane Hp, just an extra 100 or so.
Click to expand...

Welcome!

A few questions: Why do you want to do a rebuild? Have you checked out your engine and determined that one's necessary? These things last a LONG time, and internals generally aren't the problem.

Second: Are you after a horsepower number, or improved performance? The single best mod you're going to do (assuming it hasn't already been done) is a rear gear upgrade. Then, depending on what kind of driving you're doing, you really should look at some suspension upgrades, otherwise that 100 extra horsepower isn't going to get to the ground very well, and you're going to have lots of bragging rights, but not much performance improvement.

A suggestion: Line out what you have (5 speed or auto? Any engine mods already? Suspension?) and what your goals are. Post that up, and you'll get lots of good advice to get you to your goal. You'll get some really crappy advice on here too, but people will help you see through that.

Unless you're hobby is hooking up to a dyno, or you just like posting up dyno sheets on the web or talking trash about them in the bars, your goal probably shouldn't be 100 hp, I would suggest instead that it's some form of performance improvement for how you intend to drive the car.

Not trying to be a smart@$$, just trying to help you solve the right problem. The internet is littered with guys who spent a whole lot of time, effort, and money on their cars, only to be disappointed because they were trying to build a dyno number, and not a car that delivered their performance goal.
 

spartanpride

Member
Feb 17, 2011
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Apr 9, 2011
#4
  • Apr 9, 2011
  • #4
Very well said Husky44! I'm typing here before I'm really thinking about what was asked..
 

SafetyHazard

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Apr 9, 2011
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Apr 10, 2011
#5
  • Apr 10, 2011
  • #5
I agree, it was well stated.

It's manual, and it has currently zero upgrades to it.
Also, I should have stated before, but I am not wanting to do the rebuild right away, just for future references(if even needed).

This thing is completely stock has 140k miles on it, and the previous owner treated it like a baby.

All I am really looking to do, is make it better than all the little rice burners around my area(Not that it already isn't) but I want it to be even better.

You know??
 

Dino Dino Bambino

15 Year Member
Jun 13, 2007
1,672
89
79
Cyprus
Apr 10, 2011
#6
  • Apr 10, 2011
  • #6
It sounds like your engine still has a lot of life left in it but I suggest you do a compression check on all cylinders just to make sure you're starting from a sound base.
You car is already better than any rice burner in stock form so it would be better if you could state what your performance goal is. Do you want a 13-sec car, 12-sec car, or something even faster? Is it intended to be a daily driver, weekend cruiser, road racer, or a drag queen? Do you want the engine to remain naturally-aspirated or are you considering adding forced induction?
Before you start modding you need to take all these requirements into consideration so that you don't end up spending a lot of money on wrong/mismatched parts.
 

SafetyHazard

New Member
Apr 9, 2011
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Apr 10, 2011
#7
  • Apr 10, 2011
  • #7
Bullitt95 said:
It sounds like your engine still has a lot of life left in it but I suggest you do a compression check on all cylinders just to make sure you're starting from a sound base.
You car is already better than any rice burner in stock form so it would be better if you could state what your performance goal is. Do you want a 13-sec car, 12-sec car, or something even faster? Is it intended to be a daily driver, weekend cruiser, road racer, or a drag queen? Do you want the engine to remain naturally-aspirated or are you considering adding forced induction?
Before you start modding you need to take all these requirements into consideration so that you don't end up spending a lot of money on wrong/mismatched parts.
Click to expand...


It's my daily drive, but I still want it to be fierce. I'm looking for something around low 12s. I was thinking about using forced induction, but I am a little iffy on that.
 

revhead347

Apparently my ex-husband made that mistake.
20+ Year Stangneter
Jun 14, 2004
9,301
1,643
214
Acworth, GA
Apr 10, 2011
#8
  • Apr 10, 2011
  • #8
For stock rebuilds, it's pretty hard to beat the kits at Late Model Restoration supply. Low 12s can be done with a basic rebuild, just substitute some better pistons and a blower. It's pretty hard to beat forced induction. It just makes for a nice fuel efficient and reliable daily driver.

Kurt
 

Husky44

10 Year Member
Sep 27, 2006
865
104
74
Tacoma, WA
Apr 10, 2011
#9
  • Apr 10, 2011
  • #9
OK, lost in the long dissertation above is my first suggestion: Gears! Oh, yeah, and unstated, but do all the normal tune-up stuff, clean the MAF sensors...
 

SafetyHazard

New Member
Apr 9, 2011
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2
Bakersfield, CA
Apr 11, 2011
#10
  • Apr 11, 2011
  • #10
One question. How well does a stock 302 handle forced induction? I've heard too many different answers, and I would like a little more opinions. Ha.
 
9

94gt5.o

New Member
Dec 27, 2009
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ferndale WA
Apr 11, 2011
#11
  • Apr 11, 2011
  • #11
once you get up to 450hp things start geting weak. Do a search on the fourm and you will get lots of posts about it. You could do a H/c/i and that would get you pretty much right where you want to be if you have a healthy motor.Also gears best bang for your buck when modding.
 

SafetyHazard

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Apr 9, 2011
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Bakersfield, CA
Apr 11, 2011
#12
  • Apr 11, 2011
  • #12
I don't really want 450hp, I was looking more around 300, 350 tops.
 

Dino Dino Bambino

15 Year Member
Jun 13, 2007
1,672
89
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Cyprus
Apr 11, 2011
#13
  • Apr 11, 2011
  • #13
In that case I suggest the following route to near 350rwhp (400 crank HP) and high 11's:

Short block: Freshen it up with new rings/bearings/oil pump/timing set.
Top end: TFS 170cc heads, Holley Systemax intake, CompCams XE270HR-12 cam, 1.7 roller rockers.
Intake side: CAI, Pro-M 80mm MAF, Summit Racing 75mm TB.
Exhaust side: Long tube headers, O/R H-pipe, catbacks of your choice. I like MAC.
Supporting mods: 255lph fuel pump, 24lb injectors, tune.
Parasitic HP loss reduction: Underdrive crank pulley, short belt smog pump/AC bypass
FRPP 3.73 gears
MGW short throw shifter
Drag radials
Upgraded rear upper/lower control arms
Weight reduction
 

Stangstroke

Member
Mar 25, 2011
118
0
16
Barrie Onatrio Canada
Apr 11, 2011
#14
  • Apr 11, 2011
  • #14
MrCobra said:
One question. How well does a stock 302 handle forced induction? I've heard too many different answers, and I would like a little more opinions. Ha.
Click to expand...

How healthy is your stock motor have you put it on the dyno? A healthy stock motor makes about 185rwhp if your making that kind of hp and your compressions good try a blower and run it on your car until you burn down the motor and enjoy and then do a 306 or 331 stroker when your ready. That's what i did i drove my car completely stock with a Kenne Bell 2.1 for a full year the car made 300rwhp and 375 ftlbs of torque not to shabby.
 

SafetyHazard

New Member
Apr 9, 2011
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Bakersfield, CA
Apr 15, 2011
#15
  • Apr 15, 2011
  • #15
No one has really answered my most recent question. Haha. All I want to know at this point is if a stock 302 can handle forced induction from a single turbo running 5-7 PSI, or what upgrades will need to be made for that to work properly.
 

Stangstroke

Member
Mar 25, 2011
118
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Barrie Onatrio Canada
Apr 15, 2011
#16
  • Apr 15, 2011
  • #16
MrCobra said:
No one has really answered my most recent question. Haha. All I want to know at this point is if a stock 302 can handle forced induction from a single turbo running 5-7 PSI, or what upgrades will need to be made for that to work properly.
Click to expand...

Well up until this reply you didn't tell us what type of forced induction so now we know. Your stock motor as long as things are still tight (good compression not burning oil) your motor will handle 5-7 psi for awhile it also depends on your driving habits if you constantly pound on your car it could granade early but if you drive normal it could last many years at that power my guess on power on a totally stock motor with 5-7 psi boost you'll dyno in around 240 -250rwhp.
 

SafetyHazard

New Member
Apr 9, 2011
11
0
2
Bakersfield, CA
Apr 15, 2011
#17
  • Apr 15, 2011
  • #17
Stangstroke said:
Well up until this reply you didn't tell us what type of forced induction so now we know. Your stock motor as long as things are still tight (good compression not burning oil) your motor will handle 5-7 psi for awhile it also depends on your driving habits if you constantly pound on your car it could granade early but if you drive normal it could last many years at that power my guess on power on a totally stock motor with 5-7 psi boost you'll dyno in around 240 -250rwhp.
Click to expand...

What if I built the engine up with these parts exactly?

Sealed Power MHP173-000 - Federal Mogul Premium Engine Rebuild Kits - Kit/Combo Contents - SummitRacing.com

Ford Racing M-6250-E303 - Ford Racing Camshafts - Overview - SummitRacing.com

Ford Racing M-6268-A302 - Ford Racing Timing Chain Sets - Overview - SummitRacing.com

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FMS-M-4602-G/

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FMS-M-6582-BOSS/

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ESP-430230015090/

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FMS-M-6049-X306/

Is there anything else I will need, or any other suggestions?
 

Black Stampede

Founding Member
Sep 3, 2002
1,811
2
39
Grand Rapids, MI
Apr 16, 2011
#18
  • Apr 16, 2011
  • #18
Here is a pretty important question. How much do you want to spend?

I think you are getting way ahead of yourself as it is very easy to do when you first get your car.

Take a step back and stop worrying about all that motor stuff. Like others have said, check the compression etc, do a full tune up, then move on from there.

You also need to consider how much money you can afford to spend right now. Not a year or two down the road. If all you can spend right now is a grand or so then get some gears, exhaust, and a shifter and enjoy the car.

It is all relative, but just as many others have said and I will say with them, have a plan for your car because it makes things 10 times easier.
 

SafetyHazard

New Member
Apr 9, 2011
11
0
2
Bakersfield, CA
Apr 16, 2011
#19
  • Apr 16, 2011
  • #19
I know, I know. I tend to get way ahead of myself at times, and I don't think I want forced induction so much now. I will leave the engine internals alone for now, but what exhaust would you recommend? I mean, on Summit they don't specify what will, and will not pass smog in my state. And what type of shifter?
 

Black Stampede

Founding Member
Sep 3, 2002
1,811
2
39
Grand Rapids, MI
Apr 17, 2011
#20
  • Apr 17, 2011
  • #20
MrCobra said:
I know, I know. I tend to get way ahead of myself at times, and I don't think I want forced induction so much now. I will leave the engine internals alone for now, but what exhaust would you recommend? I mean, on Summit they don't specify what will, and will not pass smog in my state. And what type of shifter?
Click to expand...

Exhaust is really up to the individual. There are many threads on this site where you can find people's opinions as well as a site called mustangexhaust.com where you can hear different setups. As far as smog you will just need to get a midpipe with cats. The only thing I will say is I would get long tube headers for sure. As far as my personal opinion I used to run a dr gas x pipe and spintech pro street mufflers.

As for a shifter almost everyone either has a steeda tri ax or an mgw. You can't go wrong with either. Anymore questions, feel free to ask!
 
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