95 Vert slower than a '88 Hyndai Excel

[clev357]

It's not THAT slow, but it isn't far off. I have a stock '01 GT Coupe also. I'd say the '95 might pull mid-low 15's in the 1/4 at best. It's bone stock now. What's the best way to wake these things up? I'm on a buget for now so heads, intake, and cam are out. Any help on where to start will be a big help. I'm guessing an exaust. Are headers a big help or not too noticable?

Thanks, Tim

 

[rudeone707]

the biggest bang for the buck would probablky have to be gears or intake. they would probably cost about the same.

 

[Joes95GT]

I would say a few things are the largest bottle neck. By far, the intake manifold is the largest bottle neck on our cars. The second would have to be the H-pipe and the catback system. The pulleys on our cars are HUGE and we see a big improvement from underdrive pulleys. Gears are also a great bang for the buck assuming you have the cash.

Joe

 

[5.0 from 95]

I would go gears and then U/D pullies and then exhaust.


Paul

 

[clev357]

I'd like to stay away from gears because I live in the sticks and sometimes have a 60mile commute. I'd consider 3.55's but I don't know that they'd be worth the money.

The car does have a fresh tune up though. My thoughts are that the car just doesn't breathe well at all. That's why I was thinking exaust and maybe intake tube, also mass air and throttle body might be more doable.

 

[clev357]

What are the stock gears in a '95 Vert?

 

[95snoozer]

stall, pullies, cobra/explorer intake

 

[GTJake]

If your on a budget the best way to go about it would be to be to get a used o/r h-pipe, underdrive pulleys and a used intake in the classifieds. For the intake I'd look for a used Edelbrock Performer, Trick Flow Street Heat or a Cobra. Gears will also be a big hit but the installation cost can be pretty high depending on your area.

Jake

 

[clev357]

stall, pullies, cobra/explorer intake

When you say stall do you mean converter? This car is a 5sp. I heard the explorer intake won't fit a vert. Is that true?

 

[GTJake]

Stall is for an auto. The Explorer intake will fit just fine.

Jake

 

[bjl95mustang]

I have the explorer on my car and the only fit issue was the stock strut tower brace wouldent fit. You could try some junk yards around your area and try to find a explorer and get the intake off of that. I'm not shure about what year had the 5.0 with the good intake but I think it's around 96. And if you find an explorer at a junk yard and get the intake try to get the heads they are the gt-40p and they are a great cheap upgrade if you can find them new or used. You could also gut your cat's.

 

[mo_dingo]

Stock gears in the 94-95's are 2.73 OR 3.08. Mine has 2.73. Going from 2.73 to 3.55's will be a nice jump. But don't fear the gear. 3.73's aren't that bad. Our 5th gear is pretty short (.64). You can do the calculations if you wish.

Open your drivers side door, and look in the sticker on the body (where the door meets the body). Under axle code, a Z means you have 3.08. Anything else means 2.73. I think it's an M for 2.73's, but I can't remember.

Get gears. They are the best bang for your buck mod you can do. People usually report increased gas mileage after gear swaps. Do a search on this forum and you will find gas mileage numbers w/ post gear installations.

The stock h-pipe is VERY restrictive. Get a o/r H-pipe or o/r X-pipe. You will not regret it. The cat-back isn't very restrictive. You will not notice much increase in sound from just replacing the cat-back. The cats are the big restriction, and now my car is a blast to drive! (BTW, I am going w/ gears ASAP)

You can get o/r mid-pipes really cheap. Ebay has tons! The cat-backs are around 230 for flowmaster. Since you are on a budget, go w/ a flowmaster c/b, and a MAC o/r X or H. Next should be gears. Then an intake or LT's. It's your decision from there. I have a friend w/ a book full of dyno runs on near stock mustangs. I need to look it up to see the gains. I will post back when I get them.
Scott

 

[Killercanary]

Here's some details of my 'vert for you to go by...

Stock: 15.2 at 90mph

Added 3.73's, 14* timing, K&N w/o silencer, flowmasters, and an offroad X pipe: 14.96 at 91.5mph

Added ASP aluminum under drive pulleys: 14.6 at 94.89

Added E-brock intake, 65mm t-body, and fms shorty headers: 14.3 at 97.2mph

Added Nitto DR's and a homemade CAI: 13.83 at 98.55mph

Hope that helps you...

 

[mo_dingo]

Killer, do you believe that the .36 seconds taken off your ET was solely due to the u/d pullies? If that is the case, then I think my next mod after gears shall be pullies. I figured they were only worth a few hp and tq.
Scott

 

[red94fiveo]

I had the same thoughts as you about gears, 75% of my stangs miles are highway. You won't even notice the difference in revs with 3.73's, you will notice the increased acceleration. I waited a while to do gears b/c of this and couldn't believe the difference when I put them on. They wake the car up so much!

 

[Black Stampede]

Dude, do yourself a favor and clean your mass air before anything. It may or may not be dirty, but all I know is for the first 6 months I had my car it was slower than I could imagine. Turns out the mass air was filthy.

But yeah, other than that...GEARS. 4.10s since you have a vert. for sure....it'll pull nice.

 

[Killercanary]

Mo- I KNOW the pulleys were worth that on my car. I ran it several times with and without the pulleys and the gain was pretty solid.

 

[bjl95mustang]

Stock gears in the 94-95's are 2.73 OR 3.08. Mine has 2.73. Going from 2.73 to 3.55's will be a nice jump. But don't fear the gear. 3.73's aren't that bad. Our 5th gear is pretty short (.64). You can do the calculations if you wish.

Open your drivers side door, and look in the sticker on the body (where the door meets the body). Under axle code, a Z means you have 3.08. Anything else means 2.73. I think it's an M for 2.73's, but I can't remember.

Get gears. They are the best bang for your buck mod you can do. People usually report increased gas mileage after gear swaps. Do a search on this forum and you will find gas mileage numbers w/ post gear installations.

The stock h-pipe is VERY restrictive. Get a o/r H-pipe or o/r X-pipe. You will not regret it. The cat-back isn't very restrictive. You will not notice much increase in sound from just replacing the cat-back. The cats are the big restriction, and now my car is a blast to drive! (BTW, I am going w/ gears ASAP)

You can get o/r mid-pipes really cheap. Ebay has tons! The cat-backs are around 230 for flowmaster. Since you are on a budget, go w/ a flowmaster c/b, and a MAC o/r X or H. Next should be gears. Then an intake or LT's. It's your decision from there. I have a friend w/ a book full of dyno runs on near stock mustangs. I need to look it up to see the gains. I will post back when I get them.
Scott

I think there was also a 3.27 option for gears for the 94-95 stangs. I'm not sure on the details of the option. I think the door code was d for the 3.27's. The best way to check is to jack up the rear of the car and put the trans in neutral and mark a spot on the drive shaft, then rotate the rear tire 1 revolution and count how many times the drive shaft spins. Ex if the drive shaft rotates 2.73 times then you have 2.73's and so forth.

 

[95snoozer]

When you say stall do you mean converter? This car is a 5sp. I heard the explorer intake won't fit a vert. Is that true?

oh thought you had an auto....


yeah, get the 4.10s or 3.90s and some pullies, and intake . that will wake it up

 

[SuperDust22]

I think there was also a 3.27 option for gears for the 94-95 stangs. I'm not sure on the details of the option. I think the door code was d for the 3.27's. The best way to check is to jack up the rear of the car and put the trans in neutral and mark a spot on the drive shaft, then rotate the rear tire 1 revolution and count how many times the drive shaft spins. Ex if the drive shaft rotates 2.73 times then you have 2.73's and so forth.

Yes 3.27 was an option for 94-95. That's what came on my car.