97 4.6 GT Convertible problem!

dancoy2000

New Member
Sep 9, 2007
11
0
0
Hi guys, I have a problem. Friday, I took my car in for an oil change (yeah, I know) and had them clean the injectors (looked like they hung a bag, I.V. style)…car ran fine all the way home. Yesterday, I decide that I would clean the motor with some Gunk degreaser…I used two cans and let it sit 15 minutes like the instructions said. I washed it off and admit that I was too generous with the water. Started the car and the ABS warning light was lit. Took the car to the carwash and when I started the car, the ABS light went out.

Everything was fine until today when I was pulling out of a parking lot. I gave it some gas to get into the flow of traffic and the car hesitated and sounded like it was "gurgling." The strange thing is that this happens only in a small RPM range under load….the car idles fine and once I get past the small RPM range, it seems like I get the power back.

Any ideas? Thanks in advance!

Dan:flag:
 
ooohh i dunno, but from previous threads on here:

Check your sparkplugs. Maybe they got wet or something. I seen some people recommend getting a vacuum or some sort and sucking the water out of the plug.

I would wait for more response because i have no car knowledge at all =]
 
Hi guys, I have a problem. Friday, I took my car in for an oil change (yeah, I know) and had them clean the injectors (looked like they hung a bag, I.V. style)…car ran fine all the way home. Yesterday, I decide that I would clean the motor with some Gunk degreaser…I used two cans and let it sit 15 minutes like the instructions said. I washed it off and admit that I was too generous with the water. Started the car and the ABS warning light was lit. Took the car to the carwash and when I started the car, the ABS light went out.

Everything was fine until today when I was pulling out of a parking lot. I gave it some gas to get into the flow of traffic and the car hesitated and sounded like it was "gurgling." The strange thing is that this happens only in a small RPM range under load….the car idles fine and once I get past the small RPM range, it seems like I get the power back.

Any ideas? Thanks in advance!

Dan:flag:



Keep the water off the motor. Most likely you now have water in one or more plug wells, and with a motor that old, the plug boots are probably cracked on the ends. This is a prime source of poor running. You need to blow the wells out (don't pull the plugs or you will dump the water and grit down into the cylinder) with compressed air. Dry the boots, use some plug boot grease on them, and you will probably be good to go.

BTW did I mention to keep the water off the motor? That causes more problems than any other user action I can think of. Corrosion in connectors, water where it doesn't belong. Etc.

I will also add, in closing, be sure to keep the water out from under the hood.
 
I'll get a can of compressed air tomorrow.....will that be enough? Thanks for the advice!

Dan

P.S. Did you mention something about water? hehehe

A "can"? Perhaps CO2 rather than air I would assume? Could work. You can also take a paper towel and use a very thin screwdriver to push it down into the well and absorb as much of the moisture as possible.

Another trick is to pour some rubbing alcohol in the wells and then dry it out with air or paper towels. The alcohol will absorb the water instantly, and when you soak or blow it out (preferably both, and in that order) the water will be gone.
 
Dont laugh please Bob...I am a computer guy! I am guessing that you have seen the cans of compressed air that are sold to use on PC's...I was thinking that this would be good to use, but I dont know if they have enough pressure to get water out of there?

I am wondering if I should just buy new plugs and wires? I will be sure to get that water out of there before the plugs are pulled....any suggestions on plugs and wires? The car is a daily driver and I dont really dog it out or do any racing.

Thanks for you help!

Dan

P.S. I will probably have to take the car into a garage for them to replace the plugs and wires....sucks I know, how much should I be paying for this job?
 
Dont laugh please Bob...I am a computer guy! I am guessing that you have seen the cans of compressed air that are sold to use on PC's...I was thinking that this would be good to use, but I dont know if they have enough pressure to get water out of there?

I am wondering if I should just buy new plugs and wires? I will be sure to get that water out of there before the plugs are pulled....any suggestions on plugs and wires? The car is a daily driver and I dont really dog it out or do any racing.

Thanks for you help!

Dan

P.S. I will probably have to take the car into a garage for them to replace the plugs and wires....sucks I know, how much should I be paying for this job?

I assume you mean "dust-off" or something similar? (BTW I am a computer scientist, been teaching computer science since 1970 at two different universities). Dust-off is CO2, rather than air. If you notice, when you turn the can upside down or tilt it too much a liquid comes out that evaporates instantly. The pressure to liquify air is horrendous and a small aerosol can won't hold it. That CO2 can won't produce the velocity of a good 100+ psi compressor, but it will probably work, particularly if you first pour in some alcohol to absorb the water.

You can go to advanced/auto-zone/etc and buy a set of 8 plug boots and springs (if you have COP) or a set of wires if you don't. Plugs will cost you about $2 a pop for platinums. Changing the plugs will take maybe an hour, factoring in the time needed to dry/blow out the wells first.

A shop is going to charge you something beyond $100 per hour, and they will probably take a couple of hours when you factor in cleaning/drying the wells and replacing the boots or wires... Would not surprise me to see the bill pass $200, easily, probably closer to $300 or so if you want new wires. You can do it yourself for about $16 for the plugs, $50-$60 for a good set of Taylor wires, a buck or so for the alcohol, and an hour or two of your time.

You can cut the cost a bit by using ACCEL or whatever wires/boots advanced/auto-zone sells. Or you could save a bit more by ordering from the internet...
 
Thanks guys and Bob, that is some good info....I didn't give thought to the liquid that sometimes comes out of Dust-off. We do have a compressor, and I guess that it is time that I begin to use it...fact is I am somewhat of a chicken and dont want to make this problem worse. I remember the last time my dad and I changed plugs on my RX-7...the next day I was off to take an important test and the car ran horrible! A bunch of money later, it turned out that we didn't tighten down the plug enough!

I'd really like to get new wires and plugs, I am sure I can get the specs for torque and the gaps off the net…..anything unusual that I should look out for? I am thinking that I need to blow out/dry out the wells, pull the wires (making a layout drawing of the plugs (1-8)), take out the old plugs, gap the new ones, install the new plugs, and then the wires. Did I miss anything?

Thanks for your time and attention!

Dan
 
Thanks guys and Bob, that is some good info....I didn't give thought to the liquid that sometimes comes out of Dust-off. We do have a compressor, and I guess that it is time that I begin to use it...fact is I am somewhat of a chicken and dont want to make this problem worse. I remember the last time my dad and I changed plugs on my RX-7...the next day I was off to take an important test and the car ran horrible! A bunch of money later, it turned out that we didn't tighten down the plug enough!

I'd really like to get new wires and plugs, I am sure I can get the specs for torque and the gaps off the net…..anything unusual that I should look out for? I am thinking that I need to blow out/dry out the wells, pull the wires (making a layout drawing of the plugs (1-8)), take out the old plugs, gap the new ones, install the new plugs, and then the wires. Did I miss anything?

Thanks for your time and attention!

Dan

If you have wires, replace them +one+ at a time. Too easy to get interrupted and put one back in the wrong place and that will cause severe drivability issues.

Other than that, it is an easy task. I think the plugs should be torqued to 13 ft-lbs, but I've done so many over the past 30+ years that I just torque 'em "just right" and move on. A touch of anti-seize on the threads will be worthwhile, but just a touch. Don't fill the electrode end with the stuff...

Otherwise, you have it right. Do gap 'em even though the parts place will say they are pre-gapped. I rarely find them gapped very accurately, and if they come in boxes without a cardboard sleeve over the electrode end, the gaps will be wildly off...
 
Well....got into the car today to go get the plugs and wires and the car was running terrible! The check engine light came on and I decided to take it to a local shop. Two hours and $100 later, the mech tells me that there was water in the plug wells and that he blew it out with a air compressor w/a long probe. I pay and leave.

On the road, I give her some gas and would'nt you know it...the car still is missing! It is running better, but I can tell (I have driven it alot)....I found a spot where I could give it a lot of gas and the car was surging...seems like it was missing on a cylinder.

Before I left the shop, the mech suggested I tune it up and told me that the plugs cost around $9 each and the wires cost around $160! I thought that was pretty high so I passed, plus, I dont have that kind of money now...I'll need to save up (I am a social worker and we dont get paid $%*).

I guess I will be okay for normal driving for awhile, but this is going to bug me until it is fixed.
 
Agree....kind of upset, the car is not running right and upon closer inspection, it doesnt look like they cleaned the driver side boots...I can see grease and dirt on the boots....maybe that is why the car is not running right?!?!:mad:

Thanks for you input,

Dan