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97 Explorer motor in 95 Mustang Gt

  • Thread starter Thread starter SlowSN95
  • Start date Start date Mar 28, 2020
S

SlowSN95

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Mar 28, 2020
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Dequeen, Arkansas
Mar 28, 2020
#1
  • Mar 28, 2020
  • #1
Alright so I have a 95 mustang GT with the original 5.0 that has 201k and a blown head gasket. The engine is tired so rather than replacing the head gasket I’m looking to swap in a 96-97 mountaineer or explorer motor. I know there’s threads for this but they don’t really give me the details I need, this is my first motor swap so I could use some detailed info. I know I’ll have to swap my accessories, oil pan, pump, and pickup tube, and that I’ll need a intake elbow adapter for the throttle body. What else will I need?
 

revhead347

Apparently my ex-husband made that mistake.
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#2
  • Mar 29, 2020
  • #2
You'll need the timing cover and water pump off your 95' as well. Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I think those are P heads, so you will need P swap headers. As I understand it they are getting hard to come by. While you have the timing cover off, put a new timing chain on it, and a cam as well. The cam will really liven it up. The explorer intake will not clear the factory strut tower brace. You can leave it off, and never know the difference.

Kurt
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
20+ Year Stangneter
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polk county florida
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#3
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According to what I have read here you likely will need to upgrade the valve springs on the heads if you go with a different cam, even with a ho cam they float at about 4500 rpm.
 
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revhead347

Apparently my ex-husband made that mistake.
20+ Year Stangneter
Jun 14, 2004
9,302
1,644
214
Acworth, GA
Mar 29, 2020
#4
  • Mar 29, 2020
  • #4
General karthief said:
According to what I have read here you likely will need to upgrade the valve springs on the heads if you go with a different cam, even with a ho cam they float at about 4500 rpm.
Click to expand...

Sorry I overlooked that. I generally overlook wear items like that. Springs and valve seals are cheap, and I change them every time on an engine swap.

Kurt
 
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SlowSN95

New Member
Mar 28, 2020
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Dequeen, Arkansas
Apr 2, 2020
#5
  • Apr 2, 2020
  • #5
revhead347 said:
Sorry I overlooked that. I generally overlook wear items like that. Springs and valve seals are cheap, and I change them every time on an engine swap.

Kurt
Click to expand...
Will I need anything extra to make the A/C Work? And thank you for the info I was unsure on whether I needed to swap the timing cover or not. I bought the car used and it never had a strut tower brace had no idea that was a factory option. As for my trans will it bolt to the explorer motor without any problems ? And do you happen to know if I’ll need to drop the manual trans to pull the engine out?
 

revhead347

Apparently my ex-husband made that mistake.
20+ Year Stangneter
Jun 14, 2004
9,302
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Acworth, GA
Apr 2, 2020
#6
  • Apr 2, 2020
  • #6
SlowSN95 said:
Will I need anything extra to make the A/C Work? And thank you for the info I was unsure on whether I needed to swap the timing cover or not. I bought the car used and it never had a strut tower brace had no idea that was a factory option. As for my trans will it bolt to the explorer motor without any problems ? And do you happen to know if I’ll need to drop the manual trans to pull the engine out?
Click to expand...

The transmission will bolt right up. You can take the flywheel off the old engine, and stick it on the new one. You can pull an engine with the transmission in the car, but usually it's just easier to take it out. I always pull the transmission and engine together, because it's easier. AC is no problem, you bolt the SN accessory brackets to the new engine. You can actually unbolt the AC compressor, and zip tie it to the inner fender, and never have to let the gas out.

Kurt
 
S

SlowSN95

New Member
Mar 28, 2020
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Dequeen, Arkansas
Apr 2, 2020
#7
  • Apr 2, 2020
  • #7
revhead347 said:
The transmission will bolt right up. You can take the flywheel off the old engine, and stick it on the new one. You can pull an engine with the transmission in the car, but usually it's just easier to take it out. I always pull the transmission and engine together, because it's easier. AC is no problem, you bolt the SN accessory brackets to the new engine. You can actually unbolt the AC compressor, and zip tie it to the inner fender, and never have to let the gas out.

Kurt
Click to expand...
Alright man I appreciate it, you got a cam and a set of valve springs you’d recommend ? Is there any cam(besides stock) that I could swap in that wouldnt require a tune? At least not immediately? I don’t want crazy horsepower, just a nice lope and a little bit of extra power. Sorry for all the newbie questions, this is my first time getting this in depth with a engine.
 

revhead347

Apparently my ex-husband made that mistake.
20+ Year Stangneter
Jun 14, 2004
9,302
1,644
214
Acworth, GA
Apr 3, 2020
#8
  • Apr 3, 2020
  • #8
SlowSN95 said:
Alright man I appreciate it, you got a cam and a set of valve springs you’d recommend ? Is there any cam(besides stock) that I could swap in that wouldnt require a tune? At least not immediately? I don’t want crazy horsepower, just a nice lope and a little bit of extra power. Sorry for all the newbie questions, this is my first time getting this in depth with a engine.
Click to expand...

I've never run that combination. Others here would know better. I searched it, and a combo with an Anderson N41 came up. Never hurts to call Comp Cams. Tech support is there for a reason. Valve springs will have to match the cam.

Kurt
 
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