With a pi swap, full exhaust, long tube headers, full bolt on and Bama race tube, is 280whp realistic for a 98 gt?
Preciate that, I was contemplating between pi swap or just putting an aftermarket cam in it. I was under the impression that labor and parts for a cam job would be cheaper and after a tube could put me in the 250-260whp range?Full bolt ons (full intake and exhaust), pi heads, pi cams, and pi intake will get you near that power level assuming you have npi pistons (that you have the stock motor for your year) that increase your compression ratio. More aggressive cams / porting those pi heads would more comfortably put you in the 280 rwhp range or higher. I would take advantage while you are working on the swap and plan what you want to do if your budget allows it.
Wow how much did the pi swap cost in parts?You can reach 300 rwhp. I took a stock 96 gt engine. Threw on cat back exhaust, cut out the cats, LTs, full K&N CAI, 75mm throttle body and plenum, then lastly did the full PI swap. Did a couple pulls on a Mustang dyno (they read low) and got 298 hp and 322 tq. That was no tune and just running on 91 octane pump gas.
Nice, I guess I was thinking of when people boost stock npi motors and the motors can only handle up to 350whp before breaking, but I guess the pi heads give more strength or was I just misinformed in general?Yes, in my case the PI cams were already in the heads. A lot of people go with just a used set from a junkyard but that's all up to your budget and preference. No as far as hp and torque go you are far from the limit. If you have a manual t-45 I think it's rated at 450hp and I dunno how much torque but as long as you don't drag race with slicks you can boost and you'll be okay.
Wow never knew that, so you said you are running yours without a tune? Has it been pretty reliable?Also not to mention the pre PI rods and pistons are stronger than the 99 and up ones because they went to crap pot metal for those engines to "save money"
Dang that sucks to hear, you just going to re build the motor?It was very reliable. I say was because I recently found a lot of metal shrapnel from some bearing in my oil pan and my engine is now toast. However I'd like to add that the previous owner was an absolute devil to that thing. How do I know? Just replaced my transmission and clutch 2 months back and I only have 87k miles.
Do the full pi swap and don't look back. I tried to make power with stock npi heads and aftermarket cams. I now have fox lake heads, trick flow cams, 12psi procharger etc. I'm on a stock 58k mile npi short block. Looking for 400-425 when we re tune it. Only made 340 on npi heads. They are restrictive unported.[/QUOTE
That's a big difference lol I know full pi swap is the answer but I was contemplating if just an aftermarket cam would be cheaper and easier. Honestly wasn't looking for a lot of power right now as it's my only car lol
Oh so they don't come already in spec to be installed?My Trick flow cam, pi intake, full bolt on (Npi headed) auto car ran 14.18@99 at 2500DA. While respectable for a auto car still not blazingly fast.
IF... IF you get cams, be sure to send them to MHS or a comparable shop to get degreed (Aftermarket cams that is). My cams were not degreed by the prior owner (that has since been rectified).
Oh so they don't come already in spec to be installed?
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