99-00 timing cover

trombonedemon

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Jun 25, 2009
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Does anyone know if I would have to remove the oil pan to take off my timing cover. My Chiltons guide is saying that the SOHC engines would need to remove the oil pan to take the Timing Cover off. That would would require me to actually lift the engine cause the crankshaft would be in the way. I want to avoid removing the pan. Looks to be only a couple of bolts holding the cover to the pan. These guides are nortorious for adding extra unneccesary steps. Yay or nay for the removing of the oil sump. I really need to change my chain guides and tensioners.
 
The Ford SOHC service manual says NO. Obviously the timing cover to oil pan bolts will have to be removed.

The oil does need to be drained.

It seams reasonable to me that the oil pan can be left in place when removing the front timing cover.

So this is why you were asking questions about the timing procedures. So what's happened to your chains? What's the story?

I presume that you will mark the ends of the chains before re-timing. :eek:

Keep us posted. Good luck.
 
The Ford SOHC service manual says NO. Obviously the timing cover to oil pan bolts will have to be removed.

The oil does need to be drained.

It seams reasonable to me that the oil pan can be left in place when removing the front timing cover.

So this is why you were asking questions about the timing procedures. So what's happened to your chains? What's the story?

I presume that you will mark the ends of the chains before re-timing. :eek:

Keep us posted. Good luck.

Well, my timing chain is making a lot of noise, so I assume that the guides are worn down, so I plan to go and replace both timing chains, crank sensor wheel, both tensioners and guides. So that would require me to re-time my cams:shrug:? I assume that if nothing is turned, I wouldn't have to re-time, correct me if I am wrong.
 
Well, my timing chain is making a lot of noise, so I assume that the guides are worn down, so I plan to go and replace both timing chains, crank sensor wheel, both tensioners and guides. So that would require me to re-time my cams:shrug:? I assume that if nothing is turned, I wouldn't have to re-time, correct me if I am wrong.
Not to be a buzz kill, but how are you going to "know" the cams haven't moved unless something is "holding" them?

Obviously the timing procedures are easier if just replacing the chains and direct timing pieces. IMO, some of the same issues still apply. Either use the cam holding tool or index the crank at 6 O'clock with the cam timing dots at 12 and 11 O'clock. Fold the chains in half and mark the end links. Match the marked links up with the dots and you will be golden.

What many ppl are forgetting is that when the roller followers are still in place, there is valve spring tension on the cam. Depending on where the cam is, the spring tension MAY make the cam turn once the timing chains are released. The marks on the chain provide the postive verification that timing has been restored.

OBTW, if the chains are making noise while running, its a good idea to replace them. That is how the old motor in my 2000 met it's fate.
 
you DO NOT have to remove the oil pan. thats obsurd
Thats kinda what I thought too, when I read the guide, but thats exactly what was stated. Again, the Haynes/Chilton does not replace someone thats work on the car before, but thats all I have and my wits.
Burns, I've found the Positioning tool and the Cam Holding tool.
1. Do I need the Cam positioning tool?
2. Do I need 2 Cam Holding tools?

Just realize I had to get a Crank Pulley Removal tool and timing gasket, sheesh.
 
yea my 00gt engine met its fate the same way, the guide wore so bad the engine was so far out of time the piston slapped the valve, broke it, dropped it in the cylinder, broke the piston, cracked the cylinder wall, in turn in the event broke the valve spring, dropped the stem wedged it in the cylinder and cracked the block. now not necassarily in that order but thats what i figured out.