99 mustang dyno numbers good or bad

If you to make the most of your cams, you are either going to have to port your heads, buy a set already ported, or get a set of trick fllows. Personally I recommend a set of Trick Flows, but that's just my opinion.

rispoli_23 said:

it just drives me crazy when i see other guys posting there numbers at like 260 or 280 and they only have cai and exhaust

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Allot of people here lie about or atleast "frabricate" their numbers. Most have never been on a dyno. They read an article on the internet about what there car new puts out a tthe fly wheel, then add on what the "manufactures" claim for their little mods and all of a sudden they are at unrealistic numbers.

Keep doing it right!!

Rispoli 23, like dls322 says, there are a lot of liars. Unfortunately that doesn't exclude manufacturers. As far as magazines go, they wouldn't stay in business very long if they told you in their articles that the parts they tested made no power. They rely on advertising dollars from the manufactures whose products they test. Between the two of them they will, quite often, make sure to get the results they are looking for.

Your intake manifold is, to put it delicately, not helping. You should either switch back to PI or go with one of the better aftermarket manifolds. Edelbrock, Trick Flow, and Fox Lake have all put serious R&D into their designs, and they are all tailored for very specific power bands and setups. The Typhoon is nothing but a poorly reconstructed PI manifold made of aluminum. The fact that it is made of aluminum is its weakness because it gets heat soaked VERY quickly. Once this occurs, you are losing out the the PI (composite material so heat soak isn't an issue) at all levels.

The only mods in your sig actually contributing power are your cams, plenum, mid pipe, and tune. Unfortunately you have fallen prey to a couple of common mods that make great claimed power to cost ratios, but no actual power. If you could actually get 15HP for a CAI or throttlebody don't you think ford would outsource that part to that manufacturer? The sad truth is (or is it really sad) that at anything close to stock power levels, the factory components are actually not costing you any power. Throttle bodies, CAI, and MAF meters will have ZERO benefit for you until you deal with the biggest restriction in your system - your cylinder heads. After that your cams are the next biggest restriction, followed by a toss up between the intake manifold and the exhaust manifolds.

Think of your engine as a highway, the part of the highway your cylinder heads are is (right now) two lane. Your intake tract which comes before is four lane, and your exhaust which comes after is four lane also. The traffic flowing down the highway is the airflow your system can process. If you can pass more traffic then you make more power. Adding CAI, TB, and MAF is like widening that first part of the highway to six lanes. Does it really help you move more cars through? Not in the slightest.

You have to work on the most restrictive parts to increase overall air flow. Once you do then you work on the next most restrictive item. And so on and so forth. I hope this helps, not trying to bash you or anyone else.

That was well said "Midnight2V" and I couldn't agree more

First off, different places around this big ole' country will give different results, e.g. Denver, Colorado vs. Death Valley Cali., so don't fret, the typhoon intake was probaly meant to perform w/forced induction, unfortunately it will work against you in humidty and hot weather but, work for you in cold dense air, like at night time, your mods are fine. I wonder what was the climate like when you dynoed. The problem w/these tunes is if you tune in one type of climate, the computer may not know how to adjust in another type b/c its possible the tune threw off what the cpu was designed to compute. Thus, the complications and code throwing I've been reading about w/all these tunes. So don't worry,just be happy your car is running normally w/a different tune, and don't spend any more cash on another intake, you never know what basic maitenence you will have to do. Long story short, the larger volume of air your car sucks in, the more it can work against you, and some times it takes just a little humidity.

:Track:

See how the car runs and see what it traps. Post the times, DA, and then go from there.

Allot of people here lie about or atleast "frabricate" their numbers

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No so. I've been here for a long time, and there have not been too many people that fabricate their Dyno's. Last time I checked, NA 2v's are not dyno Queens. Most people just look for help and post up what they dynoed at.

Your best bet is to take the car to the track before and after each mod. Record the DA, post the slips, and then see what needs to be done.

rispoli_23 said:

thanks that was really helpfull ... so the typhoon intake is really that bad that the stock intake is better ??? thats crazy i wish i knew that before i spent 500 bucks on it i would spent the extra 300 on a trickflow .... if i get the trickflow do i need anything extra or is it a direct bolt on ??

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You already spent money on the Typhoon. Sell it on ebay or craigslist with no guarantee or use it as a doorstop. Put a stock intake on and call it a day.

Honestly the only one I'd spend my money on is the Bullitt intake, and it requires you buy a bunch of other parts to make it work, probably $1500 to $2K for everything. But it works, at least. And by "works" I mean 5-15 hp over the entire powerband, with 5 hp peak bump. The peak power gain is not exciting, but more power over the whole powerband is worth it. But it won't make your car a world-beater. It's simply proven better than stock. You can make the same kind of gains for less money with other parts.

Don't throw more money away looking for an intake manifold that will make a ton more power than the stock unit, it doesn't exist.

WOW!

My car put down 238rwhp/278rwtq with a K&N CAI and weld-in mufflers through an auto! There's something definitely ****ed up with your GT dude.