A 347 for my 65

Hey everyone. I've been toying with the idea of building a 347 Stroker for my 65 Fastback. I would like to build it myself, only, I haven't built an engine before. SO, it has been recommended to me by many people to buy a completed shortblock (already machined, balanced, and ready to go), and then build the top-half myself and learn as I go. I'm in no hurry, and this would be an on-going weekend project. And in a couple years, when its built, I'll retire the old 289 and put in my creation!! At least, that's the idea. Since the shortblock is the hardest part of the build, and I'm a quick learner, I figure this will be a real fun experience. And very satisfying in the end.
So, the big question. What's the best stroked crate shortblock out there to start with? There's FordStrokers, and then I was looking at Precision Race Engines. I was just talking with one of their guys. $2,300 for a 347 shortblock crate. Here are the specs:

Ford 302 block

* Thermal cleaned and shot peened
* Magnafluxed
* Bored & Power Stroke Honed (centered with mains)
* Align honed (main bore housing where crank goes)
* Decked for flat head surface
* Block machined clearanced for stroker crankshaft
* New Clevite cam bearings installed
* New Pioneer Brass freeze plugs installed
* New oil gally plugs installed
* Painted Color Choice

Rotating assembly

* Eagle "ESP" Cast Steel 3.400" stroke crankshaft
* Eagle I-beam 5.400" 5140 rods
* Clevite Rod & Main Bearings
* Speed Pro Hypereutectic Flat Top Pistons
* Hasting Molly rings
* All Rods & Pistons matched & machined to same weight (big & small ends as well as total weight)
* Rotating assembly balanced to race specs with printed spec sheet(.02 of oz. inch or within 2 grams)
* 28oz Harmonic Balancer
* 28oz Flexplate for Automatic

The guy said its capable of pulling 500hp. So, its got that going for it. What's everyone's opinion on this as a start to my build? And the Eagle crankshaft and the Eagle rods? Are they cutting corners or is this good stuff for the price?
 
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This project should not take you that long. As someone who just did this project, I would focus on getting everything together at the same time when you get the block back from the machine shop, get it assembled and in the car at the same time you are pulling out the old motor. Personally I had the machine shop put the rotating assembly together for me, that way I know it was correct (ring gap, cam degree), because the last thing I wanted to do was to mess up my new motor.

Here is a link to my project
http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/826430-my-65-engine-project-pics.html
 
Having blue-print assembled my own 333 block, I know what it takes to be precise in the assembly. My engine has held together through two 6 session Dyno runs. Quite frankly, I like the journey of assembling my own engines and the degreeing exercise. This being stated, I bought my rotating assembly from Ford Strokers and was treated very well. If I were to get lazy, I'd go back to F/S for a short block. I guess, because of my good experience.
Good Luck with your choice.
 
I'm in the middle of doing this right now myself. I'm a newb to building car motors as well. But I have built more than a few bike motors.

currently have my block out being machines and having the eagle rotating assembly installed. oncei get the short block back I'll be installing the AFR heads, edelbrok intake, holley carb, ed curtis custom cam etc. looks to be a fun project.
 
I also built my own. This is the second time around for me with this engine as the first one had a unsealable oil leak out of the rear main. I had a eagle cast crank but with an olded block with the 2 piece main seal. The best I could tell was that the new cranks do not have a oil slinger built in like the old cranks do. This is fine for a one piece seal and should still work with 2 piece seal but I had no luck. So I changed cranks to a steel unit I had from years past. It only has 3.375 stroke so it left the piston .012 in the hole and makes only 341 cu in. If you do it yourself, be aware that the rear main can be an issue with older blocks.
This engine is acually a very mild build with the exception of the cam. I found a used set of Canfield heads at a shop with a fresh rebuild on them for $800. It has dish pistons, when used with these heads and the steel crank only gave me 9.2/1 compression. I used a dual plan manifold (RPM Air Gap) and a 650 Mighty Demon. I called Scott Main at Cam Research and told him what I wanted and he ground up a solid lifter cam to match.
I was hoping for 400 hp and was very suprised to get 465 with this combo. With 10.5/1 and a single plane manifold, maybe a little different cam to take advantage of the added compression I am sure we would have been at the 500 mark.
I was suprised also by the carb size. On the dyno I expected some gains with a 750. All the builds you see in the magizines use a 750 or larger. The motor droped 2-3 hp with a couple different carbs (750 quick fuel and 800 Holley hp).
I'm not sure what the Dyno guy was lookin at but he said the the motor was not carb limited with the 650
 
do it yourself

ive always been into doing it yourself all of it. that way YOU know what was done some builders wil cut corners or go with "thats good enough" when if you do it you will MAKE CERTAIN that its done right and perfect measure every thing no mater how redundant sence ov accomplishment to sorry cant spell if you dont know what to do at some point ask or look online or go to local engine builders and ask. you will be proud in the end that you did it ALL yourself.
 
While it is satisfying to build your own motor, there is also a commitment in tools to consider. How often will you use the dial indicator, valve spring compressor, degree wheel, adjustable pushrods and high speed torque wrench after you are done? Plus, installing a top end is more of an easy weekend than years worth of labor. If you aren't going to be ready for the motor for that long, I'd hold off until you are like six months away from that point.