A/C Compressor Noise *Pic Inside*

Sounds like the compressor clutch is too tight. It should not spin at all unless you are running your air.

I know you can take off the clutch on it. You will need a pair of snap ring pliers to get off the snap ring. Then I believe there are shims that you can get to space it correctly. I know you get them if you have to replace the clutch assembly. Sometimes they are spaced close to the compressor and catch. If you ask at an autoparts store they should be able to show you.

Your a/c compressor clutch is definitely going out. Mine did the same exact thing yours is doing. If I remember correctly, a new clutch is around $60-80. You don't need to drain or depressurize the a/c.

You cannot bypass the AC pulley with a shorter belt. This would render the tensioner useless. You would have to take the compressor out and move the PS pump up top where it was. Depending on where you live and how you use the car, you may not want to do that. I would try to space that clutch out where its not turning the compressor.

there is a "range" indicator on the tensioner. as long as you are within range, your belt length is fine.

Dtowncats said:

Your a/c compressor clutch is definitely going out. Mine did the same exact thing yours is doing. If I remember correctly, a new clutch is around $60-80. You don't need to drain or depressurize the a/c.

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I have the same problem ac starts spining for a sec at idle then stops again. I always thought it was supposed to do that....now this brings up another question.....Do you guys think that the AC coming on and off like that would cause what feels like hesitation when Im gunning it? Like maybe the AC is turning on for a sec when I gun it and Im loosing power?

It only happens sometimes, Ill just nail it and as it climbs the car just like drops and accelerates much slower and doesnt come back to normal unless I come off the gas and hit it again sometimes.

The A/C clutch is about $100 new or you can buy a compressor from the junkyard with a working clutch for about $50. The puller is about $16 if you have to buy one, Autozone will rent you one for free.

The clutch hub is usually what fails, the rubber shock damper shears off from the steel hub and plate. The pulley turns, but the hub doesn't when you power up the A/C The hub comes off without much problem if you have the puller. You don’t have to do anything with the refrigerant (R12 or R134a), you can replace the clutch without draining and refilling the system.

A few simple electrical tests are advised before popping out the wallet to buy a clutch assembly. With the engine running, use a test light connected to the 2 wires on the A/C clutch harness to make sure you have voltage when you turn the A/C on. If the system is low on refrigerant, the clutch will not engage (safety feature, keeps you from burning up the compressor due to no oil). There is an aluminum canister on the firewall with a large hose leading to the A/C compressor. There is a pressure switch on it with a 2 wire connector: pull the connector off and jumper the wires. The compressor circuit will power up, and the test light will light if the electrical circuit is good. This test is also a good way to check the compressor & clutch if the system is low on refrigerant. You can jumper the wires and the compressor will turn if the clutch is good.

TheUser said:

I don't think that's your problem because at WOT (Wide Open Throttle), the A/C is shut off via an A/C Cut-off relay.

Now...If I were to find a used compressor, I would have to drain my refridgant and then fill it back up right? Might be cheaper/easier to just replace the clutch?

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You are right about having to drain/refill the system if you replace the compressor.

However, it is easy to rob the junkyard compressor of the clutch and be back in business very quickly. Most junkyards won't sell you just the clurch, only the whole compressor. Save $50 and get a spare compressor as part of the deal.