A/C compressor replacement questions

[danny04GT]

Well last night my A/C compressor went up in a massive cloud of black smoke and shreded my belt. I was able to put on an old belt and get her home with the A/C off.

I was looking at replacement parts and saw that the parts stores recommend replacing the Orifice tube and the Accumulator as well. Just wanted to see if you guys think its necessary or not. The accumulator is an additional $80. The orifice tube is like $5. Also any special tools required? I plan on replacing the compressor and taking it to a shop to refill the freon afterwards.

 

[BobHyatt]

Well last night my A/C compressor went up in a massive cloud of black smoke and shreded my belt. I was able to put on an old belt and get her home with the A/C off.

I was looking at replacement parts and saw that the parts stores recommend replacing the Orifice tube and the Accumulator as well. Just wanted to see if you guys think its necessary or not. The accumulator is an additional $80. The orifice tube is like $5. Also any special tools required? I plan on replacing the compressor and taking it to a shop to refill the freon afterwards.

Here's the nitty-gritty answer. It depends on what failed. If the compressor pully bearing failed, or the clutch itself failed, you don't need a new drier or orifice tube. Those are normally replaced if the clutch dies internally as it will produce metal pieces that can flow thru the system and block things up. Normally the orifice tube screen will already have lots of junk. And it is never a bad idea to replace the tube since it is cheap. The drier is a different animal. You probably should replace it, but you don't absolutely have to. But note that if you replace the entire compressor, the warranty will not be honored if you don't replace those parts.

 

[danny04GT]

... Those are normally replaced if the clutch dies internally as it will produce metal pieces that can flow thru the system and block things up.

Hmmm ... this may be my issue. Last summer my AC clutch went out and I replaced that. The bearings and field coil were burned up badly. This time around the AC clutch pully seems to spin freely while the AC is off. But the compressor is frozen and wont spin when the clutch engages.

From what your saying, it sounds like the first failure may have contaminated my AC system.

 

[SaleenGT2001]

i just replaced the AC compressor on my uncles Buick today. the bearing went out and i did not replace anything except the compressor. it is working just fine!

 

[chuck943]

As Bob said if u replace the compressor they recommend to replace the orffice tube,accumulator and any line with a manifold in it. If you do not then they will not warranty the compressor if it fails. They are really starting to enforce this now!!

 

[Hardtop68]

I don't know 2004 but 2000 orifice tube is inside the liquid line and cannot be removed (it is put inside the line, then the line is bent to shape)... 4seasons sells a fitting to modify the liquid line and make this kind of designs replaceable... I got the fitting and a new orifice tube ready for the next time I open the A/C system... otherwise you will have to buy the entire liquid line...

Regarding the drier, it is a good practice to replace it when replacing the compressor... also, the silica used to trap humidity saturates with time... nowadays, there are toyotas which drier is serviceable... it is opened, old silica discarded, cleaned and reloaded with new silica that comes in a bag with the right amount for the application...

 

[Hardtop68]

This is the fitting P/N 16150 (www.4s.com)

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C2O8IG

Check if it fits your car...

 

[BobHyatt]

Hmmm ... this may be my issue. Last summer my AC clutch went out and I replaced that. The bearings and field coil were burned up badly. This time around the AC clutch pully seems to spin freely while the AC is off. But the compressor is frozen and wont spin when the clutch engages.

From what your saying, it sounds like the first failure may have contaminated my AC system.

My previous post unfortunately mixed up clutch and compressor, too late at night. A clutch failure won't contaminate anything. A compressor failure can discharge metal particles into the freon and they will wash throughout the system.

But, if a clutch fails, it can produce mega-heat. And that heat primarily gets conducted away through the front of the compressor where the bearing rides, and through the compressor shaft. Which can overheat the front seal and cause a leak that can lose lots of the oil in the system. And that will certainly kill the compressor. If the compressor is frozen, you need to do the

 

[danny04GT]

That part is listed as fitting my car. Are you saying I would have to cut out the part of the line with the Orifice tube and install that piece ?

 

[Hardtop68]

That part is listed as fitting my car. Are you saying I would have to cut out the part of the line with the Orifice tube and install that piece ?

Yes, the instruction sheet tells how to do it... it is only two cuts with a small pipe cutter... I expect to install the new fitting and orifice tube next week... I will take pictures of the process...

I need this fitting because I bougth a variable orifice tube for extreme temperatures... I have got good feedback with these and I want to take it to the test myself... so I have to modify the liquid line anyway... if you will stick to the stock orifice tube, this fitting will also help during A/C system cleanout to actually clean the orifice tube screen as well even if you are not replacing it...

If a remember well, a new liquid line is $40... this fitting is $20 and you will need to buy only the orifice tube (cheap) afterwards...