A/C gurus: I broke the top a/c line (from compressor to condensor)...bandage it?

The A/C system will be OK - as long as you don't turn it on. Disconnect either the compressor clutch wiring at the compressor or the low pressure cutout switch on the accumulator by the heater plumbing. That will disable the compressor clutch power so that if the switch gets turned to cool or defrost, the compressor won't run.

A trip to the j/y and $10-$15 will get you a replacement line.

If the system remains open and uncapped, you will need to replace the accumulator/dyer assembly , cost is $75-$85. Because the dryer material soaks up moisture and can't be dried out, you can't use a junkyard part as a replacement.
See http://jrichker.stangnet.com/Mustang_tech/R134a_conversion/R134a_conversion.htm for the R134a Conversion & recharge help you'll need.

See
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=2435 for the A/C charging gauges you will need.

Here's some help on a cheap vacuum pump that you'll need for a recharge with R134A...
The electric refigerators all have a hermetic unit in them that makes an excellent el cheapo vacuum pump. First, find an old refrigerator that runs but has leaked all the Freon out. That way you don't have to worry about recovering the refrigerant. Then just cut the suction & pressure lines to remove the hermetic unit and bolt it to a board. I put a 1/4" flare fitting on the suction line, wire up the start capacitor and use an old computer power cord for the wire & plug. As you see from the picture I previously posted, it isn't anything fancy.

Keep 3 or 4 oz of R12/R22 compatible oil around to lube it up occasionally. As long as you use it only as a vacuum pump, you don't need to worry about getting the mineral oil lubricant mixed with the PAG or POE oil in the car's A/C system.

That same hose was completely missing from my car when I bought it. I don't think it was very expensive even for a new one. The part that connects to the condensor is a quick disconnect fitting like your fuel lines. Takes a speacial little tool to pop them loose.

5spd GT said:

Thanks Joe...good info

So what I'm going to do is tape it up and make sure it doesn't get turned on (disconnect the switch as well).

I'll then just unbolt the old hose and put on a new one right? As long as I don't turn on the system nothing negative will happen right?

I can still turn on the heater right?

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Everything will be Ok as long as you don't power up the compressor clutch.

Using the heater will be OK.

The Defroster uses the A/C to dry out the air, so make sure the compressor power is disconnected prior to using the defrost setting.

a/c pressure hose... any parts store or the junk yard

http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?mfrcode=FAA&mfrpartnumber=55703&parttype=665&ptset=A


Discharge Hose is the name. When I mentioned the quick disconnect tool I meant when you go to replace it the connection at tye condensor is quick disconnect and at the compressor it just bolts on as you know.

If the hose is truly torn and there is no refrigerant, you shouldn't even have to disconnect the LPCS (Low Pressure Cycling Switch) on top of the accumulator. The LPCS will not allow the system to engage when the low side is below 25PSI (stock R12 setting).

5spd GT said:

So is the accumulator bolted to the head? Not the condensor right...

Thanks for the link The Shape

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No problem. The accumaltor is the canister bolted on the fire wall next to the heater hoses. It's actually made onto the suction hose on our cars.http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?mfrcode=FAA&mfrpartnumber=55636&parttype=667&ptset=A I am no expert on A/C like Jrichker, but after having had to replace my, discharge hose, suction hose, and condensor after buying my car I am an expert on how expensive it can get.