A/C Heat Fan Selector Switch 75% Broken

marvinmycat

Founding Member
Feb 13, 2002
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Buffalo, NY
Hey Guys,

Before I tear into my dashboard, I wanted to get a little feedback first.

My fan selector switch with the five positions from "Low" to "High" only blows air when it is on "High." All of the other four lower fan speeds don't blow sh|t. :mad:

Any ideas on what's going on here? I'd just assume have the parts I need in hand if I will have to replace something, instead of driving around with a torn apart dash and sweating all over the leather seats! :(

Thanks in advance! :nice:
 
The low and medium speeds are achieved by switching resistors in series with the blower motor. In the high speed position, the resistor assembly is completely bypassed. There is also a thermal circuit breaker incorporated into the resistor assembly.
While your switch might be bad, I've seen the resistor assemblies fail a lot more often. It is mounted on the plactic duct just above the blower motor and has a 4 pin connector. You can get to it by removing the glove box. Test with an onmmeter. With the connector removed, there should be a resistance reading from each of the 4 pins to the other 3.
 
n0v8or said:
The low and medium speeds are achieved by switching resistors in series with the blower motor. In the high speed position,.... blah blah blah... onmmeter. With the connector removed, there should be a resistance reading from each of the 4 pins to the other 3.

that was the single most straight forward answer i think i have ever heard on these boards, ty n0v8or!
 
n0v8or said:
The low and medium speeds are achieved by switching resistors in series with the blower motor. In the high speed position, the resistor assembly is completely bypassed. There is also a thermal circuit breaker incorporated into the resistor assembly.
While your switch might be bad, I've seen the resistor assemblies fail a lot more often. It is mounted on the plactic duct just above the blower motor and has a 4 pin connector. You can get to it by removing the glove box. Test with an onmmeter. With the connector removed, there should be a resistance reading from each of the 4 pins to the other 3.
You beat me to it!!! :rolleyes: This happens to my friends dodge all the time. Dodges are prone to that little box going out. I think it was like 50 bucks a pop to replace it. That is definetly whats causing the problem. And like he said. just pop your glove box out, no need to take the dash out. Good luck. :nice:
 
I'll probably start with the resistors, then move back to the switch. I've had the center console so many times, I'm sure the structural integrity isn't what it used to be.

As always, I'll post back as to what the problem was.

Thanks again, guys.