Anthony, do you have a means of seeing pressures? Seeing both is great but just low side pressure would be nice (read: minimal)
I would test your in and out voltage at the LPS. If the switch doesnt close, there can be [another] bad switch or more likely, low system charge (see the importance of the above paragraph).
If the switch is ok and closes when the AC is on, I would move on to the next paragraph.
I'm not sure how your WOT (Wide Open Throttle) relay situation is like (you have something akin to a CCRM as I recall, and it might be in there). On fox III's (a separate WOT relay housed under the MAF) and 94-95's (WOT housed in the CCRM), both can be problematic. On foxes, the wires vulcanize badly, which can result in a lack of continuity, or a relay which engages when it should not. The relay is normally at rest, only being energized when at WOT. The relay is energized by a ground pulse from the computer.
Some quick testing will really get ya rolling as to which direction ya need to go.
Good luck Anthony.
I would test your in and out voltage at the LPS. If the switch doesnt close, there can be [another] bad switch or more likely, low system charge (see the importance of the above paragraph).
If the switch is ok and closes when the AC is on, I would move on to the next paragraph.
I'm not sure how your WOT (Wide Open Throttle) relay situation is like (you have something akin to a CCRM as I recall, and it might be in there). On fox III's (a separate WOT relay housed under the MAF) and 94-95's (WOT housed in the CCRM), both can be problematic. On foxes, the wires vulcanize badly, which can result in a lack of continuity, or a relay which engages when it should not. The relay is normally at rest, only being energized when at WOT. The relay is energized by a ground pulse from the computer.
Some quick testing will really get ya rolling as to which direction ya need to go.
Good luck Anthony.