A Few Misc. Questions and TKO swap

HGFireHazard

Member
Apr 10, 2005
460
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17
Michigan
I started my TKO swap yesterday and it's been interesting so far, but because of hang ups and problems I still have yet to even get the driveshaft off. Here is what I have for questions.

For those that have the UPR smog delete and a vortech, did you have to buy a new serpentine belt? For some reason after putting it in the belt touches itself to the right of the tensioner, when obviously it didn't before.

How the hell did you guys undo the thermactor tubing to the back of the heads! Maybe it's the long tubes that are getting in my way from the bottom, but I can see no way of getting them out from the top. I figure I can wait until I pull the tranny and do it then, but I'm curious.

Do you guys use a swivel on the driveshaft bolts? I can't get a standard socket/drive wrench on, and a combination wrench doesn't give me enough torque to break them free. I didn't have a swivel tonight otherwise I would have tried, just curious.

Those with the MM adjustable cable setup (with at least their OEM style cable and firewall adjuster), do you have any problems with the cable coming out of the adjuster? The cable is so dang tight and unflexible that it doesn't stay in all the way. It came rolled up fairly decently so I'm hoping it will relax a bit now that isn't anymore. It may help once I hook it up to the quadrant and get everything together too, just curious again.

I am hoping to stop having these little issues, and I really hope I don't have that dreaded vibration after all is said and done. It doesn't help that I've been working at night, but it's all the time I have right now until Tuesday. I'll keep updating this thread if I have more question along with progress and such.

By the way, it only took me 5 minutes to undo the nuts on my exhaust pieces, but it took dang near an hour to get the pipe out! I've never seen a pipe wedged so tightly into muffler. I had my feet pushing on the mufflers and my hands pulling on the - part of the H, and doing every other thing. Jeesh, pictures to come once things start looking pretty. Thanks guys.
 
smog delete: if the belt is touching something then you need to get a smaller belt.
thermactor: i assume that is the tubing that attaches to the back of both heads and went to the smog pump. i was able to get back there with a wrench.
driveshaft bolts: one of the hardest things to break loose. i use a shallow 3/8 drive socket with an extension into an adaptor to 1/2 drive ratchet. and if that isn't enough, get yourself a piece of pipe to slide on the end of the ratchet to give some more leverage.
MM cable: it should unwind a bit being out.
 
Made some more progress tonight, but the T5 isn't out yet. I was able to get the driveshaft out without a single issue once I realized I could fit an extension I have up to my 2 foot breaker and it all went well. I drained the T5, pulled the stock shifter off, and spent well over an hour getting the starter off.

The bottom bolt was cake, the top bolt made me wish I was throwing my head through the garage door. Is there any way with long tubes to not need to use a decent length extension and go up and over the starter from the bottom? I was removing that bolt 1 click at a time. Other than that I should be pulling the transmission tomorrow. I have a Pilot Bearing puller, some grease, and hopefully every other thing I need to make this right. Well, I need washers for the top bolts, but that's no sweat.

Pics will be coming, I promise!
 
Nope, I opted for just the Tremec Aluminum one. I know Paul (KillerCanary) had tons of problems with his transmission swap after not indexing the bell, but from what I've read about people who got the Tremec bellhousing they didn't have much of a problem. If I get a vibration my first thing to do will be to get a driveshaft spacer. I got my stuff from www.bieberfever.com (and they did a great job of hooking me up, Mike, Tom, and Aaron helped me a lot) and they said that the slip yoke has plenty of spline contact area and you don't need one. I think they said that the 96+ FR driveshafts have a longer slip yoke than ours stock, and I will prove/disprove that when I measure them tomorrow. Other than that, I got some pics.

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I was looking at the clutch disc and was thinking that it looked in really good shape considering the car has 56k on the clock, so I wonder if this is a relatively new clutch? I had a little trouble with the passenger side transmission crossmember bolt as the head appeared to be stripping, but I luckily hammered a socket onto it and got it out. I used the pilot bearing puller and slide hammer from Autozone and I got it out in less than 5 seconds, I seriously recommend it to anyone over trying to displace it out with grease. The trickflow thermactor plugs ended up being a waste of money, I couldn't get them in and I didn't want to screw around so I just cut off part of the thermactor tube and turned it around like I've heard of many other people doing. Other than that, I hope to have things up and running tomorrow night, but we'll see what trouble I can get into tomorrow.
 

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