My car handles awesome with the rear grip setup from MM and I improved the camber and the front. I'd say I could out handle most vettes out there. And also pull at least a G if not more. With an adjustable rear sway bar and the MM front tubular setup and coilovers I'd say I'd be hard to keep up with. This car already pulls so hard that if your in the passenger seat you better hang on seeing as there isn't a racing seat or 5 point harness. I'm more then impressed with the handling of my notch.
Man, its an adrenaline rush, you'll want to do it again and again. And it'll give you a much better perspective on what the car needs upgrading the most compared to normal street driving. I don't want to buy new tires before next year, so I might just go once more for a couple laps this year. Next year if all goes according to plan I'll be testing-out the new engine/tranny setup as well as a MM PHB and torque arm setup, FL subframes, 6-point rollcage, tubular A-arms and K-member, and probably front coilovers. And of course, a good set of racing seats and 5-point harness. Its gonna be a sexual experience.
the keys in our suspension are: caster camber plates, and a panhard bar. those two items alone will do more for your car than any other mod. put some springs and shocks/struts and you will have a decent car. you will still notice the engineering faults in our cars, but it will be much better and far more predictable.
i have mm offset front control arms, cc plates, coilovers, tockico illumina 5way shocks/struts, weight jacker lca's, stock upper lca's, hpm phb, st front sway bar, 00 r brembos, 17/18x9 steeda ultralite 1's and my car is just now what i would consider a capable machine. you are looking at about $3-5k for something along those lines. i can hang corners with M3's and launch(with drag radials) right along side an awd car. there is hope, but it just takes alot of money.
I am just curious though, what do you have your alignment angles set at? I currently have the caster set to factory specs, and camber set to 0* on both sides and to .10* on both sides If you really suggest the caster/camber plates really make that big of a difference I might consider that after my drop and brakes upgrade. I have been considering some FRPP HD UCA's for the rear and FRPP front LCA's
i run 6.2 deg pos caster and 1.2 neg camber. i would not suggest running that much caster without a bumpsteer kit though. our cars need caster more than anything.
save the $ on the uca's and just buy stock replacements. the front control arms are kind of a waste too, save the bucks till you can buy coilovers and a quality tubular job.
To tell you the truth, our cars aren't that bad either. Yeah there is body roll when taking turns fast, but I think they are pretty balanced. Like in an emergency (dumb bitch cutting me off) I can cut the wheel pretty hard and it goes where it needs to go.
My sister's civic for instance, I have to use both hands when I'm steering. With the stang, I can use 1 hand. I don't know, maybe cause it's fwd. But the stang handles better than the civic.
the problem with FF is they were made to understeer from the factory. when you get a FF sideways it isnt exactly a gas pedal away from regaining control.
i thought camber from factory on almost all vechiles on the front tires is between .5-.1 negative degrees . i know general rule is some negative camber is suppose to be good handling and u dont really want to run 0 degrees
i thought camber from factory on almost all vechiles on the front tires is between .5-.1 negative degrees . i know general rule is some negative camber is suppose to be good handling and u dont really want to run 0 degrees
the main problem with camber on our cars is our lack of caster. i belive it is any where below 3.5 deg pos caster that your camber will actually turn positive when you turn the wheel. this is just one reason why cc plates help us out so much. get your caster up to about five and you will see a great deal more camber on turn in which allows you to run less static camber.