A Good Combination!

Roger Ramjet · Nov 18, 2007

I did a 3.89 gear change, an aluminum flywheel, and a SCT tune all at the same time on my '05 GT 5 speed. I also raised the idle RPM to 1000 to quicken the engine accel at the touch of the throttle. The engine does accel/decel much quicker. And, the RPM falls quicker between shifts - no more RPM hangup going up to the next gear.

I am VERY satisfied with the performance improvement but the factory tires are hating it - tire spin on demand in the first 2 gears.

SpartaPerformance · Nov 18, 2007

Taller gears means mor torque multiplication. A rear suspension and a pinion angle adjustment would be a good idea and should get some sticky tires.

fobra559 · Nov 18, 2007

A new Driveshaft too maybe. The ones for the S197's are pricey though

anticubicle · Nov 18, 2007

Grats! Your sig is very vague on your mods but I'll say before you even bother with a driveshaft or any other stuff go for Lower Control Arms and Adjustable Upper Control Arm!!

fobra559 · Nov 18, 2007

anticubicle said:
Grats! Your sig is very vague on your mods but I'll say before you even bother with a driveshaft or any other stuff go for Lower Control Arms and Adjustable Upper Control Arm!!

Yeah, LCA's and UCA's sound good to me. Sucks that the DS's are expensive though

Roger Ramjet · Nov 18, 2007

This is my street car - not a race car. Don't think I'll be doing anything else except tires.

Roger Ramjet · Nov 18, 2007

Got a 900 HP street legal GMC S-15 Blazer for a race car.

fobra559 · Nov 18, 2007

Roger Ramjet said:
This is my street car - not a race car. Don't think I'll be doing anything else except tires.

Whoops, sounded like the way you were going with the combo it was going to be a race car How about a simple CAI or an exhaust before you call it quits after the new tires?

fobra559 · Nov 18, 2007

Roger Ramjet said:
Got a 900 HP street legal GMC S-15 Blazer for a race car.

Roger Ramjet · Nov 18, 2007

The steroids that my Mustang got started when the local Ford dealer sent me an invitation to check out their new Roush Mustangs. My '05 was stock except for the Steeda exhaust that it got a week after I took delivery in late 2004.

I drove the Roush about 25 miles then disappointed the salesman when I told him I wasn't interested in the car because the car did not impress me. I told him that I could make a regular Mustang GT run that good for the street with a gear change, an aluminium flywheel, and a set of performance mufflers. Then I had to prove it to myself while I saved 20 few thousand dollars the deal would have cost me.

kooldawg6 · Nov 18, 2007

Roger Ramjet said:
This is my street car - not a race car. Don't think I'll be doing anything else except tires.

The driveshaft will drop a bunch more rotational mass and your RPMs will climb faster yet

Roger Ramjet · Nov 18, 2007

An aluminum flywheel is a lot better way to reduce rotating mass than the aluminum driveshaft - and it will last longer.

Towelly · Nov 18, 2007

Roger Ramjet said:
An aluminum flywheel is a lot better way to reduce rotating mass than the aluminum driveshaft - and it will last longer.

What? ... This statement confuses me... I understand that the flywheel is a better way to reduce rotating mass and why. But lasts longer? Last time I checked you have to machine that flywheel with a new clutch install, once you have a driveshaft installed you don't have to do anything to it....

stangdude2000 · Nov 18, 2007

Only bad thing about an aluminum driveshaft is that it twists more under load which slows down responsiveness slightly, but its still a vast improvement over stock. How about carbon fiber?

fobra559 · Nov 19, 2007

kooldawg6 said:
The driveshaft will drop a bunch more rotational mass and your RPMs will climb faster yet

Indeed it does my friend

fobra559 · Nov 19, 2007

Roger Ramjet said:
The steroids that my Mustang got started when the local Ford dealer sent me an invitation to check out their new Roush Mustangs. My '05 was stock except for the Steeda exhaust that it got a week after I took delivery in late 2004.

I drove the Roush about 25 miles then disappointed the salesman when I told him I wasn't interested in the car because the car did not impress me. I told him that I could make a regular Mustang GT run that good for the street with a gear change, an aluminium flywheel, and a set of performance mufflers. Then I had to prove it to myself while I saved 20 few thousand dollars the deal would have cost me.

Just goes to show, the name ROUSH is worth a couple more thousands.

Roger Ramjet · Nov 19, 2007

The Fidenza aluminum flywheel that I bought has a bolted on steel friction plate for clutch contact. It should wear as well as the steel unit at 1/3 the weight.

Roger Ramjet · Nov 19, 2007

There are several reasons, in my mind, to not use a light driveshaft. The light materials fatigue and break more quickly, they are more easily damaged from contact, the riveted connections between the tubes and the steel yolks tend to loosen over time, and they cost a lot more. I'll stick with the steel driveshaft.

ranger04 · Nov 19, 2007

Instead of either, or, why not just use them both? An aluminum DS and flywheel should let the motor really sing.

stangdude2000 · Nov 19, 2007

Roger Ramjet said:
There are several reasons, in my mind, to not use a light driveshaft. The light materials fatigue and break more quickly, they are more easily damaged from contact, the riveted connections between the tubes and the steel yolks tend to loosen over time, and they cost a lot more. I'll stick with the steel driveshaft.

Fatigue really isn't an issue in street cars. First, there is no fatigue failure associated with carbon fiber. Second, most of the aftermarket aluminum driveshafts are larger diameter (most I've seen are 3.5 inches instead of 3 for the steel driveshafts), so that helps offset the fatigue issue. At the torque we are running, its not nearly an issue. Even if you were transmitting 400 ft-lbs of torque through the driveshaft, it would take far more than a billion full throttle starts for the driveshaft to fail due to fatigue. I don't know the wall thicknesses of these driveshafts, but the stresses the driveshaft is put under (with 400 ft-lbs of RWTQ) would worst case would be about half of the stress level required for fatigue failure at one billion cycles. Keep in mind, when you do a less than full throttle start (say all half throttle starts), the number of cycles before fatigue failure would SIGNIFICANTLY increase.

A Good Combination!

Roger Ramjet

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fobra559

At least it's more erect and not floppy anymore.

anticubicle

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At least it's more erect and not floppy anymore.

Roger Ramjet

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fobra559

At least it's more erect and not floppy anymore.

fobra559

At least it's more erect and not floppy anymore.

Roger Ramjet

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kooldawg6

mine works really well and can take a fair amount

Roger Ramjet

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Towelly

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fobra559

At least it's more erect and not floppy anymore.

fobra559

At least it's more erect and not floppy anymore.

Roger Ramjet

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A Good Combination!

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At least it's more erect and not floppy anymore.

At least it's more erect and not floppy anymore.

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mine works really well and can take a fair amount

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At least it's more erect and not floppy anymore.

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