A lil help here please....

GeLsTaNg215

New Member
Dec 7, 2004
80
0
0
Philly, PA
Well if its not one thing its the other. I finally installed a horn on my car after a full year of being hornless lol. Now im all happy I got my horn fixed and goto store and come back and waa laa! another problem. My driver side window wont come down now. This poses a big problem because i dont have A/C and this is my DD. Its wierd though because the passenger window will still come down using the driver side window switch. I havent gotten a chance to look into it yet because it happened right as I was leaving for vacation. What things could I look for that would cause just the driver side window to not have any power but the passenger side still work using same switch? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. :flag:
 
we had that problem with my friends '91, it ended up being the switch itself, you could always break out the multimeter and ck voltage at the window motor as opposed to spending money before finding out what's wrong with it...

the switch is cake to change though, just pull the plate from the armrest, and wiggle the switch back and forth and it should come away from the assembly..
 
yeah, they suck a little to change out...they're not too bad though, just have some patience and hold your tongue the right way, and it'll come out fine. i've pulled my passenger side out before just find out that it was good...
 
Well I havent really had a chance to take apart my door panel yet with my work schedrule. But all of sudden today out of no where after cursing and giving the window the finger lol it rolled down and then when I got home it rolled back up. So I was like sweet, but then I get into my car tonight to goto work and bam! it wont roll down again :fuss: So im kinda thinking it might be the switch because i just remembered a couple of times it wouldnt roll down the passenger side window either until i hit the passenger side switch then it would work. Any suggestions after these new observations? :shrug:
 
the motors are iffy..... sometimes it will roll down and sometimes u have to bang on the door panel for it to roll down hahaha

but its cuz the resistance is too much sometimes for the weak old motor to push the window down/up
 
Ok, I finally got a chance to take a look at everything and I have the door panel off now. the switch works fine I tested them. So I tried what I read on another post about tapping the window motor and it actually started working but then stopped again. So what would the probelm be if tapping the motor makes it go down? need help asap im in the middle of trying to fix now. :flag:
 
theres a limit switch in the window, normally they freeze full up or full down, and if the contacts don't touch, it won't go anywhere...if you can swing it, just replace the motor...also, ck the connector before you do anything, the least little bit of corrosion will cause it to not operate properly
 
some of the parts stores carry them in stock, not all though...

edit: sorry didn't answer your first question...inspecting the motor really won't net you much, since it's an electic motor and gears, the only thing you can really do, is jumper 12v to it, and inspect the gears for slop and wear...
 
One can get new gears for the inside of it. IIRC front window motors are not hard to come by for not too much money, as are rebuild parts (as opposed to rear vert window motors, which are hard to find and parts are nill).

Tx, more info on the limit switch thing please. I never knew stangs had one - hence the use of a CB (to accomodate a load if someone keeps the button pressed for too long, like a little kid).

I know if I hold the button down longer than the window takes to go down, it keeps a heavy load on the electrical system, as if the mechanical stops are hold the window from going further, though the motor is trying to keep going.

I was not sure if that was general automotive info or stang specific.
 
honestly, i'm probably talkin out my rear, i know i ran into the same problem that he has in the past, and it only seemed to freeze in either the full up or full down position, never anywhere in between-which i thought was peculiar...that's the only thing that led me to that conclusion...and please keep in mind here, I also work on $300mil acft (now a QA inspector), and alot of the pieces on those things somehow burn that type of thinking into my brain...but really-more than likely not a limit switch, more of a armature contact issue i'd bet

on the flip side, all i did was pull the motor from mine, ck it, and lo and behold the damn thing worked, so i reinstalled it, and never had a problem with it since...
 
Tex thanks for the info. :nice: I know what you mean - I do the work on many cars (of all makes/models. no planes though :D ) and I cant keep anything straight.
I do know some cars have limiter switches (seems prevelant on cars with newer 'one touch' buttons for rolling the window down with a momentary touch. But not all of them).
I just did not remember that on a stang (which certainly meant I could have missed it).

As a slightly related aside, the motors in 94-95's eat the gears all the time (I keep a spare cluster in the garage). Someone recently joked that they thought the gears were made from glue sticks. :lol:
 
I had a huge problem with all of the switches working when they wanted to on my driverside door. Door locks too. After chasing the problem for a few days I found that the wires where they enter the car from the car were really hard and had broken. Sometimes when I would shut the door it would connect a wire and the window would work. I cut out the ugly parts and spliced it all back together. Might be worth checking into. Since the d/s door is always opening and closing it gets more use than the p/s door.
 
txstang84 said:
honestly, i'm probably talkin out my rear, i know i ran into the same problem that he has in the past, and it only seemed to freeze in either the full up or full down position...

txstang84, you might have been thinking of the circuit breaker inside the motor that is supposed to trip if the motor is held in the UP or DOWN position for too long.