^ don't listen to this guy. I'd trust the on track research conducted by MM anyday over what you have to say... no offense...
is this too low for you?
It's all good. I'm not offended. I just don't agree with the common misconception about upgrading the uppers in a fox mustang...
I'm not an MM hater though. If I had gone the roadrace route with my car, I probably would've used all MM suspension. Griggs is nice, but VERY pricey.
I canceled that crap after they advertised grantelli products as being the best out there^^Good point. It's not like that Sharad guy is a contributing editor at 5.0 Mustang Magazine that has been into mustangs for decades.
I canceled that crap after they advertised grantelli products as being the best out there
^^Good point. It's not like that Sharad guy is a contributing editor at 5.0 Mustang Magazine that has been into mustangs for decades.
It's all good. I'm not offended. I just don't agree with the common misconception about upgrading the uppers in a fox mustang...
I'm not an MM hater though. If I had gone the roadrace route with my car, I probably would've used all MM suspension. Griggs is nice, but VERY pricey.
The main goal is to achieve a better look. The secondary goal is to have a more rounded car that will handle the twisties like it should without giving up too much at the drag strip (where it normally goes).
If you do rear control arms, do not skimp out and just do the lowers. When I put my UPR suspension in my car, I just did the lowers at first and yes it was a huge difference over stock. Then one day I decided to quit being lazy and did the uppers. I noticed a HUGE difference. It was almost the same difference I notcied when I swapped out the stock lowers.
What suspension are you running? That car sits PERFECT imho.
That's fine but it depends on what you're upgrading too. The OP wants to do the Strip and have fun in the Turns. Adding Urethane, even more so in the upper arms creates more bind. Sure it's better than rubbers if you go straight, but that's not only what he wants.
I canceled that crap after they advertised grantelli products as being the best out there
I could care less if you're Carrol Shelby, Barack Obama, Henry Ford, or a magazine editor. The fact is if the OP intended on building a car with the sole purpose of running the best 1/4 mile possible I would have recommended UCA's w/ poly or spherical bushings, perhaps even adjustable UCA's. However, Will said the following:
Sounds to me like he wants a well rounded car that handles the twisties AND is capapable of running well at the strip. In that case, UCA's should NOT be considered because when he would be running through the twisties his suspension will bind and be prone to snap oversteer not to mention potential damage to the torque boxes.
BTW you said had you designed your car to be a road race car you would have gone with all MM products. Do you realize they don't even sell aftermarket UCA'srather they just sell the Ford factory replacements
People frequently regurgitate that same mantra about the upper control arms binding... but my own personal experience (as well as what Stumbaugh mentioned above) has proven that a quality set of uppers & lowers tremendously improves the overall handling of the car, not just straight line acceleration.
In my experience, upper & lower control arms with polyurethane bushings acheive those goals.
If he's worried about snap oversteer he should install a panhard bar.
If he's worried about torque box damage he should install torque box reinforcement plates. However, he said he didn't want to spend a lot of money, so I'd say those UPR Control arms for $199 with a lifetime guarantee are one of the most cost effective suspension mods he can make!
Thanks for the education.
You know, I actually typed that out last night, but I deleted it for the reason I posted above. (the part about Steve not saying anything derogatory about any of our advertisers) It's ironic that you and I both tried to use the same fact to prove our opposing viewpoints. My take on it is that OF COURSE MM doesn't want you to run upper control arms. They want you to buy their torque arm and panhard bar!!
If the car in your avatar is yours, it looks to me like you spend most of your time on the 1/4 or 1/8th mile track and not much time road racing. Therefore, as I said earlier UCA's and LCA's are necessary and will improve performance at the drag strip.
UCA's and LCA's will improve track performance, but handling will be slightly compromised and you run the risk of damaging the torque boxes.
A PHB added to a car that is running aftermarket UCA's and LCA's actually exasterbates the suspension binding problem and increases the liklihood of ruining the torque boxes.
The real issue here is that the 4 link suspension in and of itself is a bad design. A watts link or PHB/TA set up is much more forgiving when handling on a road course or on the street. That said, the stock UCA's rubber bushings allow for that necessary flex that the 4-link rear by design doesn't really allow.
Exactly, cost for him is an issue.
Sorry to derail Will, I hate being the guy telling the other guy how to spend his money. Do what you want with your car, I can't wait to see how she looks when you finally get all of your suspension installed. Let me know if you have any questions.
The shop I'm getting to do my alignment is also going to do my tires. I'm just going to leave the worn out tires on it right now on, do the suspension, then drive the 120 miles to the alignment shop. That way, I'll have a ton of new suspension work, new tires, and an alignment at the same time. Should make for a totally different car!
4. I'm probably going to stick with what I have on the list for now. When the time/money comes, I'll do SFCs, LCAs, and at least the bushings in the UCAs. Only thing I still haven't decided is whether to use the spacer included in the Steeda ball joint kit. I want it raked just a little, not an inch or two lower in the front than the rear.
People frequently regurgitate that same mantra about the upper control arms binding...
You know what they say about opinions right?but my own personal experience (as well as what Stumbaugh mentioned above) has proven that a quality set of uppers & lowers tremendously improves the overall handling of the car, not just straight line acceleration.
What do you think I make this stuff up? That's the thing about Advertisers, they can say what they want because they pay your bills.I'm truly sorry to hear that we've lost you as a subscriber. We like to share our passion for Mustangs with as many people as possible.
However, I'm certain that your granatelli comment is an exaggeration. Steve Turner wouldn't risk offending anyone by calling one company's product "the best out there."
Itake on it is that OF COURSE MM doesn't want you to run upper control arms. They want you to buy their torque arm and panhard bar!!
Exactly what I was saying. Thanks for the info!
That car does look good. Reminds me of a car I featured in 5.0 Mustang a few months ago:
^^UPR Pro Series suspension front and rear. That's a very smooth and comfortable street/strip car. (runs low 9s in the quarter)
It's not people, it real people who tracked their cars, tested out products, learned the hard way..
...real racing companies (not UPR)...
What am I, chopped liver? I started working on Fox Mustangs 25 years ago, before I could legally drive. I've been racing Mustangs for 19 yrs. I've owned over 30 of them. I've drag raced, road raced, and autocrossed them. When I give advice, I reference my own personal experience, not what I heard from someone else.
They also have countless one time customers who received junk parts, that hasn't changed. But anyway the reference was to OT/Autox, not 'knuckle dragging straight liners'UPR Products has won countless championships. You'll be hard pressed to find a suspension company with a better record. I supposed you're disqualifying their racing pedigree because they're knuckle dragging straight liners?
Sneaky98gt...... whoa, whoa, whoa, lol. You have a blower on your car? You also run it down the track, and you DO NOT have subframes already??????? Full length subframe connectors should be the FIRST mod you do!
I understand that they stiffen the car up, and I don't doubt it one bit that it makes the car 'feel' better, but what exactly does that 'feel' feel like? haha, I hope I made sense there.
You made perfect sense.... the feel is like when you plant the pedal she just jumps off the line in a very linear fashion... w/o SFC's it seems like the body winds up first before moving forward if that makes sense
I also really notice it when going over bumps or up a driveway. The car just feels much more solid and attached firmly to the pavement
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