AC not working neither is cooling fan.

[98bluevert]

Please help. AC not working at all and my cooling fan is not working. I checked all fuses and then tested the plug for the cooling fan. The ground side of the plug was sort of melted. With the engine running and hot the middle plug has 12.5v ground has 3.5v(don't think thats right) and the other plug has no voltage with car running, hot, and MAX AC on. Please need advice on what to check or test now.

 

[Kilgore Trout]

AC is too hard to work on, you should take it to a shop.

 

[COramprat]

Do you have a Haynes? There is a step by step to determine if the fan is bad.

With the car warm, you should have battery voltage (12.5) at the red/orange (low speed fan) wire and, with the AC on MAX, have bttery voltage at the orange/light blue (high speed fan). On the ground side, probe the black terminal and the other probe to chassis ground. Should read no more than 5 ohms. If it doesn't trace the wire from the Constant Control Relay Module to the chassis for breaks. I'm betting where the ground side is sort of melted may be your problem.

 

[COramprat]

AC is too hard to work on, you should take it to a shop.

 

[Kilgore Trout]

Well, for me anyway

 

[98bluevert]

where does the ground come off the ccrm at. I tried probing the groung for ohms but since there is melted plastic there it would not stay constant. would go down to 15 for a split second then back up like there not connected.

As for the AC i plan on taking it to a shop but if the problems are realatd then there is no need for me to take it to the shop.

 

[98bluevert]

Here are some pics


http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/figgy_1984/album?.dir=/48d3scd

pics taken with camera phone

 

[COramprat]

That seems to be your problem then...at the ground. Try to see if you can get it stable enough to get a good reading. If not you may have to replace the connector...I had to do that on my alternator when the connector melted after the voltage regulator went kablooey. You would be cutting the old connector off and putting on a new one. My concern would be why the connetor is melted.

The CCRM has the high and low speed fan relays as well as the AC relay. If you are having problems with the AC and the fan it could be the CCRM. It could be a bad relay taht caused the connector on the fan to melt at the ground.

 

[COramprat]

Here are some pics


http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/figgy_1984/album?.dir=/48d3scd

pics taken with camera phone

Must be drawing too much current and causing the it to melt. What color wire are you getting each of the reading at?



EDIT...OK I see where you said the connector is melted too. The 3.6 volts isn't normal. The relay is probably causing the problem and that isn't anything you can check yourself...according to the manuel.

 

[98bluevert]

the pics are bad pics but the ground right 3.5 volts with car running hot. Red/orange wire has 12.5-12.6 then the other has no voltage ever.

 

[98bluevert]

how much is a ccrm and cooling motor?

 

[COramprat]

If you have no voltage at the orange/light blue then that high speed relay is probably bad. It is inside the CCRM and it is located inside of the splash sheild on the right fenderwell.

I don't know how much they are but I bet it aint cheap. The fan may be OK if it wasn't damaged by any current overload.

I'd suggest picking up the Haynes first and going through that first. I'd hate to ahve missed something and you spend money on something that didn't work.

If anything you can go to the shop for a fix and have an idea of what you are talking about. I've found that helps so you don't get a screwing with repairs.

 

[98bluevert]

will the haynes manual tell me how to check the ccrm?? Are the relays removable where i can test them if so how do i test a relay. Also can i jump the fan terminals to the battery to see if it works?

 

[COramprat]

The only thing it has to check for is power to the CCRM. Since you have power to the fan then that isn't the problem. Testing the sealed CCRM is left up to a shop.

 

[98bluevert]

tested the fan by jumping it to the battery and it worked. so my fan motor is not bad. i believe it is a bad ground but not sure as to where the ground goes to. Didn't have time today to check that.

 

[COramprat]

tested the fan by jumping it to the battery and it worked. so my fan motor is not bad. i believe it is a bad ground but not sure as to where the ground goes to. Didn't have time today to check that.

I'd have to agree...

...but I would wonder why the connection gets hot enough to melt. Could be a bad relay on the high speed side causing an over voltage. No way to check it according to the manuel other than bringing it to Ford...so they say. The CCRM is sealed and apparently not able to be tested under the shade tree.

 

[Mike97gt]

your problem is the ground.. you should not have 3.5 volts left over after the fan motor on the ground side..

check ground 103 it's located in the rh side of the engine compartment. there is also one splice between the fan motor and the ground.. you can try to test this by running a wire from the connector to a known good ground and then take readings... you should have 0 volts on the ground side.

 

[Kilgore Trout]

your problem is the ground.. you should not have 3.5 volts left over after the fan motor on the ground side..

check ground 103 it's located in the rh side of the engine compartment. there is also one splice between the fan motor and the ground.. you can try to test this by running a wire from the connector to a known good ground and then take readings... you should have 0 volts on the ground side.

You said that from memory didn't you?

 

[98bluevert]

first off thanks for the info it's helped alot. Now can i splice into the ground wire on the fan plug then plug it into the fan or will this screw something up. Like the ccrm or something.

 

[COramprat]

Mike can back me up but I believe if you just get a good ground you should be OK with splicing it. I would think the CCRM would already be grounded on it's own.