I just got the engine back together. On the AFPR, which screw is the adjustment screw? There is an allen key stud on top w, a nut, a vaccum line on the side w/ a nut, and a 1/4" NPT fitting w/ a nut. Which do i turn to bump/lowwer fuel pressure?
Michael Yount said:Surprised you haven't figured it out - the way you've described it there's only one thing you can adjust. Loosen the nut - turn the allen screw til the gauge reads what you want (38-39 psig with vacuum line off and plugged at warm idle) and then tighten the nut to lock the allen screw in place.
Michael Yount said:psig - pounds per square inch GAUGE, as compared to psia - pounds per square inch ABSOLUTE (add ambient pressure to the gauge reading)
It'll probably start with 20 psig. But try to run it very hard and you won't have enough fuel. My buddy did a 5.0 conversion on another Volvo and accidentally got the in-tank primer pump wired up, but not the main in-line fuel pump. He was getting about 25 psig. The car actually ran good 80% of the time - but anytime he got into it for a bit, drivability issues showed up because it was running out of fuel. Problem solved when he wired in the in-line pump and got the pressure up to about 40 - psiG.
Sorry if I missed it (just tell me where) but what is the car doing? IMHO if the dizzy had been stabbed 180* out, you would know it. But we (or I) dont know what the issue is.Scorcher2005 said:ok, well, its up to around 40 psi...still no luck. I think some spark plug wires may not be clicked on all the way. Ill have to check tomorrow. Other than that, the only thing i can think of is the distributor might be 180* off.
Scorcher2005 said:All its doing is cranking over at about 200-300 rpm. I have spark, at least in the one cylinder i checked. I am about to go make sure all plug wires are pushed down.