Adjusting Headlight "Gods"...come in here...have a problem...

[5spd GT]

Well I installed the OEM lense with the housing yesterday...the ones from 50resto for about $30 bucks each...and transferred the "black" adjusting? plate to the backs of each one and popped them in...and when I turned on the lights my "low" setting is really low and shines right in front of the car and my "high-beam setting" is like my previous low setting...I want to get this fixed for nighttime driving...

Here is the possible problem...I'm assuming it is the top nuts that you turn to make the lights shine upwards but I've got those bolts tightened where they feel like they are about to break (the plastic)...and the bottom ones are on just a bit harder than finger tight because I figured if I tightened those it would be pointing towards the ground more...so in short...my "top" bolts are really tight...is it possible to crack them if I overtighten them...(the way the studs are put into the headlight assembly it seems like it could take some torque but I dont' want to crack new headlights?

The bottom of the headlights are visibly pushed in more than the top part of the headlight...

Also...how is the seal supposed to be positioned when the lights are installed...to get the headlights to go all the way in I had to fold the seal on the edges inwards to wedge it between the turning light and parking light assemblies...is that right?

Do I need to reinstall?...even though I tried a few times with no difference?

The new lenses make it look much better and cleaner...I'll post pics once my alignment issues are helped or corrected

 

[Gearbanger 101]

Mine were ceased up after time. I sprayed them with penetrating oil and let them sit a while. They freed up ok after that.

 

[5spd GT]

Mine were ceased up after time. I sprayed them with penetrating oil and let them sit a while. They freed up ok after that.

I'm almost positive it is pushing against the housing...to try to make it work?

The studs and bolts looked fine when I transferred them over...no "hold up" spots...maybe if I post a close up pic that will help...I'll have to wait till I get to the house...

 

[jrichker]

If you bought Genuine Ford headlights, the adjustment will be easy. If you bought reproduction headlights, they will be very difficult to align properly. I bought reproduction units the first time, and my headlights could not be aligned: they would shine up in the trees and across the road. I even had all 3 screws set up as adjustment screws.

The set of headlights I now have say "Ford" on them and they seem to line up properly.

The adjustment screws are upper inside and lower outside screws. If the headlights were re-assembled properly, they will have a 5/32" hex on the screw. You can use a 1/4" ratchet with a 5/32" socket. The upper screws can be reached with the hood up, while the lower screws may require you to lay on the ground in front of the car and reach them from the bottom.

To align the headlights, find a level spot with a wall 25-30 feet away. Disconnect the driver light and align up the passenger light so that the light pattern is slightly below of the actual centerline of the headlight. This is to illuminate the right hand side of the road. Reconnect the driver light and disconnect the passenger light. The driver light should be aimed so that the light pattern on the wall is inward about 6" and slightly below the centerline of the headlight. This keeps you from blinding the oncoming cars. Disconnecting and reconnecting the headlights helps to show which headlight is shining in what direction. Reproduction headlights may shine in several directions at the same time, making it very difficult to align them if both lights are on at the same time

One Stangnetter recommends putting a fender cover over the headlight that isn't being aligned. I like his idea, it's simpler than disconnecting the lamps.

 

[5spd GT]

If you bought Genuine Ford headlights, the adjustment will be easy. If you bought reproduction headlights, they will be very difficult to align properly. I bought reproduction units the first time, and my headlights could not be aligned: they would shine up in the trees and across the road. I even had all 3 screws set up as adjustment screws.

The set of headlights I now have say "Ford" on them and they seem to line up properly.

The adjustment screws are upper inside and lower outside screws. If the headlights were re-assembled properly, they will have a 5/32" hex on the screw. You can use a 1/4" ratchet with a 5/32" socket. The upper screws can be reached with the hood up, while the lower screws may require you to lay on the ground in front of the car and reach them from the bottom.

To align the headlights, find a level spot with a wall 25-30 feet away. Disconnect the driver light and align up the passenger light so that the light pattern is slightly below of the actual centerline of the headlight. This is to illuminate the right hand side of the road. Reconnect the driver light and disconnect the passenger light. The driver light should be aimed so that the light pattern on the wall is inward about 6" and slightly below the centerline of the headlight. This keeps you from blinding the oncoming cars. Disconnecting and reconnecting the headlights helps to show which headlight is shining in what direction. Reproduction headlights may shine in several directions at the same time, making it very difficult to align them if both lights are on at the same time

One Stangnetter recommends putting a fender cover over the headlight that isn't being aligned. I like his idea, it's simpler than disconnecting the lamps.

Thats fine...but that isn't the problem I'm experiencing...I have it all outlined in the first post...

The top bolts are tight and I would assume those are the ones meant to pull the illumination up...once I figure out this problem...then I will go with the above quote...

They are OEM lights and 7/16 bolt and I can get 1/4 socket wrench in there but that isn't the problem...

I'm going to take pictures here after a while and post them up...

 

[jrichker]

There are two sets of screws that hold the light assemblies in place. One set secures the headlight mount to the car front bumper. All these are supposed to be tight, with no slack. They have a 7/16 hex on them and are not for aligning or adjusting the headlights.

There are 3 screws that fit into sockets in the headlights. They are secured in place by C shaped spring clips. Two of the three screws are for aligning the headlights and have a 5/32" hex on one end. As per my previous post, the alignment screws go in the upper inside and lower outside corners. A third screw obtained from the junkyard may help in getting them aligned.

Maybe this will help clarify my previous post.

 

[5spd GT]

There are two sets of screws that hold the light assemblies in place. One set secures the headlight mount to the car front bumper. All these are supposed to be tight, with no slack. They have a 7/16 hex on them and are not for aligning or adjusting the headlights.

There are 3 screws that fit into sockets in the headlights. They are secured in place by C shaped spring clips. Two of the three screws are for aligning the headlights and have a 5/32" hex on one end. As per my previous post, the alignment screws go in the upper inside and lower outside corners. A third screw obtained from the junkyard may help in getting them aligned.

Maybe this will help clarify my previous post.

Yeah I went out right before I got on here (right now)...because somebody pointed out over at the corral that I was "adjusting" the wrong nut...it was the studs I was supposed to adjust...

So do i need to tighten the headlight bolts down after I adjust the lights or do them first...

Also...I have three screw in studs...but one of them doesn't have a hex end and is round (vice grips?)...how do I turn that one...that may be a "junkyard" stud from the previous owner when he installed the Reproduction lights...

So which studs affect what on the headlights...anybody got the position and what it's affect is on the light (clockwise and counterclockwise)...

My next post I'm going to post comparison pics between my somewhat yellowish headlamps to my new OEM ones...

 

[5spd GT]

Well here are my two comparison pics...

The OEM one (2nd pic) aren't adjusted and it appears the "flash" on the camera made them look hazier...but trust me they are clear

 

[jrichker]

Tighten down all the 7/16" nuts and then align the headlights.

Only 2 of the studs or screws will have the hex head on them. The 3'rd stud or screw is what you resort to when you can't get them to adjust any other way.

 

[5spd GT]

Tighten down all the 7/16" nuts and then align the headlights.

Only 2 of the studs or screws will have the hex head on them. The 3'rd stud or screw is what you resort to when you can't get them to adjust any other way.

Okay so I'll tighten them down...

That is weird how the 3rd one is the "last resort"...it doesn't have a hex head on it...as you stated...

It is so tight in there...my hands are to big... ...

 

[5spd GT]

Well I went out to adjust them...and they are a bit better...but I'm a little ticked off right now because (I should have noticed it earlier) my adjusting plates are broke around the "stud" area

Here is what I"m talking about:
http://secure.50resto.com/product1.cfm?SID=1&Product_ID=1878&Category_ID=744

$30 bucks for one...and I need two

I dont' have any money I need to get my valve cover leak fixed first...

 

[jrichker]

Some JB Weld epoxy from your local auto parts store may hold until you can get a replacement backing plate. I have used JB Weld to build or repair all kinds of plastic parts.

If you use any of the epoxy near the stud threads, coat them with grease prior to applying the epoxy to the backing plate. It will keep the epoxy from bonding to the studs. Some MEK (Methyl Ethyl Ketone) from Home Depot is an very good solvent for the epoxy before it sets. MEK applied with a Q tip is an excellent method to smooth and shape the epoxy before it sets hard. Once it sets, you can shape and sand it like hard plastic or wood. They even claim you can drill & tap threads in it, but I haven't tried that.

 

[5spd GT]

Some JB Weld epoxy from your local auto parts store may hold until you can get a replacement backing plate. If you use any of the epoxy near the stud threads, coat them with grease prior to applying the epoxy to the backing plate. It will keep the epoxy from bonding to the studs.

Excellent idea...the way I'm feeling now...I'll just wait a couple weeks and by them...once I get some more money...I don't drive at night hardly at all...just a few miles a few times a week with my current schedule...

 

[Wil]

just order entire kit from 50resto, I really hope I don't run into the same problem your in man. I hope everything turns out ok for you.

 

[5spd GT]

just order entire kit from 50resto, I really hope I don't run into the same problem your in man. I hope everything turns out ok for you.

Well alls I need is the adjuster plates and I know everything will be fine...I just didn't notice they were broken when I put them back in (I should have )...

Those lights look so much better though in person...

What paint did you decide to get?

 

[Wil]

Well alls I need is the adjuster plates and I know everything will be fine...I just didn't notice they were broken when I put them back in (I should have )...

Those lights look so much better though in person...

What paint did you decide to get?

Thanks for asking, hope you solve your problems soon. I'm STILL undecided I'm in dead lock with sonic blue and red. Getting car back on the road this saturday (9/25) and then it's off to the shop, will keep you posted. btw, if you need the adjusting plates, I can give you mine, like i said before, I ordered the new lights (the deluxe kit) and will be getting new ones.

 

[5spd GT]

Thanks for asking, hope you solve your problems soon. I'm STILL undecided I'm in dead lock with sonic blue and red. Getting car back on the road this saturday (9/25) and then it's off to the shop, will keep you posted. btw, if you need the adjusting plates, I can give you mine, like i said before, I ordered the new lights (the deluxe kit) and will be getting new ones.

I appreciate the offer...who knows you might need those adjusting plates..

You can't go wrong with either Sonic Blue or some sort of red...very nice...yeah I'll look for your "newly painted" car thread

 

[5spd GT]

Well I put on my new adjusting headlight plates and they look a lot better than the cracked worn-out "stock" ones...

Which of the two (hexended) studs do what...the top one does ? What does the bottom one do? on the headlights so I can get it adjusted quicker...

 

[5spd GT]

Well I put on my new adjusting headlight plates and they look a lot better than the cracked worn-out "stock" ones...

Which of the two (hexended) studs do what...the top one does ? What does the bottom one do? on the headlights so I can get it adjusted quicker...

 

[Gearbanger 101]

I could never remember. I just used to play with them until I got the beams pointed properly. I used to park it about 10-15 feet from the garage door, ran a piece of masking tape horizontally alone the wall to make sure they were level and vertically on the wall along the centreline of each light and went from there. Remember, if you're going to adjust by lining the lights up with their centre, do it with the high beams. The low beams are meant to shine slightly to the right when on. If you adjust them centrally with the low beams on, the your high beams will shine up into the left corner of outer space.