you need to get a manual, their is alot more to it, you have to adjust them by using the corect thickness of shim under the rocker arm, I did the intake when the exhaust was down and the exhaust when the intake was down, you spin the push rod as you tighten the rocker and when the push rod has drag on it you go 1/2 turn more, and you have to play with the shims under the rocker to get their
Nick,
If this doesn't help it me know and I'll scan my Ford Shop manual on adjusting lifters for you if you want.
FROM CRANE CAMS
Adjusting Hydraulic Lifters for Proper Preload
In order to adjust the preload the lifter must be properly located on the base circle or “Heel” of the lobe. At this position the valve is closed and there is no lift taking place. You will need to watch the movement of the valves to determine which lifter is properly positioned for adjusting.
1. Remove the valve covers, and pick a cylinder you are going to set the preload on.
2. Hand rotate the engine in its normal direction of rotation and watch the exhaust valve on that particular cylinder. When the exhaust valve begins to open, stop and adjust that cylinder’s intake rocker arm. (Why? Because when the exhaust valve is just beginning to open, the intake lifter will be on the base circle of the lobe, the correct position for adjusting the intake.)
3. Back off the intake rocker arm adjuster and remove any tension from the pushrod. Wait a minute or two for that hydraulic lifter to return to a neutral position. The spring inside the lifter will move the pushrod seat up against the retaining lock if you give it time to do so. (If you are installing brand new lifters they will be in the neutral position when they come in the box.)
4. Now spin the intake pushrod with your fingers while tightening down the rocker arm. When you feel a slight resistance to the turning of the pushrod, you are at “Zero Lash”. Turn the adjusting nut down one half to one full turn from that point. Lock the adjuster into position. The intake is now adjusted properly.
5. Continue to hand turn the engine, watching that same intake. It will go to full open and then begin to close. When it is almost closed, stop and adjust the exhaust rocker arm on that particular cylinder. (Again, when we see the intake almost closed, we are sure that exhaust lifter is on the base circle of the lobe.) Loosen the exhaust rocker arm and follow the same procedure described before in steps 3 and 4 to adjust this rocker arm.
6. Both valves on this cylinder are now adjusted, and you can move on to your next cylinder and follow the same procedure again.
Do Hydraulic Lifters Need to be Primed with Oil?
Many people mistakenly believe that hydraulic lifters must be soaked in oil overnight and be hand pumped up with a pushrod before installing into a new engine, however this is not necessary. In fact, this could cause the lifter to act as a “solid” and prevent obtaining proper preload. What is very necessary is the priming of the entire engine’s oil system before starting up a new engine for the first time. This is done by turning the oil pump with a drill motor to force oil throughout the entire engine. Crane Cams offers oil pump primers for Chevrolet and Ford engines
What is a “Fast Bleed” Hydraulic Lifter?
Part of engineering a hydraulic lifter is to determine what its “Bleed Rate” will be. The “Bleed Rate” is a scientific method of determining the time it takes the hydraulic lifter to lose its pressure once it is fully pumped up solid with oil. By changing this rate, the lifter can give different performance factors to the engine. One such design is the Crane Cams Fast Bleed Lifter. Its increased bleed rate enables it to provide improved vacuum, increased cylinder pressure and performance in the lower RPM ranges. It is best suited for those engines that are using a big camshaft profile that requires more compression ratio than the engine actually has. This situation would normally cause a loss of “bottom end” performance, but with the Crane Cams Fast Bleed Lifter the bottom end torque is restored.
NOTE: Fast Bleed Lifters are only for use if the compression ratio is below the recommended minimum shown on the application page for the particular camshaft you have selected.
)Take ala the spark plugs out and the serpintine belt off so it is easy for you to rotate the crank by hand.
2)Go to the number one pistion and get out a small screw diver and fill for the piston to come up and it will stall for one sec while you are still turning the crank. This is where you want to stop, you are at top dead center (be carfull not to pintch the screwdiver).
3)I adjust my rokers 3/4 tun from this point and then tighten the poly lock. Now you can go down the fireing order 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8. Turn the crank 1/4 rotation and filling on #3 the pistion will come up and just repeat the same thing that we did for #1. Then turn anouther 1/4 turn go to #7 , filling for the pistion to come up and so on.
When you thurn the crank 1/4 turn is ussualy on the money, you can go right to the pistion in the next firing order and adjust the valve. \
Very simple and i have no chatering and i have no valves stayin open. This workes good because you do not have to wait for one vale to open and anouther one to close.
The time that you want to adjust to 0 lash is when the pistion is at TDC and both vales are closed and this method will accomplish bot.Or another method being;
If this doesn't help it me know and I'll scan my Ford Shop manual on adjusting lifters for you if you want.
FROM CRANE CAMS
Adjusting Hydraulic Lifters for Proper Preload
In order to adjust the preload the lifter must be properly located on the base circle or “Heel” of the lobe. At this position the valve is closed and there is no lift taking place. You will need to watch the movement of the valves to determine which lifter is properly positioned for adjusting.
1. Remove the valve covers, and pick a cylinder you are going to set the preload on.
2. Hand rotate the engine in its normal direction of rotation and watch the exhaust valve on that particular cylinder. When the exhaust valve begins to open, stop and adjust that cylinder’s intake rocker arm. (Why? Because when the exhaust valve is just beginning to open, the intake lifter will be on the base circle of the lobe, the correct position for adjusting the intake.)
3. Back off the intake rocker arm adjuster and remove any tension from the pushrod. Wait a minute or two for that hydraulic lifter to return to a neutral position. The spring inside the lifter will move the pushrod seat up against the retaining lock if you give it time to do so. (If you are installing brand new lifters they will be in the neutral position when they come in the box.)
4. Now spin the intake pushrod with your fingers while tightening down the rocker arm. When you feel a slight resistance to the turning of the pushrod, you are at “Zero Lash”. Turn the adjusting nut down one half to one full turn from that point. Lock the adjuster into position. The intake is now adjusted properly.
5. Continue to hand turn the engine, watching that same intake. It will go to full open and then begin to close. When it is almost closed, stop and adjust the exhaust rocker arm on that particular cylinder. (Again, when we see the intake almost closed, we are sure that exhaust lifter is on the base circle of the lobe.) Loosen the exhaust rocker arm and follow the same procedure described before in steps 3 and 4 to adjust this rocker arm.
6. Both valves on this cylinder are now adjusted, and you can move on to your next cylinder and follow the same procedure again.
Do Hydraulic Lifters Need to be Primed with Oil?
Many people mistakenly believe that hydraulic lifters must be soaked in oil overnight and be hand pumped up with a pushrod before installing into a new engine, however this is not necessary. In fact, this could cause the lifter to act as a “solid” and prevent obtaining proper preload. What is very necessary is the priming of the entire engine’s oil system before starting up a new engine for the first time. This is done by turning the oil pump with a drill motor to force oil throughout the entire engine. Crane Cams offers oil pump primers for Chevrolet and Ford engines
What is a “Fast Bleed” Hydraulic Lifter?
Part of engineering a hydraulic lifter is to determine what its “Bleed Rate” will be. The “Bleed Rate” is a scientific method of determining the time it takes the hydraulic lifter to lose its pressure once it is fully pumped up solid with oil. By changing this rate, the lifter can give different performance factors to the engine. One such design is the Crane Cams Fast Bleed Lifter. Its increased bleed rate enables it to provide improved vacuum, increased cylinder pressure and performance in the lower RPM ranges. It is best suited for those engines that are using a big camshaft profile that requires more compression ratio than the engine actually has. This situation would normally cause a loss of “bottom end” performance, but with the Crane Cams Fast Bleed Lifter the bottom end torque is restored.
NOTE: Fast Bleed Lifters are only for use if the compression ratio is below the recommended minimum shown on the application page for the particular camshaft you have selected.
)Take ala the spark plugs out and the serpintine belt off so it is easy for you to rotate the crank by hand.
2)Go to the number one pistion and get out a small screw diver and fill for the piston to come up and it will stall for one sec while you are still turning the crank. This is where you want to stop, you are at top dead center (be carfull not to pintch the screwdiver).
3)I adjust my rokers 3/4 tun from this point and then tighten the poly lock. Now you can go down the fireing order 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8. Turn the crank 1/4 rotation and filling on #3 the pistion will come up and just repeat the same thing that we did for #1. Then turn anouther 1/4 turn go to #7 , filling for the pistion to come up and so on.
When you thurn the crank 1/4 turn is ussualy on the money, you can go right to the pistion in the next firing order and adjust the valve. \
Very simple and i have no chatering and i have no valves stayin open. This workes good because you do not have to wait for one vale to open and anouther one to close.
The time that you want to adjust to 0 lash is when the pistion is at TDC and both vales are closed and this method will accomplish bot.Or another method being;
myslo50 said:
Bolt on and go is not the way to do it.
Always check and set the proper preload on the lifters,especially after changing heads,adding roller rockers,or machine work like deck and head milling.
Shims or different length pushrods if needed provide the "adjustment".
Take the time and do it right.
jesus guys, you don't just bolt and go. precision here folks, do the job right. Read the instructions on crane cams, there is a full on adjustment procedure for pedestal stock type rockers, and it includes using the shims when needed, and that includes on even stock motors that have never been rebuilt before. Ever wonder why some have much more noise roller rockers than others?
this is just what i think,,, if you put unmilled Ford heads, E-7 or GT40 on you probably can get by with just bolting on the rockers, myself i put pedestal mount edle heads on and each one was off and i had to shim the rockers, buts thats edle heads going on a ford maybe ford on ford would be diff, I know if you put a motorsport rearend gear in a stang it sets up a lot easyer
Mob...
With anything, there's a right way, a wrong way, and a practical way.
What folks are saying about the shim/torque deal is true... However...
In your particualr circumstance, I'd bolt them suckers down and worry about going through the entire adjustment proceedure if it turns out that they make a lot of noise or you feel valve float at the top of your rpm range.
With anything, there's a right way, a wrong way, and a practical way.
What folks are saying about the shim/torque deal is true... However...
In your particualr circumstance, I'd bolt them suckers down and worry about going through the entire adjustment proceedure if it turns out that they make a lot of noise or you feel valve float at the top of your rpm range.