Fuel aeromotive in the tank fuel pump

chrisstang69

Member
Apr 5, 2019
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boston
Hey guys just picked up my 92 gt with a dead fuel pump so I went and purchased a aeromotive 340lph in tank fuel pump and hanger #18638 ,
my question is where can I get connectors to hook this up to the factory fuel supply line and factory fuel return line? I have been searching all over the internet for answers. Or do I have to buy new lines and make them myself? Any help would be great and much appreciated .

What I think i need is a AN-06 to 5/16 quick connect fitting 90 degree elbow for the supply line and
AN-06 to 1/4 quick connect fitting with 90 degree elbow

I have found the 5/16 but the 1/4 fitting i can't find and maybe it doesnt even exist !
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You should never have to buy new lines unless you want to. I mean, you could choose a cut-off point anywhere in the lines that you like and adapt them to either another hard line or soft one or even into a manifold.

This is certainly not the only source but it's one of the first that popped up:
https://www.jegs.com/c/Fittings-Hose/181705/10002/-1

Do you possess a line flaring tool?

I'm trying to recall who our subject matter experts are for the fuel system but it's morning :kmcoff:

Let's see if I can find you some more specific help:
@TOOLOW91 @Mustang5L5 @FastDriver @billison

Also: Help update that thread when you find the 'bottom line' answers to your questions! :nice:
 
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That pump is too big for the factory fuel return line, therefore, idle fuel pressure will be too high.
If you are still using the EEC-IV with no chip, it may not want to idle. If you have a "chip" or aftermarket ECU, you can tune it out.
Bigger is not always better. 250 lph should suffice.
Even if you increase the fuel line size, the factory FPR will be a problem.
You have a Vortech S/C; how much boost?
What size injectors?
 
That pump is too big for the factory fuel return line, therefore, idle fuel pressure will be too high.
If you are still using the EEC-IV with no chip, it may not want to idle. If you have a "chip" or aftermarket ECU, you can tune it out.
Bigger is not always better. 250 lph should suffice.
Even if you increase the fuel line size, the factory FPR will be a problem.
You have a Vortech S/C; how much boost?
What size injectors?

these are all great questions , bought the car off a kids parents I went to high school with , its been sitting for 10 years in heated storage, I don't know much about the car other then the tank and everything in it was junk.all i know really is that it made 452 hp to the rear wheels last time it was dyno;d . for what i paid for it it would still be worth it as a roller. originally it had a in tank pump and a inline vortech t-rex pump but its all seized up a friend of mine says he has used the 340 in all his boosted cars so i trusted his judgement , maybe i should not have lol.
 
You should never have to buy new lines unless you want to. I mean, you could choose a cut-off point anywhere in the lines that you like and adapt them to either another hard line or soft one or even into a manifold.

This is certainly not the only source but it's one of the first that popped up:
https://www.jegs.com/c/Fittings-Hose/181705/10002/-1

Do you possess a line flaring tool?

I'm trying to recall who our subject matter experts are for the fuel system but it's morning :kmcoff:

Let's see if I can find you some more specific help:
@TOOLOW91 @Mustang5L5 @FastDriver @billison

Also: Check this thread to see if there is anything helpful in there. Also: Help update that thread when you find the 'bottom line' answers to your questions! :nice:


I would rather not change any of the lines just need to find the correct fittings for the top of the in-tank pump,ordered a couple online , hope they work !!
 
340 in all his boosted cars

This statement doesn't make a lot of sense to me. You may want to download and read through this article:
https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/resources/fuel-flow-forensics.55/

There's a button toward the upper right hand corner for downloading.

Like @TOOLOW91 suggested, that fuel pump is too large for the application. Alongside driveability issues, you stand the [real] possibility of boiling the gas in a return type fuel system by constantly recirculating the fuel.
A 340L pump will spend the majority of its time pumping the fuel constantly from the tank, to the fuel rail where it doesn't get used then sent right back to the tank where the cycle repeats.

This is not a good plan. Pumping more fuel doesn't make it go faster.

I put down 480 RWHP through a PD blower with a 255L high pressure. At cruise, I still by-passed more fuel than I would have liked so I installed a Boost-a-Pump. It does a couple of things for me: It regulates power to the fuel pump at all times, taking care of the instabilities in our electrical system :rolleyes: and also provides a regulated selectable voltage increase during boost. You will see an example of this in the article I referenced.
 
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Ok so if I can return the pump I should , then just purchase a factory fuel pump assembly and order a walboro drop in and call it a day ? If I can’t return the 340 pump then I will still order the walboro and install it in the aeromotive fuel pump holder ? Does this sound like a better plan ? I’m new to forced induction so I’m still trying to understand everything. I appreciate the help with this . One thing I did learn from this is not to jump on things listening to one person lol because it cost to much money !!
 
Ok so if I can return the pump I should , then just purchase a factory fuel pump assembly and order a walboro drop in and call it a day ? If I can’t return the 340 pump then I will still order the walboro and install it in the aeromotive fuel pump holder ? Does this sound like a better plan ? I’m new to forced induction so I’m still trying to understand everything. I appreciate the help with this . One thing I did learn from this is not to jump on things listening to one person lol because it cost to much money !!

True story, and 'Yes'. You should install a drop-in pump and save yourself a bunch of money and headaches.

Either sit on the pump for a time where you have $10,000 in a 700+ HP motor or sell it if they won't take it back. Be aware that they might offer in-store credit if they do take it back. Maybe they have the Walbro pumps too?
 
Almost (if not every) OEM in-tank fuel pump for all vehicles is made by Walbro. To say you want a Walbro pump means nothing. To make it more confusing, look at this:
https://walbrofuelpumps.com/walbro-gss-fuel-pumps
All 3 of these Walbro's are 255 lph. You have to make an intelligent choice.
BTW:
Before these higher capacity fuel pumps became available, everyone used the in-line 80gpm T-Rex pump with a 155 lph in-tank pump. Still have the T-Rex, stored away. The 155 failed due to a failed pump sock.
 
True story, and 'Yes'. You should install a drop-in pump and save yourself a bunch of money and headaches.

Either sit on the pump for a time where you have $10,000 in a 700+ HP motor or sell it if they won't take it back. Be aware that they might offer in-store credit if they do take it back. Maybe they have the Walbro pumps too?


sounds like a plan time to order another pump lol
 
This statement doesn't make a lot of sense to me. You may want to download and read through this article:
https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/resources/fuel-flow-forensics.55/

There's a button toward the upper right hand corner for downloading.

Like @TOOLOW91 suggested, that fuel pump is too large for the application. Alongside driveability issues, you stand the [real] possibility of boiling the gas in a return type fuel system by constantly recirculating the fuel.
A 340L pump will spend the majority of its time pumping the fuel constantly from the tank, to the fuel rail where it doesn't get used then sent right back to the tank where the cycle repeats.

This is not a good plan. Pumping more fuel doesn't make it go faster.

I put down 480 RWHP through a PD blower with a 255L high pressure. At cruise, I still by-passed more fuel than I would have liked so I installed a Boost-a-Pump. It does a couple of things for me: It regulates power to the fuel pump at all times, taking care of the instabilities in our electrical system :rolleyes: and also provides a regulated selectable voltage increase during boost. You will see an example of this in the article I referenced.
Not me sir . I actually used this pump with an A trim , 42s , adjustable Reg and a tune and never has an issue .

I used the other version that goes in the Stock hat. If you get the adapters for the line with this drop in it will work . Or return it and get the 340 by itself. It fit right into my stock hanger . That’s my .02 I drove everywhere with that pump . Before I had the bearing issue in the stock bottom end
 
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Not me sir . I actually used this pump with an A trim , 42s , adjustable Reg and a tune and never has an issue .

I used the other version that goes in the Stock hat. If you get the adapters with this drop in it will work . Or return it and get the 340 by itself. It fit right into my stock hanger . That’s my .02 I drove everywhere with that pump . Before I had the bearing issue in the stock bottom end

Right but what all did you have to change to get it to work properly?
 
Nothing . I didn’t use Aeromotives hanger . I bought just the pump and put it In the stock hanger like you would a 255
Nothing . I didn’t use Aeromotives hanger . I bought just the pump and put it In the stock hanger like you would a 255
Wait... I got lost and I see why now. I tagged the wrong person up there.


So... What is your setup exactly? You're running an OEM style 340L?


I had tagged Toolow up there but it was @Blown88GT that responded.

Glad I added a tone of unnecessary confusion to the thread :O_o:
 
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Wait... I got lost and I see why now. I tagged the wrong person up there.


So... What is your setup exactly? You're running an OEM style 340L?


I had tagged Toolow up there but it was @Blown88GT that responded.

Glad I added a tone of unnecessary confusion to the thread :O_o:
No . I have a Magna fuel 750 sq efi pump .

I used the Aeromotive 340 in tank when I had the stock 302 with heads and the Vortech a trim on it .
 
so getting deeper into the fuel system this weekend, it still has a vortech FMU in it which i'm going to run with for this summer because of my current budget,I want to get it running make sure it actually runs then this fall/winter start upgrading what ever needs to be upgraded .I am getting ready to install the new fuel tank and pump,I have already removed the 2 FMU lines and cleaned them out my question is the car sat for a long time should I clean out the fuel lines?How would you recommend this? compressed air?