AFR 165 supplies

What kind of stuff is needed to bolt up AFR 165 heads to my car, do the heads come with everything on them?

can someone please tell me what i would need to buy if i was just gonna swap the stock heads with AFR 165 heads?

and is stud mounted better than pedestal?

thanks for your help
 
stud mount is much better then pedistal, its stronger.
you will need roller rockers, hardened push rods, and depending on your mods/future plans, id get 24# injectors, recalibrate maf for the larger injectors and a larger fuel pump.'
if you still are using the stock cam, nows the time to put in a performance cam. you will never see the afr's potential with a stock cam so while the engine is torn down to the block, you might as well do the cam now. if you do a cam, youll want a new timing chain too.
now with all this going in (cam or not) you will need a way to tune your a/f ratio cause its going to be way off. if you dont have a wide band o2 kit, nows a good time to get one or take it to a dyno tuner after the install. to adjust a/f ratio you will need an adjustable fuel pressure regulator.
you can easily pay $3000 in parts all at once (including heads, cam and tune)

do it right the first time, youll thank yourself in the end
 
If you get the emissions-legal 165's, they can simply be bolted onto your stock engine. I'd want to replace the fasteners with ARP hardware - either new bolts or studs.

The AFR's will show a signficant gain even with the stock cam. Keep in mind when you start changing the cam (heart of the motor) you really need to think through the entire combo to optimize your results. There are lots of folks out there running aftermarket cams (and other parts) who make more power than stock, but also have an engine with very poor bottom end power - which doesn't make for a fun or efficient street car. So the place to start is knowing exactly how you intend to use the car and what you want out of your mods. Got to have that nailed down before you start picking parts.

Also, the 94/5 computers are MUCH more sensitive to changes than the 89-93's are, so the further from stock you go with your changes, the more likely it is you'll need to alter the ecu to get it to run well. Contrary to the other posters comments, AFR heads with a good intake and exhaust system and stock cam will TOTALLY wake up a stock-cammed motor and will not require any significant tuning for the ecu. The efi is mass-air -- it senses how much air is entering the engine and selects the appropriate amount of fuel to inject. So if the cam stays stock, you shouldn't require a chip or tuning other than timing changes. By the way, to capitalize on the AFR heads, I'd suggest an aftermarket intake (GT40, Cobra or Explorer will work well with the stock cam), and long tube headers with a free flowing exhaust system. Those changes will make a noticeable difference without negatively impacting drivability or fuel mileage if you can keep your foot out of it. Change the cam, and things get much more interesting in terms of drivability.

Good luck with it.
 
thats what i forgot, arp head bolts or studs. do not for any reason use the stock ones. depends on your mods, how your a/f will react to the heads. my stock fuel pump is completely maxed out. the best a/f ratio i could get with the stock pump was 26:1 because it just didnt flow enough fuel. had to put in a 255lph pump to keep up with demand, but every part of the engine that air and fuel touch from front to back is aftermarket (stock internals though) so my a/f ratio was about 30:1 after all the parts went in. the ecu controls the bottom end very well (with stock pump, idle was 13.5:1) with no tune needed, but the top end will more then likely need help.
 
94 Mustang GT said:
well i would like to get stud mount cuz they r stronger. what company would any of u suggest?
adn would i be able to reuse my stock valve covers?


I hear scorpions are really good... You should be able to use the stock valve covers but there is only one way to find out.

Oh don't forget to get new dowels (small round metal objects that align the head to the block), these are a couple bucks at a local shop.


You'll also need thread SEALANT WITH TEFLON compound available at pep boys.
The sealant is used to seal the lower head bolts, those bolts actually penetrate into the water jackets so there must be a water tight seal at the threads.
Plenty of RTV Silicone
Get some carb/choke cleaner - good to degrease parts and get them ready to lube up with assembly lube
Assembly lube of course
New ARP headbolts (this is a must as mentioned before)
Plenty of time, if it takes you 2 weeks to do the project so be it. As long as she starts up the first time when youre done...

Good luck if you have any questions PM me im doing a headswap as well...
 
I don't know of any roller rockers that will clear the stock covers without some mods. Most everyone has to remove the baffle in the oil filler tube. Many have to grind some of the structural ribs on the underside of the covers; some use double thickness valve cover gaskets. I bought a used set of Cobra valve covers -- took care of the problem.
 
Michael Yount said:
I don't know of any roller rockers that will clear the stock covers without some mods. Most everyone has to remove the baffle in the oil filler tube. Many have to grind some of the structural ribs on the underside of the covers; some use double thickness valve cover gaskets. I bought a used set of Cobra valve covers -- took care of the problem.

Do you have a pic by any chance? I wanna see what the cobras look like.
 
http://www.stangcity.com/showphoto.php/photo/2160/cat/500/page/2

Click on the link, and then click on the pic to enlarge; the pass. side is pretty clear - it's a simple stamped steel valve cover, with a small depression running down the middle. That's the 93 Cobra cover; the 94/5's had "cobra' in script stamped into the top. I'm a 'form follows function' guy -- fancy looking valve covers don't do much for me - as you can see.