afr engine combo

WantaGT

WantaGT

Member
Jul 13, 2003
336
0
16
ohio
#1
after much deliberation I've decided that the most power can be found in heads so i've revised my combo once again lol. the only way i can afford this is if i only buy heads, gears, convertor and headers.

68 302 .030 over
9.1:1 compression
.500 lift 224 deg duration
afr 165
edelbrock performer
holley vac sec carb
mallory distributor
roller rockers
tri-y headers
full exhaust
custom tailored convertor
3.80 gears

i think this should propel a 3200 pound (with driver) 67 coupe deep into the 13's with room to grow later on, opinions please...
 
#2
What sort of growth are you leaving room for? A supercharger? Those heads would make good torque, but you may want a bit higher compression if you're not boosting it later. Also the 185s would make better power and probably wouldn't take away too much low end. I've no experience with that however, I'm sure others will comment on your combo.
 
#4
Please don't run a dual plane intake with those heads and gears!
If you must run a dual plane, use a Stealth.
Otherwise, a mild single plane will be your best friend.
My .02
Dave

To clarify:
You have focused on a lot of torque producing parts, but you are forgetting to take into account the torque/hp relationship.
Torque is the power your engine makes.
HP is how fast it can produce that torque.

Your 3.80 gears are going to rev alot faster than your engine can with some of the restrictive parts you are using to create torque. The power will be there, but at such a low rpm and so slow in coming that you will not reach your goals at the track. You could go around pulling stumps though... ;)
A mild single plane intake will come into power at the same rpm that your cam will. Then the 3.80 gears will work in concert to run the revs up quick. You will then be in the low 13s IMO
 
#6
Biggest thing is have to know where you want to grow. And exaclty what direction your want to go. Or you will blow alot of money switching paths. I personally like the rpm airgap or even just the rpm over ANY single plane, street or racing. A race is won or lost most of the time in the first 100ft. Unless there is a signifigant difference in motors. Playing catch-up sux !! I would get headman 1 5/8 instead of the tri-y's(extra 50 or 60 bucks) and wouldn't spend the extra money on a custom stall. An of the self 2800-3200 would work great. This was a close to my old setup. 3.80's and all. But all in all that will be a fun motor. P.S. I have seen those heads in the 11's on motor (302's).
 
#10
Why limit yourself to AFR heads? Especially if you're choosing the 165's? There are many other lower cost aftermarket heads out there that perform just as well or better than AFR 165's That way you CAN afford what you want. I paid $1000 for a new set of Canfield's that are the equal to or slightly better than the 165's. The Ford GT40X heads also would be a good choice. Or Edelbrock's Performer RPM series heads
 
#11
WantaGT said:
hey 10, what did you run with this set up
Click to expand...
I had rpm edelbrock heads(your afr's will perform much better) with the rpm airgap. And a x-303 cam which has the same duration at .050 as you are talking about. I tried a 2500 stall and sent it back. Just wan't enough. After I had the 3000 tci in there I tried the victor jr, too big still. I made one pass before the hood came up and it ran a 13.1 at 103. I was shifted at 6500 on both shifts and the 60 foot was a dismal 2.07. So with nittos(suck) and no drag suspension, not bad. With slicks and the right shift points(6100, I still run the cam and 6500 was way too high!!)I think it was would have been a solid 12.8 car maybe faster with other bolt ons(air cleaner, underdrives....) And that was with an edelbog 600. It now runs low 12's on the same compression you have with AFR 185's. So if you KNOW you will want the go faster, buy the 185's and build around those. You will have a blast either way.
 
#12
Here's another suggestion: scratch the mallory distributor, you don't need it. A good rebuilt stock one with a Pertronix will get you what you need. Also, I'd not worry about a converter for now, do the other stuff first, then see how it runs, and then you'll really know if it needs a converter. I'd also suggest a Performer RPM intake ( or any other high rise dual plane like the Stealth, Ford A321 or edelbrock's older F4B) over the Performer, it'll match the cam better and with the better valve springs the heads will have, let the motor rev higher to it's potential.
 
#14
guys i don't need suggestions, i know these other parts will make more power but i have them and i'll upgrade later. I just want to know about this exact combo, i'll eventually work my way up to the rpm intake and such but not right now...
 
#15
my opinion save your money and do it all in one shot.

Or build an engine on the stand. Then drop it in.

10.1 compression minimum if your running n/a or nitroused.

Way better intake and cam and something closer to a 700cfm carb.

You'll be much happier in the long run if you wait.
 
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