Hey all..was wondering if you can help me out. Got an 89 5.0 lx...recently had starting problems and extreme lack of power. Finally noticed the gunk buildup on the MAF sensor wire. After cleaning, ran like a champ! I mean like brand new! Still had some erratic starting and idle problems at times, so I switched out the sensor at Autozone for an aftermarket. Now car starts fine, idles great, but didn't have the power it had after I cleaned the wire. And now, a few months later, I can't pass emissons for HC at idle. I pass no problem under load, but fail at idle. I noticed at idle it seems like the car is missing a bit. Replaced all plus, wires,cap rotor. Even with my old crappy MAF with all the gunk I used to pass easily. Anybody have problems like this with an aftermarket MAF? or could it be just a clogged injector? Thanks for any suggestions!
Aftermarket MAF
- Thread starter Joelfan
- Start date
Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…Codes may be present in the computer even if the Check Engine light isn’t on.
Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.
See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html
IF your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.
Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.
Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Wal-Mart.
Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/pc-7208-90-equus-digital-ford-code-reader-3145.aspx – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $30.
Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.
See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html
IF your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.
Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.
Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Wal-Mart.
Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/pc-7208-90-equus-digital-ford-code-reader-3145.aspx – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $30.
Right now you are assuming that the cause of ALL your problems is the MAF.
This may or may not be the case.
As JRichker outlined, you need to pull your codes.
When you say aftermarket MAF, do you mean that you purchased a calibrated MAF tube and sensor? If so, what brand?
OR
Do you mean that you purchased a direct replacement sensor for the stock MAF meter?
jason
