Air Fuel Ratio help
- Thread starter mat82284
- Start date
i forgot to add my car also has a hard time starting up in the mornings i mean hard. i start the car and it gets to about 500rpms then turns off i have to do this about 4 times wile holding down the peddle to the flow and then after 4 tries it revs up real high becuase of wot and then i let got and it will shut off but if i keep it at 2000 intill my car gauge hits 180 my car runs fine like normal and the performance doesnt feel bad so im not shure what can cause this? also my timeing i ajusted it as much as i could intill that thing that sticks out hits the water pump the car seems like it needs more timeing i think maybe the distributor is off how could i fix this?
mustangsquared
Founding Member
sorry always forgot my sig.
1992 hatchback
Cobra engine all except fuel injectors 19lbs
3.73 gears
70mm tb
c&l mass air elbow
c&l 76mm mass air meter with mac 8" cone
Steeda triax Short Shifter
BBK headers
Smog Delete
255 fuel pump
bassani xpipe with no cats
Flowmaster 40 series catback
king cobra clutch
a stock 92 computer
3g alternator
underdive pullies
and i just did Tuneup
1992 hatchback
Cobra engine all except fuel injectors 19lbs
3.73 gears
70mm tb
c&l mass air elbow
c&l 76mm mass air meter with mac 8" cone
Steeda triax Short Shifter
BBK headers
Smog Delete
255 fuel pump
bassani xpipe with no cats
Flowmaster 40 series catback
king cobra clutch
a stock 92 computer
3g alternator
underdive pullies
and i just did Tuneup
mustangsquared
Founding Member
I think that FP is a little much...get a AFPR and set it to 38lbs...maybe even 37lbs. Is the MAF calibrated for 19lbs injectors? Check the TPS.. may want to set it at .95 volts...trick the computer to think the butter fly is closed more then it is. May help.
yes the maff is for 19lbs and how do i test the tps what setting do i set my multi meter to and touch which wires?
also how can i ajust my timing like stated above i cant move my dist any more what would happen if i took off that grey part and spon it around in a complete cir? i dont think its a good idea at all but just courios maybe the guy that had my car before had did something this stupid thats why its locked at max of 16 timeing because the waterpump hose gets in the way
heres a pic of the engine when i bought it has more in it now stated above but look at the dist see what i mean its set at 16 which is the max it can go
http://mathew82284.home.comcast.net/10.jpg
also how can i ajust my timing like stated above i cant move my dist any more what would happen if i took off that grey part and spon it around in a complete cir? i dont think its a good idea at all but just courios maybe the guy that had my car before had did something this stupid thats why its locked at max of 16 timeing because the waterpump hose gets in the way
heres a pic of the engine when i bought it has more in it now stated above but look at the dist see what i mean its set at 16 which is the max it can go
http://mathew82284.home.comcast.net/10.jpg
Sucking all that hot engine compartment air can mess with the ACT sensor as well (ACT sensor sees hot and it leans motor out/cool air it richens). Your intake air may be hotter than the computer is anticipating (it's calibrated assuming air is coming from the fenderwell). Some folks don't experience that problem while others do with those underhood filters. Just thought I'd mention it after seeing your pic.
You need a timing light to set the timing. Doing it without one can put the timing in the "Outer Limits".
Remove the SPOUT connector plug, and use a timing light to set the timing. The SPOUT is the dangling connector on the distributor harness on stangs made prior to 94 and with a computer controlled engine. 10* is stock for most 5.0s' 12*-14* is good for more pep if you are not into NO2 or power adders.
Remove the SPOUT connector plug, and use a timing light to set the timing. The SPOUT is the dangling connector on the distributor harness on stangs made prior to 94 and with a computer controlled engine. 10* is stock for most 5.0s' 12*-14* is good for more pep if you are not into NO2 or power adders.
mustangsquared
Founding Member
If you pick the distib up and turn the rotor counter clock wise while keeping the housing in place (only move it 1 or 2 teeth) you can adjust the timing advance a few extra degrees without hitting the thermostate housing. Of course use a timing light and remove the spout. As for the open air filter under the hood...use a piece of sheet metal and make a shield to keep hot air from the fan (not to mention turbulant air) from entering the filter. I did that until I got a CAI.
Michael Yount
Mustang Master
Exhaust smell is not a reliable way to determine mixture (rich/lean/etc.) - make some dyno pulls with a wide band sensor to determine a/f ratio. In the meantime, pull the diagnostic codes and let the computer help you figure out what's wrong. The sheet metal shield may help with fan wash/turbulence, but it won't do much for hot air entering the filter. Your filter in the engine compartment probably hurts HP compared to the stock/oem cold air box.
cjman15
Banned
anyone have a pic of tha SPOUT on tha distributor? I see tha main plug on mine... and then there is a plug already dangling there... is that it??
mustangsquared
Founding Member
it is the little gray plug in a black case (square) about 4 inches from the main plug hat connects to the distributor.
You could also have a bad ECT sensor or bad/dirty connection to the sensor. If the engine runs ok after warm, this is one of the symptoms.
The computer reads this sensor, and if the coolant is cold, it enrichens the fuel flow for cold start, and will keep the engine running properly until it reaches about 100 degrees, or until it goes to closed loop.
joeb
The computer reads this sensor, and if the coolant is cold, it enrichens the fuel flow for cold start, and will keep the engine running properly until it reaches about 100 degrees, or until it goes to closed loop.
joeb
cjman15
Banned
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