how in the world do you adjust your air to fuel ratio? i recently got an a/f ratio gauge and i kid you not, it ALWAYS runs lean.... i have NEVER seen my gauge get into the ideal range, not even at WOT.... 
Ajusting A/F ratio ?????
- Thread starter 95CobraMike
- Start date
Quick question for you is it a autometer gauge. If so those gauges suck thats just my 2 cents on it. I had one and it showed the same thing then we took it to get dyno tuned and it was rich. They do look cool and all but invest in a good wide band sensor its well worth the three hundred dollars
WhiteDevil
New Member
Do a search, i have responded to these A/F gague threads a million times. They are nothing but a light show.
loud 95
New Member
Those gauges pull from the factory oxygen sensors, which apparently lose most of their accuracy above 2000rpm. Try pulling your oxygen sensors and making sure they are not fouled. Also, if you have a chip, make sure the person who burned it didn't turn the sensors off because you have an off-road midpipe.
WhiteDevil
New Member
Chips dont do that on 95s. We only have two O2 sensors that are pre catalytic converter so they dont need to be switched off, because they are used in closed loop to target a 14.64 A/F ratio. Its 96+ mustangs that have 4 O2 sensor the first two pre catalytic like ours to monitorl closed loop A/F and the other two after the cats to make sure the exhaust is getting cleaned properly, they will cause a CE light. So tuners shut them off, that is a non issue on our cars.loud 95 said:
WhiteDevil said:
I gotta say I'll second John's feelings on this stuff.
The only time you would be close to seeing accurate readings is when you are driving around town like your grandmother might drive
Very light throttle when accelerating and when just cruising around
For wot accurate af ratio verification, and any other kind of driving condition for that matter, you gotta have a wide band and you can get a pretty good one in the price range of about $250 to $350.
Later
Grady
but i am saying i have NEVER seen the gauge go into the Ideal or Rich stage....EVER... even if i cruise like my grandma
i have only one o2 sensor the driver side is a plugged bung
i have only one o2 sensor the driver side is a plugged bung
Mike
The grandma drive thing was kinda of a way for me to represent Closed Loop driving conditions if you did not catch it btw.
It however is a pretty good example for the time and conditions that gauge might be helpful.
You very well could be lean for most of the time but it just would be a guess at best.
Later
Grady
The grandma drive thing was kinda of a way for me to represent Closed Loop driving conditions if you did not catch it btw.
It however is a pretty good example for the time and conditions that gauge might be helpful.
You very well could be lean for most of the time but it just would be a guess at best.
Later
Grady
WhiteDevil
New Member
I guess the question is what constitutes lean. When you are driving like a grandma your car is targeting 14.64 A/F ratio. So if that is "lean" then yeah it will be there on the gauge. But say the gauge wants 17:1 A/F ratio to be lean, then you have a problem and need to correct it.
WhiteDevil said:
Say John
I don't know much about these kinds of gauges and have never seen one but would you agree with this kind of thinking?
From what I've seen others say the gauge has a row of colored lights. It would seem to make sense for the center of the row to be 14.7 with the left as lean and the right as rich.
I know Mike's car is heavily modded but for say a stocker with good sensors and everything........................
Don't you think a steady cruise, which would be in CL, would show the center lights as being turned on?
Later
Grady
WhiteDevil
New Member
If the center of the gauge is 14.7 then yeah it should stay near the middle area.final5-0 said:
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