Suspension Alignment specs

toe out 1/16" caster all the way back, you want as much as possible, camber -1

You need to find a different shop.

There's a lot of good info here so far. When you start moving outside the factory alignment settings it's a good idea to find a shop that has experience doing "competition" alignments. Getting the right alignment is a bit of an art, so it takes a skilled tech.

A competition alignment can also have some issues under "normal" driving. My autocross cars tend to wander on roads with a crown. You want as much caster as you can get. If you are going to pay for another alignment, I would consider installing offset A-arm bushings (there are Poly and Delrin versions available). They will move the front wheels forward and allow for more caster. The Global West Del-A-Lum bushings I installed on my Fox made a noticeable difference in how the car felt on course. They are relatively cheap, but they do require a press to install.

The amount of negative camber depends on your willingness to wear out your tires faster than normal. For a daily driver solid rear axle Fox Body, I would say that -2 degrees is probably as far as most people would go. And you would want to rotate your tires more often. If you plan on racing the car, you would want more.

My autocross Fox is camber-limited due to the SN95 spindles, so I run -1.3 degrees. I'm not willing to cut the car up to get more, but ideally it would be set to -2.5 degrees. That car handles pretty well for not having a lot of negative camber.

All my autocross cars have 1/16" toe out.

Keep in mind, I don't daily drive my cars, and my tires only last 3,000 miles (not because of the alignment).

For a street car, I would personally go with max caster (with offset bushings), -1.5 degrees of camber, and 1/16" toe out.

7991LXnSHO said:

@Warhorse Racing so besides toe out,
“My autocross Fox is camber-limited due to the SN95 spindles, so I run -1.3 degrees. I'm not willing to cut the car up to get more, but ideally it would be set to -2.5 degrees. That car handles pretty well for not having a lot of negative camber.”

I do not have the ‘95-6 spindles or bigger brakes in at this point. If I do, is there more to do besides loosening the strut to spindle bolts, moving them (in?) and tightening them up to get max camber?

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There are a few things you can do to compensate for the camber issue created by using 94-04 spindles. Keep in mind that there are some differences between 94-95 and 96-04 spindles. In order to get more negative camber you can:

Elongate one mounting hole in the strut so that the top of the spindle can move inboard. You can drill new holes in the strut tower to move the CC plates inboard. Or you can use longer SN95 A-arms.

7991LXnSHO said:

Edit, I have 94-5 spindles I plan on using if I upgrade brakes. I have 96 spindles I plan on reselling. Both pair hurt to stub my toes on in the dark on the way to the garage fridge.

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Planning for the spindle swap is important. MM has a really good resource: https://www.maximummotorsports.com/tech_front_susp_7993to9604_spindle.aspx

As you'll see in that guide, bump steer and camber issues come into play with the different spindles. I have 96-04 spindles on my Fox and I've never had a bump steer issue, but it's not lowered very much.

7991LXnSHO said:

I think (it might even have been before I joined here) I got the 96 spindles from someone who did not know the difference, and I saw the missing Z in the arm too late to send them back.
So anyway, why the toe out? I am thinking I want to have for toe in for stable highway driving, right or wrong?

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Toe out helps with turn-in for performance driving. If your car will see more highway use, you might prefer zero toe or a little toe in.