Alignment with bumpsteer kit

[steveb24]

Hi all, Im in need of a bumpsteer kit. The only thing that concerns me is how to get the alignment done. would a regular alignment shop know how to work with these things (assuming I buy the Steeda kit)? I dont know how complicated they are, they look easy to install but tricky to adjust. any help from you guys who have used this kit would be greatly appreciated. thanks

 

[Thundermouse]

Regular Shop: No. But they would put the kit on for you and at least tell you it was properly aligned.

Most people buy a bumpsteer gauge and do it themselves. This is a more advanced job to do.

 

[steveb24]

how hard is it just to install the kit? I would take the arms to a shop for the ball joints, but what about the rest of it?

 

[Thundermouse]

Provide that you have a drill, the basic install is no problem. But, without proper alignment, it's possible that you may end up causing more bumpsteer than you started with.

 

[SaleenGT2001]

it is not hard to adjust them at all.

 

[steveb24]

hmm.. well is there anybody who has a prokit and a bumpsteer kit? I assume i just need to know approx how many spacers to use right, and make sure the tir rod end is parrallel with the ground.

I got quoted 235 for bumpsteer and ball joint install, without alignment. Id much rather install myself and figure out its settings without an alignment if thats even possible.

 

[MyStangGT]

The base setting for a bumpsteer kit is to have the tie rods at the same angle as the pivot angle of the lower control arm. I set mine there and went on with it. The sellers of the bumpsteer kits will say you are wasting your time installing them if you don't measure bumpsteer. This may be true but it looks like a very involved process to perform.

Make sure and paint the tie rod threads and rod end threads with antiseize compound. First time I went to adjust mine they had seized from electrolosis from the aluminum on steel.

I've had some luck doing my own alignments. If interested I did a write up but I've changed to using a digital level instead of the angle finder. Click Here.

 

[steveb24]

The base setting for a bumpsteer kit is to have the tie rods at the same angle as the pivot angle of the lower control arm. I set mine there and went on with it. The sellers of the bumpsteer kits will say you are wasting your time installing them if you don't measure bumpsteer. This may be true but it looks like a very involved process to perform.

Make sure and paint the tie rod threads and rod end threads with antiseize compound. First time I went to adjust mine they had seized from electrolosis from the aluminum on steel.

I've had some luck doing my own alignments. If interested I did a write up but I've changed to using a digital level instead of the angle finder. Click Here.

nice write up! seems really simple, have you ever had problems using your methods??

 

[MyStangGT]

nice write up! seems really simple, have you ever had problems using your methods??

It's worked good for me. A lot better since I got the digital level and set the street camber closer to zero. I probably put 15-20K street miles on it without issues. My problem is I drove a lot of straight highway miles to work and back so I couldn't get away with the amount of negative camber some city dwellers run. As little as -.7 would cause inside wear for me on the street.

I'll have to admit the car hasn't seen a street alignment in over a year though. It just gets trailered to the track and auto-x now.

 

[SaleenGT2001]

not trying to bash your method but i would not trust the 1960's methods of doing alignments. there is a reason we use a $40,000 machine to do alignments now. if you do decide to go the do it yourself route PLEASE get it checked by a real alignment shop afterwards

 

[4.6andSlicks]

Just did a Steeda bumpsteer kit this past Saturday using a bumpsteer gauge. I have an '01 Cobra with H&R sports dropping it about 1.5". I used a level to set the camber as close to stock as I could, but at the new "lowered" position. If you're just trying to get rid of bumpsteer, you won't need ball joints unless your car is really slammed.

With all the spacers in place above the tie rod, bumpsteer was worse than stock. I ended up with 2 spacers above the tie rod (smallest and the next size up) and the rest below and that gave me a .021 tow out at 3" of positive wheel deflection (up).

With all the spacers, bumpsteer was over .220 tow out. With no spacers, bumpsteer was slightly toed in, which you never want. Bumpsteer that tows in will make it feel like the car's oversteering in a corner.

The testing has to be done with either no springs in the car (as I did) or by pulling down on the car from below with something like a "come along", but I would think you would need a lift or pit to do it that way.

I made a bumpsteer gauge with a couple of dial indicators. (pictured below) The computer doesn't do anything but hold the wood in place. Make sure to center the gauges equally left and right of the hub or you will get some incorrect readings.

I absolutely agree with SaleenGT2001 that a professional alignment is essential.

 

[steveb24]

Yeah, good info guys.

Let me just pose this situation... Say I install the new ball joints, then install the bumpsteer kit and make the new tie rod end exactly even with the control arm, and then go get a regular alignment. wouldnt that be good enough?

my other option is get the kit and joints installed for $235, then get it aligned buy a ford worker my perf shop guy knows who does sidework, which im guessing would run another $150. i cant get in contact with this guy unless the shop installs the goods.. so..

is the extra approx $300 worth it for a perfect bumpsteer adjustment, or would leveling the the rods with the control arm be good enough?

sorry bout the length, but i wouldnt mind trying this and saving $$, but its gotta get rid of this bumpsteer i got. also, H&R sports or supersports are being installed over my sagging pro kit during this process.

 

[4.6andSlicks]

I can only give info on what I've done. If it's only an 1.5" drop, you won't need ball joints to adjust bumpsteer. Right there's a good savings.

With just tie rod ends, I can adjust the bumpsteer between toeing in and toeing out. The perfect adjustment is between those two points, no ball joints.

I didn't look at any angles on the tie rod or lca, just used the gauges. Seems like you would be close with a quarter to a third of the spacers above the tie rod end, the rest below.

This seems logical when you think about it. This kit can be used to adjust a 2" plus slammed car with ball joints, all increasing the number of spacers above the tie rod end.

 

[steveb24]

Slicks, thanks for the help..

Tonight I ordered bumpsteer kit, x2's, poly offset rack bushings for $255 from stangsuspension with a email discount.. thought that was a deal. it was a package, dont know anything about the offset bushings so we'll see about them.

also ordered H&R supersports and energysuspensions poly isolators front and rear.

im going to install this all myself with my pop's and try to get the bumpsteer dialed in right.. (got some good info from steeda today), and try to rent the ball joint tool from autozone so i dont need to take off the front control arms.

My last concern is Caster/Camber plates.. Can I get is aligned right with this setup without them? Also any tips on ball joint removal and this install would help (I've swapped springs before so im good on that), but anything else that would benefit me is appreciated.. thanks SN

 

[steveb24]

need some install input on ball joints please.. and some C/C plate advice. thanks guys