Almost done installing Hawk pads, have a question though...

2000 4.6 · Jun 22, 2005

Alright, last night I finished installing hawk pads on all 4 corners. I started with the back and finished with the front. The fronts were very tight...the caliper and pads barely fit over the rotor. I had to use a little force to get them to go on. Well, I put everything back together and started the car and the brake pedal feels very hard. Also, when I moved it into the garage, it felt like the brakes were on even though they were not. Is there too much pressure in the master cylinder now or something? Do I need to sand down the hawk pads a little bit? I have not bleed the brakes but I will if I need to.

mogs01gt · Jun 22, 2005

On the front brakes, you must depress the pistons into the caliper. I used a large C clap and a straight piece of wood.*redneck* style. That way when you put the pads back in, they will fit over the rotor freely. Then when you start up the car and build pressure, you press the brake peddle down a few times and it will seat properly.

hotrodnut · Jun 22, 2005

Did you bleed the brakes after the pad install? If not, this is just a thought here, but if you are the kind of person that tops off the fluid everytime it gets a bit low and the pads were worn a lot then it could be you need to pull some of the fluid out because by pushing the pistons back in it filled the reservoir back up to the top and not allowing the pads to fully retract.

mogs01gt · Jun 22, 2005

You do not need to bleed the breaks after replacing the pads. You can press the front brakes back in and you can turn and press the rear brakes back in all by hand.

hotrodnut · Jun 22, 2005

mogs01gt said:
You do not need to bleed the breaks after replacing the pads. You can press the front brakes back in and you can turn and press the rear brakes back in all by hand.

Yes, but pressing the pistons back pushes the fluid back up into the reservoir right? If it has been maintained to the proper level for the life of the old pads then it's possible it is too full and needs bleeding or some removed from the reservoir to get back to the proper level.

mogs01gt · Jun 22, 2005

the fluid goes back up into the lines but you arent letting any air in. Bleeding the brake lines is to let all of the air out.When you press down back on the brake peddle with the car running, the caliper seats the pads and pushes fluid back down in the normal process.

2000 4.6 · Jun 22, 2005

mogs01gt said:
On the front brakes, you must depress the pistons into the caliper. I used a large C clap and a straight piece of wood.*redneck* style. That way when you put the pads back in, they will fit over the rotor freely. Then when you start up the car and build pressure, you press the brake peddle down a few times and it will seat properly.

Yeah, I did compress the calipers and they are still tight. I forgot to mention that I have the cobra/bullitt front brakes.

I heard that Hawk pads were thicker than normal pads and that you have to sand some of it down (which I did).

2000 4.6 · Jun 22, 2005

hotrodnut said:
Yes, but pressing the pistons back pushes the fluid back up into the reservoir right? If it has been maintained to the proper level for the life of the old pads then it's possible it is too full and needs bleeding or some removed from the reservoir to get back to the proper level.

Yeah, I will have to check the level of the master cylinder tonight and see if it is above the line. If it is, I will have to siphon some out I guess.

SilverGTV8 · Jun 22, 2005

Did you install a shim behind the pads?

I did that on accident on my Honda and the front cailpers fit very tight on the rotors making the car feel like it is light braking. Figured that out after my first ride, pulled the shims and had no problems

Almost done installing Hawk pads, have a question though...

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