will the 100 amp alt be able to deal with this item and if so what control unit would be best?http://cgi.ebay.ca/RADIATOR-FAN-ELE...ryZ33600QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
Alt vs electric fan
- Thread starter DMAN302
- Start date
The DCC controller seems to be the way to go. If you wanna go cheap, a regular parts-store thermostat would work.
A 100-amp alt should be fine. The stock 65-amp unit could barely cut it on my car, but it lived a long life even with the elec. fan in place (prior owner installed one before I got it and before I upgraded to a 3g). The average alternator coming with most cars today, which usually tend to have electric fans and lots of power-drawing gadgets, is between 100-130 amps, so a 100 amp unit should be fine if you've already got one. If you're just considering an upgrade still, go the extra step and get a 3g unit (130 amps) and it'll be one less thing to ever worry about.
A 100-amp alt should be fine. The stock 65-amp unit could barely cut it on my car, but it lived a long life even with the elec. fan in place (prior owner installed one before I got it and before I upgraded to a 3g). The average alternator coming with most cars today, which usually tend to have electric fans and lots of power-drawing gadgets, is between 100-130 amps, so a 100 amp unit should be fine if you've already got one. If you're just considering an upgrade still, go the extra step and get a 3g unit (130 amps) and it'll be one less thing to ever worry about.
100 amp is in the car now from Tuff stuff so I will definately look at the fan seriously then..thanks very much.
srothfuss
Last night I stabbed the same guy 7 times in a row
DMAN if you get the DCC FK35 your alternator output should be just fine. Granted a little more strain on the electrical system, but it will work just fine.
srothfuss
Last night I stabbed the same guy 7 times in a row
Depending on who you talk to, anywhere between 7-12hp in the upper RPM range where as the alternator only requires about 1/2hp to run.
It's definently worth the time to swap it out.
It's definently worth the time to swap it out.
I gotta agree that the 100 amp alt should be able to power most fans.
If you think the e-fan is goin to be a mainstay (perhaps the E-fan itself will change, but you wont go back to a mech fan), really think about the Baskin controller. Not just for the start-up draw reasoning, but because it just works so darn well.
If all else failed, you can always put it on the other stang if you wanted.
Good luck brah!
If you think the e-fan is goin to be a mainstay (perhaps the E-fan itself will change, but you wont go back to a mech fan), really think about the Baskin controller. Not just for the start-up draw reasoning, but because it just works so darn well.
If all else failed, you can always put it on the other stang if you wanted.
Good luck brah!
tell me a little more about the baskin unit JT..I like the fan and am awaiting shipping charge info on it...the mech fan is great but all my local boys are really pushing me to upgrade to the efan...they do and have excellent results.
srothfuss
Last night I stabbed the same guy 7 times in a row
www.dccontrol.com
email Brian Baskin @ [email protected]
My very basic understanding of the DCC unit is this:
1) Elimination of hard electrical spikes on start ups, thus reducing the amount of electrical strain on your car and the fan. This extends the life of all components involved.
2) No need for any relay's to run the unit. Just hard wire it into your battery / grounds and ignition sources. The temperature probe does the rest. My car runs a hotter termostat (195) but my controller is set to come on 202 degrees. Once I figured out my faulty voltage regulator, the controller was / is able to keep my car right at 202 degrees or slightly above that. Never above 210 anymore! It's pretty much a set it and forget it situation.
3) Customer service. Baskin is simply the best when it comes to helping you out or trouble shooting. Even if you ruin the unit, he'll help you replace it or test them just to make sure nothing is wrong with the units he builds. He has a SN acount (Baskin) as well so he might see this and hop on.
4) Size of the unit / choices. I was shocked when I saw how small these things really are. For a "clean" engine like yours, it should be pretty easy to mount this thing up and out of the way. DCC also carries a full line of electric fans with the controllers built right into them.
I am sure there is more, but I am running out of thinking power for the night and my fingers hurt from typing too fast.
email Brian Baskin @ [email protected]
My very basic understanding of the DCC unit is this:
1) Elimination of hard electrical spikes on start ups, thus reducing the amount of electrical strain on your car and the fan. This extends the life of all components involved.
2) No need for any relay's to run the unit. Just hard wire it into your battery / grounds and ignition sources. The temperature probe does the rest. My car runs a hotter termostat (195) but my controller is set to come on 202 degrees. Once I figured out my faulty voltage regulator, the controller was / is able to keep my car right at 202 degrees or slightly above that. Never above 210 anymore! It's pretty much a set it and forget it situation.
3) Customer service. Baskin is simply the best when it comes to helping you out or trouble shooting. Even if you ruin the unit, he'll help you replace it or test them just to make sure nothing is wrong with the units he builds. He has a SN acount (Baskin) as well so he might see this and hop on.
4) Size of the unit / choices. I was shocked when I saw how small these things really are. For a "clean" engine like yours, it should be pretty easy to mount this thing up and out of the way. DCC also carries a full line of electric fans with the controllers built right into them.
I am sure there is more, but I am running out of thinking power for the night and my fingers hurt from typing too fast.
Well ebaby says I own the fan so when it gets here I'll look to get the stuff together. So just to understand Baskin in one of the DCC guys...would I need anything aside for a Fk35 you referenced earlier? What aprox is the price of the item?
srothfuss
Last night I stabbed the same guy 7 times in a row
Baskin is the owner / operator and builder of the units. So be patient when, or if, you order because they are custom built.
The FK35 comes with everything you need.
FK meaning Fan Kit = wire harness / temp probe / fasteners / jumpers & rubber grommets to protect your paint
35 meaning 35amps. Which is more than enough to run my monster Mark VIII fan so it should be all you ever need. Unless you start running more than 1 fan...
The price is 109.xx USD.
The FK35 comes with everything you need.
FK meaning Fan Kit = wire harness / temp probe / fasteners / jumpers & rubber grommets to protect your paint
35 meaning 35amps. Which is more than enough to run my monster Mark VIII fan so it should be all you ever need. Unless you start running more than 1 fan...
The price is 109.xx USD.
Nicely summed up Steve. 
Derek, I know that's a chunk of change, and you know how poor I am, and I love the unit (read: it's worth the money, especially since you are so meticulous about your operating temps and have such a beautiful ride).
Like Steve said, you dont get that crap of having the fan come on at 195 and off at 187 (for example, with a conventional controller and relay set-up). It seems like mine ramps up at 187*F and it just keeps ramping up accordlingly. Temps literallly just stay put or drop (if temps rise 1*, it sees it and spins the fan up even more). I also got the rheostat, so I can fine tune the setting, which is kinda fun.
And because of the 'soft start', it wont jar your charging system with a huge start-up draw.
Once someone starts to price a 75 amp relay (the best relay for about any conversion if one wants reliablity), a conventional controller, etc, the nickel and dime price comes close to Brian's fan controller.
I consider myself semi-intelligent and knowledgable with cooling stuff and even so, Brian intelligence and service blew me away (we had several longer email exchanges, during the weekend no less).
It's just a nice way to do things, funds allowing.
Derek, I know that's a chunk of change, and you know how poor I am, and I love the unit (read: it's worth the money, especially since you are so meticulous about your operating temps and have such a beautiful ride).
Like Steve said, you dont get that crap of having the fan come on at 195 and off at 187 (for example, with a conventional controller and relay set-up). It seems like mine ramps up at 187*F and it just keeps ramping up accordlingly. Temps literallly just stay put or drop (if temps rise 1*, it sees it and spins the fan up even more). I also got the rheostat, so I can fine tune the setting, which is kinda fun.
And because of the 'soft start', it wont jar your charging system with a huge start-up draw.
Once someone starts to price a 75 amp relay (the best relay for about any conversion if one wants reliablity), a conventional controller, etc, the nickel and dime price comes close to Brian's fan controller.
I consider myself semi-intelligent and knowledgable with cooling stuff and even so, Brian intelligence and service blew me away (we had several longer email exchanges, during the weekend no less).
It's just a nice way to do things, funds allowing.
understand completely what your saying JT..spend a bit and get some value...usually (most often) is the best method. Well seems the new rad (opted for stock style 2 core) has really done quite a bit to help stabalize the temps...holding well within stat range (opens at 183) and with 20 minutes of idle, at 85 degrees outside and 70% humidity, and 10 minute stop and go the gauge did not move more than a degree either side of 183. So from there I will look at the fan install and once complete will hopefully not have to look at the gauge again..you know what I mean. Thanks again guys..you really do help me get things done right!
