Alternate trac-lok disk stacking & leaving out S-spring when rebuilding questions...

dz187

Member
Sep 22, 2005
65
0
6
Arizona
I'm about to buy some new 3.73 gears and decided that I should rebuild the rest while I'm in there. I was researching the alternate disk stacking method here http://www.corral.net/tech/drivetrain/gears.html and was wondering if anyone who's done it ran into durability issues? Also, I read somewhere on here that removing the S-spring will yield better cornering? What purpose does the s-spring serve and will leaving it out cause any side-effects?
 
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The S spring provides pressure to compress the clutch plates together. If you leave out the S spring, the clutches basically freewheel. Then its like not having a track lock at all.
 
Keep the s-spring in that would be a bad idea. I run the modified clutch steel clutch steel setup. The rear end is very tight. I like it quite a bit. It does react a little different then my car used to with clutch steel steel clutch ford factory setup but its nothing that you can not get used to. I highly recommend modifying it.
 
By reacting differently what I mean is under hard wheel spinning conditions if my car is pointed right in first gear and I shift to second it will be pointing right and it does this quickly so you have to be ready for it. then in third it goes the other way again. For normal white man sunday driving I have not noticed any issues. It works great.
 
Well if your there rebuild it. As for the "S" spring one trick is to get from from a Truck 8.8. I guess this has higher spring loading then the stock mustang "S" spring. It is harder to get installed but once installed you donthave to worry about it again!
 
didn't realize the spring in the truck was more heavy duty. Might be something I will look at. The factory mustang one is a pain to get in I can't imagine one with more spring tension. I MIGHT FIGHT THAT A WHILE TO GET IT IN.
 
Not trying to hi-jack this thread but the biggest problem I had was rotating the spider gears back into position. I had to go with a .010 less shim thickness and I don't feel the posi is gripping as it should.
 
I ended up purchasing the carbon trac-lok disks after getting a good deal. The gear package I bought comes with 75w-90 royal purple... will this be ok on the carbon disks or do I want to use 85w-140?? Now that I think about it, mixing clutch types might not be a good idea
 
Not trying to hi-jack this thread but the biggest problem I had was rotating the spider gears back into position. I had to go with a .010 less shim thickness and I don't feel the posi is gripping as it should.

When I built mine I actually used 4 new frictions and had to go with no shims. Even if I had the smallest shim in I couldn't get the spider gears to roll back in. Since the rebuild it hooks great. No one wheel peel anymore.