Alternate trac-lok disk stacking & leaving out S-spring when rebuilding questions...

dz187

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Sep 22, 2005

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Arizona

Jun 18, 2008

#1

• Jun 18, 2008

• #1

I'm about to buy some new 3.73 gears and decided that I should rebuild the rest while I'm in there. I was researching the alternate disk stacking method here http://www.corral.net/tech/drivetrain/gears.html and was wondering if anyone who's done it ran into durability issues? Also, I read somewhere on here that removing the S-spring will yield better cornering? What purpose does the s-spring serve and will leaving it out cause any side-effects?

 

jrichker

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#2

• Jun 19, 2008

• #2

The S spring provides pressure to compress the clutch plates together. If you leave out the S spring, the clutches basically freewheel. Then its like not having a track lock at all.

 

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86bluecobra

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Jun 19, 2008

#3

• Jun 19, 2008

• #3

Keep the s-spring in that would be a bad idea. I run the modified clutch steel clutch steel setup. The rear end is very tight. I like it quite a bit. It does react a little different then my car used to with clutch steel steel clutch ford factory setup but its nothing that you can not get used to. I highly recommend modifying it.

 

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86bluecobra

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#4

• Jun 19, 2008

• #4

By reacting differently what I mean is under hard wheel spinning conditions if my car is pointed right in first gear and I shift to second it will be pointing right and it does this quickly so you have to be ready for it. then in third it goes the other way again. For normal white man sunday driving I have not noticed any issues. It works great.

 

93 LX

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#5

• Jun 19, 2008

• #5

Well if your there rebuild it. As for the "S" spring one trick is to get from from a Truck 8.8. I guess this has higher spring loading then the stock mustang "S" spring. It is harder to get installed but once installed you donthave to worry about it again!

 

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86bluecobra

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Jun 19, 2008

#6

• Jun 19, 2008

• #6

didn't realize the spring in the truck was more heavy duty. Might be something I will look at. The factory mustang one is a pain to get in I can't imagine one with more spring tension. I MIGHT FIGHT THAT A WHILE TO GET IT IN.

 

RYC CUKR

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Jun 19, 2008

#7

• Jun 19, 2008

• #7

When I rebuilt the diff in my 93 I went with the alternate stacking pattern. No problems with it at all. Putting the S spring back in is a real PITA. I had to get out the BFH.

 

G

Goldcuffs

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Jun 19, 2008

#8

• Jun 19, 2008

• #8

Not trying to hi-jack this thread but the biggest problem I had was rotating the spider gears back into position. I had to go with a .010 less shim thickness and I don't feel the posi is gripping as it should.

 

dz187

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Jun 19, 2008

#9

• Jun 19, 2008

• #9

jrichker said:

The S spring provides pressure to compress the clutch plates together. If you leave out the S spring, the clutches basically freewheel. Then its like not having a track lock at all.

Click to expand...

Ok that makes sence. I dont know where I read to leave the spring OUT...

 

dz187

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Jun 21, 2008

#10

• Jun 21, 2008

• #10

I ended up purchasing the carbon trac-lok disks after getting a good deal. The gear package I bought comes with 75w-90 royal purple... will this be ok on the carbon disks or do I want to use 85w-140?? Now that I think about it, mixing clutch types might not be a good idea

 

RYC CUKR

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Jun 21, 2008

#11

• Jun 21, 2008

• #11

Goldcuffs said:

Not trying to hi-jack this thread but the biggest problem I had was rotating the spider gears back into position. I had to go with a .010 less shim thickness and I don't feel the posi is gripping as it should.

Click to expand...

When I built mine I actually used 4 new frictions and had to go with no shims. Even if I had the smallest shim in I couldn't get the spider gears to roll back in. Since the rebuild it hooks great. No one wheel peel anymore.