alternator/voltage regulator

[cbarr300]

yeah, I just got a REALLY temporary cable out the battery isle since I was pressed for time and pep boys didn't have the size wire I needed.

Let's see how long this one lasts lol

thanks again for the help

 

[HISSIN50]

Clay, if you didnt already, get circuit protection on that cable. Pep Boys around here sells ANL fuses, as does Napa. Or use fusible links or a circuit breaker. If you lose a couple of diodes in a row, that can lead to a short to ground and you will be really glad that you have the protection (especially with a parts store alternator). It shouldn't take but a few minutes to configure whatever route of protection you want to use. It's a big deal IMHO though.

 

[cbarr300]

oh yeah, I definitely don't want a cable with no circuit protection on it. I took it home (about 5 miles) and tomorrow morning I'm taking the truck up to another place and getting a new fused cable.

I just needed to get the car home.

What would be the best gauge cable to use for the alternator? Also, what amp fuse should I get?

thanks

 

[HISSIN50]

Clay, for a true 3G (130 amp alt), you can use 4 AWG cable (rated for ~135 amps over the distance you need it to go. The stocker is only about 6 AWG anyhow) and a fuse that is rated for your weakest component. If using a 4 AWG [ahem, fine stand] cable, you should be ok with a 125 amp slow burn fuse (that slow burn part is real important). Grab a 140-150 amp fuse for a spare (I keep one in the glove box. I'll be going to a resettable circuit breaker eventually however). I say this because our alts can actually put out more than 130 amps, so there's a chance the 125 could blow. Or just use a 150 amp fuse in the first place. Your call. I'd use a 125 and if it blows, go with the bigger one. Unless you have a crap load of stuff, you should not blow the fuse, and given the recently issues, it's nice to have the thing fused on the tight side, IMHO.

Good luck.

 

[cbarr300]

Thanks for the info, another problem down....for now

take care