Aluminum Drive Shaft question

Lynx331

New Member
Jan 5, 2004
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Chicago IL
Im considering getting an aluminum driveshaft for my car. Is it worth the $250? I am planning on adding a supercharger in the future. My U-Joints are horrible in my steel driveshaft. would it be better for me to buy an aluminum? Or just replace the u joints and use this one?
 
Well, b4 the price went up, it was better to swap for an alum shaft than to swap your u joints out, but for $250, it leaves more to consider.

if you can find a used one for $100, jump on it.

The MAIN reason for the alum shaft is to kill vibrations, and NOT for performance. Do NOT get one thinking it'll make you go quicker. Vibrations typically occur after a gear install, which would therefore warrant an aluminum shaft.

If you don't have any speed related vibration problems right now, I'd just swap out the ujoints and save the aluminum shaft for later when you actually need it. $250 can go to a lot more nowadays.
 
v8only said:
Well, b4 the price went up, it was better to swap for an alum shaft than to swap your u joints out, but for $250, it leaves more to consider.

if you can find a used one for $100, jump on it.

The MAIN reason for the alum shaft is to kill vibrations, and NOT for performance. Do NOT get one thinking it'll make you go quicker. Vibrations typically occur after a gear install, which would therefore warrant an aluminum shaft.

If you don't have any speed related vibration problems right now, I'd just swap out the ujoints and save the aluminum shaft for later when you actually need it. $250 can go to a lot more nowadays.

Exactly what he said...

I have one and the only reason I did it was to fix any balance problems and replace the yoke at the same time.

Mine was $160, so with the cost of $70 for a new yoke, $20 for new U joints & $40 to get it balanced, it made good sense to do it.
 
jrichker said:
Mine was $160, so with the cost of $70 for a new yoke, $20 for new U joints & $40 to get it balanced, it made good sense to do it.

You just stated 3 of the 4 reasons for my wanting to get it, before the price hike, new U-joints, pre-balanced, but in addition - it's half the weight as the stocker. Before, it was well worth the price, but now, it's ford's own killing to its sales.
 
I bought an aluminum driveshaft from www.buyfordracing.com for $200 bucks...only 30-40 bucks more than the original price...I bought it about a month ago...and their website still shows that price...they have good prices on a lot of things...

If you have gears or worn out u-joints...I say you "myswell" go ahead and get them unless your on a strict money diet...
 
Try eBay I got mine for $150 delivered. It is used but looks shinny and new. If it is used it could not have been driven too long!! I think it will require me to reuse the mounts front and back. It does have new or near new U joints both front and back!
 
i just put one on a month ago and i love it, a week before it was $159 and i went to get it at summit and was like $259 wtf!!!, its just so pretty i couldnt refuse it.

thanks for ruining our economy bush :flag:
 
JR and Jeremy (et al) are spot on. i might ask: would you do the U-joint work yourself or have a shop do it (if retaining your old DS)?

if you would have someone else do the work, i would lean toward the alum DS. if not, your call (depends on how bad the DS is - only joints needed?). if so, 20 bucks and an hour or two and you are good.
if you plan gears in the future, might get the alum DS now (relating to throwing good money after bad). :)
my two cents.
 
stangbro01 said:
thanks for ruining our economy bush :flag:

Just to let you know one man doesn't run the country...it is a democracy...many "checks and balances" occur before a policy can be exampled...

Don't blame the raised price of aluminum or FRPP's decision to raise the price on Bush...instead of blaming it on Mr. President...blame it on Mr. Supply and Demand... :)
 
I am with everyone else. I mainly bought my aluminum D/S because my U-joints were worn and at the time the price of the aluminum shaft versus the spare time I didn't have to replace my u-joints made it a good deal since it only took 10 minutes to put the new shaft on and I was figuring atleast three hours for me to do the u-joints since I had never done any. If the price were the same then as it is now I would have likely just done the u-joints.
 
yea i think im going to just buy the aluminum driveshaft. BEcause i just got a set of 3.73 gears, and i dont want to get any of the vibrations you guys are talking about. I dont have any problems with vibrations right now, but with the gear i definately dont want them.
 
5spd GT said:
Don't blame the raised price of aluminum or FRPP's decision to raise the price on Bush...instead of blaming it on Mr. President...blame it on Mr. Supply and Demand... :)
As well as Alan greenspan - he's the real Mr. economy.

Stangbro, know your facts before you go blaming people you feel "should" be at fault.
 
Sorry for bumping this old fella, but I was contemplating an Al driveshaft myself. However, it was more for performance reasons... lighter DS means less rotational inertia. I had thought of picking up this as well as a lightweight flywheel... no performance advantage? I had assumed it would spin up faster.
 
shootme5150 said:
Sorry for bumping this old fella, but I was contemplating an Al driveshaft myself. However, it was more for performance reasons... lighter DS means less rotational inertia. I had thought of picking up this as well as a lightweight flywheel... no performance advantage? I had assumed it would spin up faster.
David, et al will have more info on alum flywheels (where i think you might be heading with the remark about a lighter flywheel). seems folks dont really like them too much on drivers. my only experience with them is on european cars, which are a totally different animal (so i wont offer thoughts about it).

good luck.
 
shootme5150 said:
Sorry for bumping this old fella, but I was contemplating an Al driveshaft myself. However, it was more for performance reasons... lighter DS means less rotational inertia. I had thought of picking up this as well as a lightweight flywheel... no performance advantage? I had assumed it would spin up faster.


don't buy one for performance reasons, forget it. An alum shaft will cure driveshaft vibration problems. It will NOT free up any amount of power that you'll notice, nor consider it being worth it for the 3 bills you'll spend on it.
 
Yeah get the Al. driveshaft for vibe issues if you have any. www.buyfordracing.com still is selling them for $200 bucks...and you could get summitracing to price match for you to save a few bucks...

I would suggest against the Al. flywheel on a daily driver as mentioned:)...they are pricey/can be "torn up" from hard grabbing clutches/can cause a rougher start/and can effectively cause a bit slower launches. A road race car would be more ideal for something like that where you are in a higher spinning rpm for a longer period of time...

A billet steel flywheel would be a nice choice though for a daily driver. I'm fine with the stock replacement though...