aluminum flywheel good or bad??????
- Thread starter '88WhtNtchBck$
- Start date
It shouldn't make you slower. It may make starting from a dead stop a little harder but I'm sure you would get used to it. The aluminium doesn't have the same inertia once it is spinning as the steel flywheel has but I don't know if it would make you slower persay in a actual race. You could rev quicker with it but also the revs would drop quicker with it aswell. so think about that for the time between shifts.
Test show that the flywheel is good for about .5 reduction in the 1/4 with a good driver. You do need to launch different due to the flywheel being lighter but if you can get it down you will see a reduction in E.T. Also the thing I like is with the steel if the tires break loose it revs up to the limiter (causing you to shift or let off), with the aluminum flywheel it revs up but grabs (tires gain traction) once again before bouncing off the limiter (at least mine does). Plus you can only resurface a steel so many times, it costs $75 to put a new steel insert in your aluminum one if you ever need to.
Aluminum flywheel pros & cons.
Heavy car = heavy flywheel. The flywheel stores rotational energy to get your lead sled off the line without bogging. Use a heavy flywheel when all your power is in the upper RPM range and you want some kick when you dump the clutch at part throttle.
Lightweight car = lightweight flywheel. Excellent idea for a car with a stripped out interior and lightened using all the tricks. Keep in mind that when you dump the clutch, the RPM's will drop if you don't have lots of power to keep them up. Lightweight flywheels may bog off the line, but are great once you get rolling. They are the best for road race type applications where the engine is constantly running up & down the RPM range. . Less rotational mass means the engine will accelerate and decelerate quicker.
Heavy car = heavy flywheel. The flywheel stores rotational energy to get your lead sled off the line without bogging. Use a heavy flywheel when all your power is in the upper RPM range and you want some kick when you dump the clutch at part throttle.
Lightweight car = lightweight flywheel. Excellent idea for a car with a stripped out interior and lightened using all the tricks. Keep in mind that when you dump the clutch, the RPM's will drop if you don't have lots of power to keep them up. Lightweight flywheels may bog off the line, but are great once you get rolling. They are the best for road race type applications where the engine is constantly running up & down the RPM range. . Less rotational mass means the engine will accelerate and decelerate quicker.
LOL at 1/2 a second.
To whoever reads this, this is either a misprint or not accurate at all.
Even most sets of heads will not gain you that amount. Let alone a flywheel that weighs a whole 9 lbs less...
How many times do you plan on resurfacing the flywheel? How many clutches do you need to go thru? I have did 3 resurfacing's with no problem on one flywheel. I did 3 of them for $70, but if I did it the $80 dollar way thru Fidanza, I would spend $240
Fidanza makes some crappy cam gears for the 4.6L.
h8my408
Member
who cares? this is 5.0 tech!!! besides, that's one of their "expansion" products. stick with what makes them badass, ie. flywheels!
i just put in a 13lb fidanza flywheel on my 351w build, and the thing is STUPID! it revs so fast i have a hard time shifting at 5100, in the 1st and 2nd gear im usually shifting at 6000 because of the tires being blown away and it revving so fast and hard!!!
i need traction!
If you had a real estate agent rip-off a friend, but he promised not to rip you off, would you still invest in him and his practice?
One product to the next...
All that aside, the Fidanza flywheel is just fine for a budget build and if you want aluminum.
I noticed very little difference when a buddy of mind added an aluminum flywheel
A little more clutch engagement was needed when taking off and it revved faster in neutral
One product to the next...
All that aside, the Fidanza flywheel is just fine for a budget build and if you want aluminum.
I noticed very little difference when a buddy of mind added an aluminum flywheel
A little more clutch engagement was needed when taking off and it revved faster in neutral
twistedwankel
Member
Not particularly as you have a rolling start and only shift once into 2nd gear. I also believe torque suffers greatly. Might be some benefit in faster engine braking due to less stored energy?
To me the only noticable benefit is the engine revs much faster is all. I wouldn't spend the money unless I was really into racing bigtime.
I need a correction on my above post. I had the decimal place in the wrong spot (and the more I read it I knew something wasn't right).
A best ‘before’ of 13.713 was seen as apposed to a 13.651 for a reduction of 0.062 seconds. As for speed this only went up by a tenth of a mph. When the time honored drag strip weather corrections are applied the ET reduction rose to 0.077 seconds and the mph increase to two tenths of a mph. As for holding power the McLeod unit had it in spades. The test for this is to engage 4th gear, turn the engine up to about 5000 rpm and side step the clutch and mash the throttle at the same moment. When this was done the engine instantly stalled.
Here is the whole article http://www.gofastnews.com/board/technical-articles/128-mcleod-clutch-fidanza-flywheel-test.html
Wallzy
New Member
Torque does not suffer. When looking at a stepped dyno output, you will see exactly the same torque; however the system becomes slightly more efficient under dynamic conditions because you are reducing the overall system inertia. This allows you increases your overall angular acceleration in your system (motor & drivetrain), thus allowing the car to be quicker with the same power.
