aluminum head install ?s

[ponyboystroker]

hello,
i am getting ready to install my Airflow Research Heads onto my 347 and i have a few questions. The combo is as follows:

1991 5.0 stock Ford roller block punched .030 over
Probe Street Fighter 347 stroker kit w\ forged aluminum pistons and cast crank
-reciprocating assembly is balanced (obviously)
the block is at stock deck height it has not been zero decked
Ford Racing E-303 cam
AFR 185cc 2.02" 1.60" 61cc cumbustion chamber
Edelbrock Performer RPM fuel injected intake
70mm Edelbrock throttle body
73mm C&L mass air meter
30 lb./hr Ford Racing injectors

My questions are:

1. I planned on running 1.7 roller rockers with the heads and i just talked to a local speed shop that said the 1.7's wil be really hard on the valve seats,guides,etc. Is this true? Thaey also told me that the performance gain would not be much. I was told by Probe, which is where my heads came from that with 1.7's and the e-303 cam that i would be up to .520 lift. Is it worth it to use the 1.7's or should I go with 1.6s. The car is kind of a daily driver with occasional drag duty, i like to have some kind of dependability, I also don't want to ruin an expensive heads, but i would like to get as much power as possible for now out of the engine without doing porting work or power adders.

2. I want to stud the the block for the cylinder heads and i an wondering if i will need shims on the heads where the nuts will tighten down?

3. i want to "mock" the engine before it is fired to check clearances,etc. i have never done this before i was told to put play dough on the pistons and set everything up like it would be when the engine is assembled and turn it by hand, is this correct? When "mocking" the engine do i want to have the head gaskets installed and do i torque the heads to the recommended spec?

4. i also need to find out what size of pushrods to use, i was told about a tool that i saw in jegs that is a pushrod length checker is this what i want to use?

5. How do i make sure that the roller rockers are centered on the valve tip?

6. Will the 1.6s and 1.7 work with the stock 1991 valve covers?



horsepower to the people,
ponyboystroker

 

[dug]

so many questions, i wish i could answer them but im not smart enough...yet. in reguards to question #3 i'd think you would have to install the heads with them torqued down and with whatever type of headgasket you will be using when it is running. maybe somebody else with experience can chime in too, ill be waiting to here also

 

[RIO5.0]

#3...place your heads on and lightly tighten them, no gasket....set-up the valvetrain and rotate the motor couple times around....pull it apart and check the clearance...then ADD your gasket thickness to the dim you get.....
Good that your doing it, when its on a stand its easy to check, and its nice to dry run everything too..

 

[93cobra12]

i have 1.7 r r with 185 afr heads, it really depends on the cam you choose.. that determines if you should use the 1.7's or the 1.6's....

 

[matm347]

Alright.....

1... 1.6 will be a LITTLE easier on your valve train....but you will keep it under 6500(assuming) so using the 1.7(which both open/close the valves quicker and give more cam lift) would be of benefit in your case. I am using 1.72s and a larger cam over 6500 with no problems.

2... If you are using the 7/16 studs you will need adaptor washers since your heads have 1/2" holes. These are not expensive and may even come with the studs(check when ordering).

3. Just as RIO5.0 said above, hand tight with no gasket...setup one intake/one exhaust and make sure no contact(turn GENTLY when the valves open, valves are easily bent!).

4/5... It will make buying the correct pushrods much easier with the tool..... After you have the heads on and torqued, mock up a cylinder once more using the tool, you'll want the roller tip to ride in the middle of the valve tip throughout the open/close process......use some assembly "blue" if needed....its similar to grease and is used to see where things contact.

6..yes, they will require that the oil baffle be taken out, and possibly some die grinder work...again....test fit with no gaskets.

 

[blown93feature]

if you have e- cam keep you rocker spec @1.70 no more check for clearence! and yes you will add botom end torque. as far as spacers i believe you will be using 7/16 studs and if afr is like trick flow there set up for 1/2 inch studs.use molly assembly lube.

 

[Michael Yount]

Given the investment you have in that motor, I think I'd see if I could get someone that's been through the drill before to help you put the last bits together - especially the p to v clearance issue. Are you sure that's the cam you want with the stroker?

 

[ponyboystroker]

#3...place your heads on and lightly tighten them, no gasket....set-up the valvetrain and rotate the motor couple times around....pull it apart and check the clearance...then ADD your gasket thickness to the dim you get.....
Good that your doing it, when its on a stand its easy to check, and its nice to dry run everything too..

Is it true that i want to put play dough on the pistons to check the clearances?

 

[1Stang2Go]

Plasti-gauge. The valves will leave an impression in the clay. Check the thickness of the clay and make sure its in spec...