aluminum intakes are here!!!!

hotmustang331 · Dec 16, 2005

Well the thing thats getting me is the powerband rating (1500-6500) I know the stock manifold isnt close to that. It looks like the stocker, so if the runners arent shorter or larger, then its not worth it. The pic just looks like a aluminum PI manifold We shall see though.

DBMSTNG · Dec 17, 2005

hotmustang331 said:
Well the thing thats getting me is the powerband rating (1500-6500) I know the stock manifold isnt close to that. It looks like the stocker, so if the runners arent shorter or larger, then its not worth it. The pic just looks like a aluminum PI manifold We shall see though.

how do you know the runners aren't shorter or longer? unless you've seen a pic of the front of it, you can't tell sheet from the top only pic.

rpburnette · Dec 17, 2005

Someone mentioned heat soak. This might be a problem if you are doing very short drives, as the Al intake will absorb heat faster, however if you are doing short drives, i.e. racing, this effect can be negated by using ice to cool the intake betweent runs.

If you are just driving around and the engine is running for say 20 minutes or more, the engine compartment will be heated. It doesn't matter what kind of material the intake is, the intake will be the same temperture or at least close enough that it won't make any difference. Sure if you are worried about 1-2 Hp, than it is a big deal, but it will not drop the power to a noticable level.

Gearbanger 101 · Dec 17, 2005

rpburnette said:
If you are just driving around and the engine is running for say 20 minutes or more, the engine compartment will be heated. It doesn't matter what kind of material the intake is, the intake will be the same temperture or at least close enough that it won't make any difference. Sure if you are worried about 1-2 Hp, than it is a big deal, but it will not drop the power to a noticable level.

Really.......I disagree. Go take a car with an aluminum manifold around the block a few times or through stop and go traffic in summer weather (which oddly enough is very similar to the line ups you face on a busy weekend at the track) and see how it feels to put your hand on it. Now, go do the same with your Mustang running it’s stock PI manifold and place your hand on one of the intake runners. The fact that it's not searing off your fingerprints should tell you that there's a huge temperature between the two. I’d bet a couple of hundred degree difference at minimum. This is going to make a difference, however small to the temperature of the incoming air charge. And by your admission for the need for one to place bags of ice on the aluminum manifold to keep intake temperatures at bay also confirms this. Doing this same trick to a plastic manifold will net better results still.

DBMSTNG · Dec 17, 2005

Gearbanger 101 said:
I’d bet a couple of hundred degree difference at minimum.

i'll take that bet! how much? $100

Gearbanger 101 · Dec 17, 2005

Ok....maybe that was a bit of an exageration, but I'll let you know when I take the temp reading between the two this summer. Either way, the Aluminum intake will get MUCH hotter.

stang2000 · Dec 17, 2005

Never buy from RPM Outlet

I'd never recommend buying from this company. I got stiffed $70.00 for a defective part I returnd to them. I never received a new part or reimburshed. This company is not worth my time. Spread the word. There are other companies to buy products from. Even though this specific one may not be available through other companies, wait till it is. Just my opinion. I'm trying to save everyone headaches from getting ripped off.

helty · Dec 17, 2005

stang2000 said:
I'd never recommend buying from this company. I got stiffed $70.00 for a defective part I returnd to them. I never received a new part or reimburshed. This company is not worth my time. Spread the word. There are other companies to buy products from. Even though this specific one may not be available through other companies, wait till it is. Just my opinion. I'm trying to save everyone headaches from getting ripped off.

they shipped TWO seperate orders to the WRONG ADDRESS!!!! the first time i thought it was an honest mistake, but the second time i callled my order in and specifically explained to them what happened the first time and NOT to ship to Pennsylvania, DO SHIP TO MY Arkansas address. (yes, my address in Arkansas IS listed on my credit card as an alternate address, and I told them that both times) where do you think it ended up? a lot of good their free shipping did me. neither time did they offer any reimbursement for me having to pay out of my own pocket to have my order shipped to the correct address. they offered no reconciliation at all. both times i called to complain they didnt seem too concerned.

crapola

I would have ordered from MT but RPM was closer and i wanted my stuff before the weekend. Big mistake. Order from RPM Outlet at your OWN RISK

hotmustang331 · Dec 17, 2005

DBMSTNG said:
how do you know the runners aren't shorter or longer? unless you've seen a pic of the front of it, you can't tell sheet from the top only pic.

I cant . I was just saying that if they arent, then there will be no gain....that will tell the tell if its just an aluminum knock off, or a REALLY new design. P&Ping ability wont be worth it unless there are some internal changes. Our intake choices suck lol. (we need heads for a BB 302/324 engine so thay can stuff bigger valves in it, then a matching intake with large runners to match perfectly with the new heads ...there I go dreaming lol.)

Dark Knight GT · Dec 18, 2005

hotmustang331 said:
I cant . I was just saying that if they arent, then there will be no gain....that will tell the tell if its just an aluminum knock off, or a REALLY new design. P&Ping ability wont be worth it unless there are some internal changes. Our intake choices suck lol. (we need heads for a BB 302/324 engine so thay can stuff bigger valves in it, then a matching intake with large runners to match perfectly with the new heads ...there I go dreaming lol.)

I honestly don't know if this is just a knock off piece, or if it is a different design. It's hard to say at this point. What I do know is that the intake being offered by HPS is going to be of a different design, in which it will have 2-3 times more internal surface space for airflow, and since it's completely aluminum with a removeable bottom, it will allow for porting the runners, and you can even shorted the runners by removing sections of the "tower". Least that is the claim on their site. Let's just keep our fingers crossed.

If anyone is interested, send HPS some emails, and let them know that you want in on a group purchase. Bob at HPS is all for the idea of a group purchase when the intake is released. There is literally like 200+ people on the mailing list now for that intake.

White Stang · Dec 18, 2005

The power intake is right here ReichardRacing

and for a N/A stang get the bullitt intake

Both off these have been around for years and work well with mods

DBMSTNG · Dec 18, 2005

White Stang said:
The power intake is right here ReichardRacing

and for a N/A stang get the bullitt intake

Both off these have been around for years and work well with mods

and both cost an arm and a leg.

helty · Dec 18, 2005

^^^and how much does THAT cost? probably in the same range as the Bullitt and P-51 right?

Gearbanger 101 · Dec 18, 2005

DBMSTNG said:
and both cost an arm and a leg.

helty said:
^^^and how much does THAT cost? probably in the same range as the Bullitt and P-51 right?

Well, would you guys rather pay a little more for the real world proven power of a Bullitt, or P51, or 3-times the going rate for a knock off aluminum version of a PI intake that nets you next to no gains at all……the choice seems clear to me? It's been no secret that performance parts for a modular engine are on average 2 and 3-times the cost of performance parts for an old 5.0L, yet people are still trying to nickel and dime their way through it. If you want it to perform, you’ve got to suck it up and spend the money.

helty · Dec 18, 2005

Gearbanger 101 said:
Well, would you guys rather pay a little more for the real world proven power of a Bullitt, or P51, or 3-times the going rate for a knock off aluminum version of a PI intake that nets you next to no gains at all……the choice seems clear to me? It's been no secret that performance parts for a modular engine are on average 2 and 3-times the cost of performance parts for an old 5.0L, yet people are still trying to nickel and dime their way through it. If you want it to perform, you’ve got to suck it up and spend the money.

when you're in college and you have all the bills of someone with a real job, nickle and diming it is a way of life

anyway, i wasnt trying to imply that i'd rather buy the new PP intake over the RR, P-51 or Bullitt. until i see proven dyno results on a bolt-on or stock GT by several members of SN or another forum, it just looks like an aluminum knock-off to me.

in my case, i've realized buying a bolt-on every month or two just isnt worth it, hence the reason im saving for a mongoose kit, and hopefully by next fall it will be installed by Dynospeed Racing in Memphis. hopefully that will satisfy my Ass-Ometer until i get my doctorate in 5 years and have a full motor built.

i know you have to pay to play, and im sure the RR intake makes awesome power on an FI motor, but even if it would make say... 25hp on a N/A 2V, i cant justify spending $1500 on it (right now anyway) its the same way i have a hard time spending the extra $100 on an Accufab Plenum just for an extra 1-2 hp. no doubt the RR is an awesome looking piece, and when the day comes that i can afford a shortblock and step up to a bigger centri, hopefully i'll have money growing out my ass and wont think twice about spending $1500 on the RR intake.

my guess is the reason a lot of people are turned away from the prices of these intakes is for one, they cant afford it. and 2: a lot of us that have 2V now grew up reading about the 5.0, which had more than enough intake options that went between $400-$500 and made significant gains on a N/A stock motor. maybe on some level we're still holding out for hope that the same will eventually happen for the 2V, although it never will. fact is we all know the aftermarket has all but shunned Intake manifolds and cylinder heads for the 4.6 when compared to the old 5.0 days.

Gearbanger 101 · Dec 18, 2005

helty said:
when you're in college and you have all the bills of someone with a real job, nickle and diming it is a way of life

anyway, i wasnt trying to imply that i'd rather buy the new PP intake over the RR, P-51 or Bullitt. until i see proven dyno results on a bolt-on or stock GT by several members of SN or another forum, it just looks like an aluminum knock-off to me.

in my case, i've realized buying a bolt-on every month or two just isnt worth it, hence the reason im saving for a mongoose kit, and hopefully by next fall it will be installed by Dynospeed Racing in Memphis. hopefully that will satisfy my Ass-Ometer until i get my doctorate in 5 years and have a full motor built.

i know you have to pay to play, and im sure the RR intake makes awesome power on an FI motor, but even if it would make say... 25hp on a N/A 2V, i cant justify spending $1500 on it (right now anyway) its the same way i have a hard time spending the extra $100 on an Accufab Plenum just for an extra 1-2 hp. no doubt the RR is an awesome looking piece, and when the day comes that i can afford a shortblock and step up to a bigger centri, hopefully i'll have money growing out my ass and wont think twice about spending $1500 on the RR intake.

my guess is the reason a lot of people are turned away from the prices of these intakes is for one, they cant afford it. and 2: a lot of us that have 2V now grew up reading about the 5.0, which had more than enough intake options that went between $400-$500 and made significant gains on a N/A stock motor. maybe on some level we're still holding out for hope that the same will eventually happen for the 2V, although it never will. fact is we all know the aftermarket has all but shunned Intake manifolds and cylinder heads for the 4.6 when compared to the old 5.0 days.

I hear what you're saying and agree for the most part. Although, if a Mongoose kit is in your future (or anyone’s for that matter) then it would make even more sense for a person not to buy this one and keep saving for the Bullitt, P51 or equivalent. A person should spend their money on things now, which will support their projected goals in the future.

That Accufab Plenum may not give you much now, but when the blower is on, it will perform head over heals better than the stock one. The same goes for pieces like throttle bodies. Yeah a 75mm may be overkill on a stock motor and spending the few dollars extra on it may not seem necessary at the moment, but a high flowing throttle body is essential to best performance in a blown application. So you might find yourself wanting to upgrade again down the road, when you could have just paid a few dollars more at initial purchase and saved yourself the money and hassle in the future.

My thoughts tend to lean in the same direction with this intake. Even if it does perform better than the stock unit currently, it's going to be marginal at best. Yes the higher performing intakes are going to be more expensive initially, but down the road when the blower is on there, you're sure going to be glad that you bought it then and are now not having to find someone to unload this thing on, to try to make some of your money back to pay for an intake that would have been better suited form the beginning. Not to mention that you now have to rip the top of your engine off again.

This statement isn’t directed at you specifically BTW....just a general rant.

helty · Dec 18, 2005

Gearbanger 101 said:
This statement isn’t directed at you specifically BTW....just a general rant.

..... .........crapola .........

i know what you mean man, and i agree with everything you said. after deciding to go FI i probably will get the Accufab flag 75mm T/B + Plenum. i should've specified that i was referring to the reults it produces on a N/A bolt-on 2V.

and i also agree about the manifold thing. if i had an extra $1500 laying around, or could save an extra $1500 between now and next fall, i'd definitely go with the RR manifold, and probably will when i have the money to do so. but for now i only plan on making about 375-385 at the flywheel bc im still gonna have the stock internals, so i dont wanna push the envelope. i'll stick to the stock plastic manifold (for now) and put $500 or so into the rear end: 31 splines and a stronger diff, maybe weld the axle tubes and torque boxes.

Cliff Notes: I Rule!

Dark Knight GT · Dec 18, 2005

I'm not meaning to "bash" the P-51 intake, but after seeing the back to back dyno comparison between the P-51 intake in comparison to the Dragon plenum mated wtih the stock lower intake performed by AFM, I have to say I'm not impressed in the least bit with the P-51 intake. The P-51 intake actually made less power in their tests all the way up until 4,500rpm, and then it made about equal power with the dragon elbow on the stock lower intake. It was only until past 5,000rpms did the P-51 intake make anymore power than the Dragon intake elbow, and up till past 6,000, the extra power gain in favor of the P-51 was only a few ponies.

So, unless if you're going to be reving your motor till 7,000+ rpms and/or you have forced induction planned for the future, I don't see where a P-51 intake is worth it at all. You would be better off just purchasing a good plenum/tb combination for around 300-400 dollars, and run it on the stock intake than you would sinking 1300-1500 dollars into the P-51 intake. I won't even get into the fitment issues people have had with the stock hood.

As for the Bullit intake, there is no question in my mind it is a good intake. Full aluminum, and has been proven to add more power than the stock intake setup from idle to redline. However, the Bullit intake requires both upper and lower manifolds, which will run around 700-800 dollars brand new just for that. You then have to buy the throttle body, which brand new will run around 250-350 dollars. You also have to buy a new alternator, as the stock GT alternator is not compatible with the Bullit intake manifold, and brand new thats another easy 200-300 dollars, if not more. All together, the Bullit intake, between all the main and miscelaneous parts can easily run 1500+ dollars. That is really expensive for what little power it adds n/a, unless if you have serious internal mods. Believe me, if it could be purchased brand new for cheaper than 1,000 dollars, I'm sure many of us would be all over the Bullit intake option.

As for the Reichard Racing intake, I've heard various responses about it. Some people say they've had idling problems with them on street cars, and I've yet to see anyone with any before/after dyno's on a near stock n/a GT for the RR intake.

Because of all the above information, this is why so many people are hoping for an affordable all aluminum intake that will make more power than the stock setup, will not cost us with n/a motors a huge loss in low end torque, will provide the durability of all aluminum design, and best of all, won't cost us an arm and a leg to purchase.

hotmustang331 · Dec 18, 2005

Dark Knight GT said:
I honestly don't know if this is just a knock off piece, or if it is a different design. It's hard to say at this point. What I do know is that the intake being offered by HPS is going to be of a different design, in which it will have 2-3 times more internal surface space for airflow, and since it's completely aluminum with a removeable bottom, it will allow for porting the runners, and you can even shorted the runners by removing sections of the "tower". Least that is the claim on their site. Let's just keep our fingers crossed.

If anyone is interested, send HPS some emails, and let them know that you want in on a group purchase. Bob at HPS is all for the idea of a group purchase when the intake is released. There is literally like 200+ people on the mailing list now for that intake.

Shoot, I would LOVE to have it, but I dont want on the mailing list till I find out HOW much lol. If its say around $500 then I can swing it...but if its like in the bullitts price range, then forget it. If they make another 1000+ dollar intake its not going to mean anything to most of us...we want an affordable intake...not just more options . But maybe aI will Email them and explain my position, that I will buy it solely on price. Maybe the group buy thing will net a REALLY good discount lol

DBMSTNG · Dec 18, 2005

Gearbanger 101 said:
Well, would you guys rather pay a little more for the real world proven power of a Bullitt, or P51, or 3-times the going rate for a knock off aluminum version of a PI intake that nets you next to no gains at all……the choice seems clear to me? It's been no secret that performance parts for a modular engine are on average 2 and 3-times the cost of performance parts for an old 5.0L, yet people are still trying to nickel and dime their way through it. If you want it to perform, you’ve got to suck it up and spend the money.

a little more?? try 2-3 times as much. you have no idea whether or not the typhoon intake is going to make power. so until the results come out, you're just pissing in the wind.

aluminum intakes are here!!!!

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