Analog White Face Air Fuel Ratio Gauges
- Thread starter Noobz347
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I'm not sure it's a brand thing anymore as much as it is ensuring that the gauge you got is compatible with what you already have. The choices appear to be (in no particular order): 5V electric, CANBus (digital signal processing/conversion), and proprietary (designed to operate with only their gear).
So, find one you like the look of and make certain it's the correct type. That site that WhiteCobra posted above, appears to have each kind available in at least, the first two categories.
Out of curiosity, once the car is tuned and running right why would someone really need an actual gauge?
As for the analog thing, I absolutely agree. From just a visual standpoint they are era correct.
I don't think I've ever seen digital anything look right in a foxbody.
As for the analog thing, I absolutely agree. From just a visual standpoint they are era correct.
I don't think I've ever seen digital anything look right in a foxbody.
I don't think they're as much of a necessity, if you will, for EFI cars. But they can help with carbureted cars during road trips and such with altitude adjustments. Since mine doesn't go on road trips to speak of, I'm just looking at one for tuning the Holley. I've NEVER tuned it, even before swapping manifolds. But since the swap it seems to be running PIG rich! I knew it ran a little rich before, but it's horrible now!!
Assuming that those things are true and variation isn't a possibility, aesthetics.
Pretty sweet that you can customize.
I have a little. And by a little I mean I've changed the jets and power valves. This particular carb I got in pieces and had to put it all back together. So I have some experience with it but I wouldn't even remotely consider myself an expert.
It’s really not an absolute requirement, but still nice to have just to glance over every once in awhile for peace of mind.
Imo if you go through all the trouble of buying and installing one (not that there’s all that much to it), you may as well leave it where you can see it.
Well one of the mistakes people make is with the throttle blade adjustment, they uncover too much of the idle slot and that makes adjustment elsewhere nearly impossible. Too much stuff to get into here but holley have a great guide online.
Yeah, for mine it's more at WOT or anytime the secondaries are opened. I think if I just disconnected the secondaries it wouldn't be near as rich, but I really want to play with the carb and get it right. It actually performs well, just runs pig rich. You've seen the dyno vid of it? When the operator opens it up you can see the smoke billowing out of the garage. I've noticed it while driving from time to time, so it's been rich for a while, but that video as well as the dyno numbers really make me want to get it more or less nailed down.
I have another carburetor just sitting in the carport, a 600 vacuum secondary, that I'd like to get rebuilt and tuned as well so I can do a kind of comparison. I was going to use it for the ex's 67 when I got around to swapping the 6 for a V8 but we all know where that car is now......
I have another carburetor just sitting in the carport, a 600 vacuum secondary, that I'd like to get rebuilt and tuned as well so I can do a kind of comparison. I was going to use it for the ex's 67 when I got around to swapping the 6 for a V8 but we all know where that car is now......
I think I may differ in opinion with some of you guys.
I absolutely do not like any mounting solutions for aftermarket gauges.
I now have a radio plate that I had powdercoated textured black (looks damn close to shifter bezel) with 2-2 1/16 gauges for water temp and oil pressure mounted under the radio with black autometer (green letters to match the stock cluster).
For me, it's the best of the worst location.
The pillar is tacky (been there, done that)
And in the AC vents got old (not to mention, the white face thing wore off and just didn't seem right to me anymore)
For me, the less gauges i need, the less places i have to put them.
So if the info could be datalogged, the car tuned and the gauge put away, that would be my first choice.
I absolutely do not like any mounting solutions for aftermarket gauges.
I now have a radio plate that I had powdercoated textured black (looks damn close to shifter bezel) with 2-2 1/16 gauges for water temp and oil pressure mounted under the radio with black autometer (green letters to match the stock cluster).
For me, it's the best of the worst location.
The pillar is tacky (been there, done that)
And in the AC vents got old (not to mention, the white face thing wore off and just didn't seem right to me anymore)
For me, the less gauges i need, the less places i have to put them.
So if the info could be datalogged, the car tuned and the gauge put away, that would be my first choice.
You will not find any 'Fox Install' gauges in my interior. At least not what we've come to know as the typical examples.
Don't get me wrong, I like the 2 and 3 gauge pillar pods but I also like them installed so they look like part of the interior.
It doesn't have to be OEM for me but it should at least look like it could have been.
Kinda why I'm going through the trouble of having matching gauge faces
They'll get the same amber bulbs that I have in my OEM cluster.Not too much different than painting some portion of the engine bay so that it looks better. My Vac/Boost gauge - Necessity. Fuel gauge - Necessity. AFR is the nxt most useful gauge to have and I'd prefer to have it vs. not having it.
A good portion of that may come from sitting at the flight engineer's panel for several thousand hours
We commonly put a wideband in customer cars, use them to tune the mega/microsquirt, and then put them in the glove box. Done 3 c-10s this way
You can always do the same with a fox.
