Car is overheating. It has a brand new radiator, 180 t-stat, and autometer temp gauge. I ran the car up to operating temp with the cap off. The temp still climbs past 210, which is obviously too hot, especially with the t-stat i have. I can feel the rad hose getting hot around 180, so i'm pretty sure the t-stat is opening. I dont see any coolant coming out of the rad through the cap though, should i? Is it possible i dont have enough coolant in the car? Also there is steam coming out of the weep hole on the water pump once it gets really hot, but i assume thats simply because its hotter than it needs to be. Is it possible i installed the t-stat wrong?
Another cooling problems, but i've tried all the solutions commonly suggested...
- Thread starter BaXTeR3221
- Start date
it is possible to install a stat backwards. the weep hole should have nothing comin out of it. Are you sure the system is bled? When you have it running with the cap off and you think the stat opens, (Being very careful and all that), is the coolant flowing from the pass side toward the driver side?
I would want to be sure the stat is a quality piece, installed correctly, and that the system is bled. This is all assuming that your fan is up to the task (I assume you have the car idling stationary while doing all this).
Good luck.
I would want to be sure the stat is a quality piece, installed correctly, and that the system is bled. This is all assuming that your fan is up to the task (I assume you have the car idling stationary while doing all this).
Good luck.
Curse
Member
HISSIN50 said:
My car would heat up like that too, I had a new cheap 180* new radiator and I bleed the system, out of desperation I changed the T-stat to a Mr. Gasket 180* T-stat and my problem was gone. Good Luck.i just got the regular t-stat, i guess i could have gotten the more expensive one. I'm not sure the system is bled, but it ran for a long time with the cap off. I can feel the hose heating up so i assume its opening like it should. I dont see any fluid moving in the rad, is it possible there isn't enough in there?
ALMOSTFINISHED
Member
If I were you I would go ahead and jack the drivers side front of the car up in the air. It will help get any more air pockets out of the system. They are pesky and can make people rip there own hair out. Let it run and cycle a for a while with the car up in the air like that. You'll be surprised how many bubbles come out of it. I would also go ahead and snag a Mr. gasket t-stat just for safety. Good luck.
Nick
Nick
I would go with the Mr. Gasket therm. since its only like 12 bucks shipped and see if that fixes your problem. Also put your radiator cap on let the system pressurize and sqeeze the top radiator hose to make sure it has pressure. (should be some what hard) when you let go it should instantly repressurize. If not then you may have a bad water pump. Also check your ignition timing sometimes when your timing is off it can make the car run hotter than usual. Just a few more things to think about.
Another vote for the Mr Gasket stat (I very much like the stat and like to think that I helped get some guys on here using those - I am a big fan of them).
Agreed with Nick and jacking the driver side up. I start with a cold motor, jack up the driver side, let it run with no cap for about 20 mins and generally have good luck.
If one has had the system way open, removing the ECT initially can help air bleed out at that spot. Guys who have a threaded fitting on their stat housing sometimes remove that plug to let air purge.
None of that last stuff should be necessary.
If you have pockets of air in there, steam is entirely possible (which is HORRIBLE for the system). steam pockets hitting the back of the stat can take the stat out right then and there. A balanced stat helps save the stat, via the nature of the shrouding on the stat.
Good luck.
Agreed with Nick and jacking the driver side up. I start with a cold motor, jack up the driver side, let it run with no cap for about 20 mins and generally have good luck.
If one has had the system way open, removing the ECT initially can help air bleed out at that spot. Guys who have a threaded fitting on their stat housing sometimes remove that plug to let air purge.
None of that last stuff should be necessary.
If you have pockets of air in there, steam is entirely possible (which is HORRIBLE for the system). steam pockets hitting the back of the stat can take the stat out right then and there. A balanced stat helps save the stat, via the nature of the shrouding on the stat.
Good luck.
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