Another dreaded cold-air intake question.

[fox-gt]

I have been searching the forum on cold-air intakes. Some users say you gain nothing, others say to remove the air silencer and use a K&N filter. Mine is completely stock (including the silencer). I want to get a cold-air kit like the MAC or BBK, because it really dresses up the engine. Is there any difference in the MAC or BBK vs a generic one like this - http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7927710379&category=38634

I know this topic has been beaten into the ground, but I really appericate your feedback.

 

[super302]

if you want to dress it up, sure get a cheap one, if you just want a little jump in performance for a little amount of money just do the k&n panel filter with removed silencer(what i did )

 

[Daggar]

About the only difference I've seen with cold air intakes are the ones that compare metal parts with plastic ones. The manufacturers of the plastic ones spout gains due to the insulative property of plastic vs. the heat absorbtion they say is a product of those metal parts being in the engine compartment. That may be real or it may not be real. I've never dynoed one of each personally to find out. What they say makes sense however, you also have to keep in mind that even with metal parts, that intake air constantly moving through those metal tubes. I would think that any advantage gained would be minimal and that a readable gain could only be had from initially starting and running an already warmed engine. Even plastic parts will allow heat penetration when surrounded by it and the metal parts would be cooled by constantly running intake air (which would make those parts cooler than ambient engine compartment air). If anything... it seems like the metal parts would have a more stable temp from one end to the other. In a nut shell... 1 or two HP either way isn't worth what a great looking engine compartment is IMO.

 

[criticman]

I bought a similar one on eBay...I like it (no power gain over the K&N and silencer removed though - maybe a little noise difference).

Yes, it dresses it up. It also frees up a little room in the front to put things like an MSD ignition system or other items.

A current listing for the one I bought (from the same seller): http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=38634&item=7927962566&rd=1

 

[Legendary]

I'm not gonna flame for not using the search. I'll just pass on the knowledge:

http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=508249

 

[criticman]

I'm not gonna flame for not using the search. I'll just pass on the knowledge:

http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=508249

I think he did check the forum based on his post. He just wanted to know difference in generic vs. non-generic. I posted on that other thread from some days back...it was more about CAI vs stock box w/ no silencer and K&N.

Anyway, I'm not an admin so I could care less.

 

[Joe 5.0]

I got one off ebay for $40 and it works well and looks tons better than the black plastic Densecharger I had. I could tell no hp difference.

The metal tube does get hot, but only when its very humid/hot out, and I'm sitting in traffic. When I'm driving it stays as cool as the stock or densecharger tube.

 

[criticman]

I got one off ebay for $40 and it works well and looks tons better than the black plastic Densecharger I had. I could tell no hp difference.

The metal tube does get hot, but only when its very humid/hot out, and I'm sitting in traffic. When I'm driving it stays as cool as the stock or densecharger tube.

Yeah, i am considering insulating the tubing from my eBay one to further protect it from the heat of the engine bay.

 

[fox-gt]

I'm not gonna flame for not using the search. I'll just pass on the knowledge:

http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=508249

I'm not gonna flame you for not reading my post carefully. I was asking about the generic vs bbk and mac, not the HP difference. I did search before I posted.

 

[qtrracer]

I have a MAC and a WMS CAI on my two cars. The MAC is chromed and over time is starting to show signs of rust. The WMS is ceramic coated and not only stays cooler than the MAC, it doesn't rust (but will scratch). SOP seems better but no dyno data to prove it.

 

[donsbad68]

no power difference then K&N drop in and a removed air silencer.....plus the K&N has a million mile warrenty while the cheap-o's have??

 

[autoXr1]

Cold air intakes do work. That is, those particular ones that actually let cool air into the engine and don't get heat-soaked from being inside the engine bay.

The other thing to consider is the internal diameter of the intake pipe. That intake pipe should be at least as wide as your MAF and TB or else it creates a restriction. Sounds like a no brainer, but you'd be amazed at what is out there.

Anderson Ford Motorsport's "Power Pipe" now come with an HTS coating to reduce heat soak (looks good too) and comes with either a 3.5" or 4" pipe. It also mounts your MAF in the fenderwell to reduce the effects of fanwash, gets the MAF away from the hot engine, and "cleans up" the engine compartment. This product actually works. Many a NMRA racer can't be wrong.

 

[Highbredcloud]

from what I know a CAI only creates turbulance when the air enters the intake...no cold air at all...sort of like the tornado effect or whatever the hell the spacer thing is...It's a wast of money...as far as Anderson's powerpipe...you need a bigger intake than just the stock intake to even notice anything...the pipe itself is bigger the the intake...which makes me question how effectively does the air get into the intake without losing velocity...? Pro-M makes a big mouth elbow tube that goes from the MAF to the BT which is 4 inches and goes down to 3 inches allowing greater velocity...I think that elbow is $20.00 but than you would need a new MAF which would not be a bad idea if you are running the stock bottle neck one...

 

[Daggar]

from what I know a CAI only creates turbulance when the air enters the intake...no cold air at all...sort of like the tornado effect or whatever the hell the spacer thing is...It's a wast of money...as far as Anderson's powerpipe...you need a bigger intake than just the stock intake to even notice anything...the pipe itself is bigger the the intake...which makes me question how effectively does the air get into the intake without losing velocity...? Pro-M makes a big mouth elbow tube that goes from the MAF to the BT which is 4 inches and goes down to 3 inches allowing greater velocity...I think that elbow is $20.00 but than you would need a new MAF which would not be a bad idea if you are running the stock bottle neck one...

Velocity doesn't become a factor until it hits the intake. That'll be determined largely by the match of the intake runners ability to induct air vs. the rest of the engine combo to use that air. Until that point; Volume would be the only consideration and AutoXr1 is right on the money.

Onto another issue: Someone up there talked about insulating the tubing. What about trying that rubber coating used for tool handles and stuff? It's a liquid that comes in a can. Trouble would be to find some way to to apply it evenly to just the inside so it would still be shiny and perty on the outside.

 

[autoXr1]

The AFM Power Pipe works well with the Pro-M shortie MAF and the Accufab race TBs. Both of these units feature a wide "mouth" and taper down to the actual opening for improved flow characteristics.

I understand the importance of velocity once it passes the throttle body and enters the intake and why having too large of TB may hurt part-throttle performance. However, I haven't seen any info that flow velocity upstream from the throttle body effects performance, or not.

 

[Michael Yount]

Go here for a bit more info on the cold air intake vs. stock box/no silencer/K&N test.

http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2002/03/coldair/

I had to create an intake for mine, and I used Walker exhaust mandrel bent ells in different radii - 3.5" upstream of the maf; 3" downstream of the maf. I wrapped them with 1" wide rock-wool strip, and held that in place with black rubber/stretch tape. Works great to insulate the steel ells, and looks sort of factory. If you'd like to see pics, pm me with your email address.

 

[5spd GT]

Air travels so quickly through the pipe I really doubt (even as quick as air can heat up) is affected by whether it is metal or rubber...