another overheating thread....sorry need help

93GTosu

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May 5, 2005
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sorry to add a new "overheating thread" but i've been searching and cant figure out where to start.

Last week i was on the highway and glanced at the temp gauge (autometer electric) and saw it was at 210. I thought, no big deal its like 95* outside. Within a few more miles i new something was up as it was climbing over 210 towards 220. I pulled over into the rest area and pop the hood to let it cool off for awhile. Managed to get it home without going over 220ish degrees.

I had figured it was something to do with the heat outside, so i took it out for a spin at night once it cooled down to the 70s. Sadly, once the car starts to heat up...it doesnt stop. It just keeps going until its overheating.

i was worried i had another intake/heat gasket problem but i changed the oil to be safe and its fine. here's a rundown of my cooling parts:

-stock original rad and fan
-mr. gasket 180* tstat (6months old)
-ford racing replacement waterpump (6months old)
-underdrive pullies but they've been on for 2 1/2 years no problem
-replaced the rad. cap today but that didnt fix it

now this is the first time my new P combo has been run in 90+ temperatures, but it continued to overheat even when i took it out at night in the cooler air. Coolant is fine, bright green and none missing.

i've had it suggested that my rad is getting clogged and not doing its job. It is 14 years old and i imagine it's pretty nasty in there. Is it worth it to try and flush anything out of it or should i look into a newer radiator?? if yes, which one??

:(

edit: overheats on highway OR city driving after about 10-20 minutes of easy driving. no cats btw.
 
I bought an AutoZone radiator a few years back. Under $100 and its got a lifetime warranty. My old radiator was getting rotted out and paper thin in alot of places.

A new radiator will help. How old is the fan clutch?
 
I'd agree. Your OEM radiator has to have seen better days. The accepted figure for a proper functioning radiator is about 5 years with good maintenance. After that performance starts to degrade (even if we don't notice anything).

Now would be the time to do a 3G and electric fan if you desire. It's a decent bet your OEM fan clutch has seen better days, as has the plastic fan (the latter is prone to cracking). The clutches tend to get loose when they get old (sometimes they get tight instead, and if that's the case, replacing it would not be as necessary).

Good luck.

EDIT: when you say it overheats, does it literally boil over? If so, there's likely a lack of pressure in the system. I assumed above that you just meant that it is running hotter than you'd like.
 
I have the same problem!!

Well I have the same problem but I already change my rad and my water pump but still gettin hott......OOO and I also change my head gaskets except the headers gaskets, would that be the problem or is somethin else or should i change my thermostat???
 
EDIT: when you say it overheats, does it literally boil over? If so, there's likely a lack of pressure in the system. I assumed above that you just meant that it is running hotter than you'd like.

i popped the hood but i couldnt hear it boiling or anything. it was at about 225*. That is much hotter than i'd like. i dealt with ~210 all last summer but would like it around 195-200 if not cooler.

Now would be the time to do a 3G and electric fan if you desire. It's a decent bet your OEM fan clutch has seen better days, as has the plastic fan (the latter is prone to cracking). The clutches tend to get loose when they get old (sometimes they get tight instead, and if that's the case, replacing it would not be as necessary).

i'd like to do a 3g and electric fan. i've already got a 3g sitting in my garage. the only problem is i'm not very knowledgeable about all that wiring stuff and still need to go over some "write-ups" before i muster up the courage to tackle that. (i read over head swaps for about 5 months before i felt confident to put my P's on LOL i'd just rather know what i'm doing as much as i can beforehand ya know?)

I read that if the fan spins (by hand) more than 1 revolution its bad. I'll check that asap but how would i go about replacing the fan clutch???
 
Well I have the same problem but I already change my rad and my water pump but still gettin hott......OOO and I also change my head gaskets except the headers gaskets,

i was very VERY worried my head/intake gaskets had let loose but my oil and coolant are fine so chances are they're A-OK correct?

.+1 radiator also - be sure you have the air dam underneath, word on the street is it saves you over 10 degrees in cooling efficiency.

air dam is there although its cracked, it was worried it had ripped off or something.





I called the summit tech line today and he suggested their universal 31x19x2.5 radiator (SUM-380431) over their direct-fit 29.25x19x3.25 (SUM-380451) because i pointed out that the universal isnt as THICK as the direct fit.

The difference is a whole inch. The only part i would need to modify would be the hold down brackets with a thicker radiator right? and a thinner radiator would obviously require less bending of those hold downs right?? am i crazy? who else has used the summit universal radiator????? :shrug: :shrug:


thanks for all the help guys!! you're all awesome as always
 
thermostats are the usual suspects and i know the one in there is only 6 months old but it wouldnt be uncommon for it to have gone bad again. I would try putting in a thermostat again with 160 -185 degree one. Its the cheapest of your possible options for repair so i would make it your first thing to try. Also make sure there is no air trapped in the cooling system. Good luck
 
ok update!

went with the summit universal 31x19 but had to do some work to make it fit right. i couldnt get the clamps over the top of the radiator so i bought some aluminum bar stock from work and bent it so it would go across the rad and hold it down that way.

i saw someone else do this while i was researching the summit universal rad and i think it looks great. i'll get pics later this week sorry.

problem is i didnt have time to mess with the stock fan shroud or get that to fit right.....so i dont have a shroud on at the moment. :nonono: and i just rigged the overflow up to the aluminum barstock for the moment.

------> big problem i have is if i run the car up to 180 and then sit in traffic it'll start to climb to 200. i go back to 50mph and it drops to 180. i'm betting this has to do with the fact i dont have a shroud right????? :shrug: :shrug:

i'm working on getting my 3g alt and hopefully a mark8 electric fan hooked up so i'm thinking that'll solve the stop and go cooling problem. good idea? :shrug:
 
i'm betting this has to do with the fact i dont have a shroud right?????

You're correct.

i'm working on getting my 3g alt and hopefully a mark8 electric fan hooked up so i'm thinking that'll solve the stop and go cooling problem. good idea?

Sounds good to me. Just make sure you have the clearance for the thickness of the Mark VIII fan.

Good luck.
 
ooh yes i should check that before i do anything! thanks!

also, what years mark 8 should i be looking for? 93-95 ok? i've been reading that these are the "kings" of junkyard electric fans but i havent come across anything for what years are good, yet.

by the way, once i begin this project i'm sure i'll be starting a few threads looking for help with wiring and all that electrical jazz. :p :lol:
 
It 95* outside, so running 220* is fine. I would be a little concerned if it was 10* and you running 220*, but really don't need to be concerned until 240*+ or if you are boiling over.

I respectfully disagree. He has a 180* t-stat and new cooling system components. I see ambient temps up to 115*F and even then, would find 220* operating temps unacceptable.