Anti-theft "device"

Be careful of the wire sizes and switch current capacity. If you switch the pump power feed insted of the relay power feed you can quickly overheat small gauge wiring and cheap switches.

Follow this tech note for the best way to wire a fuel pump kill or anti-theft switch the right way, switching only the low current relay power...

On 86- 91 cars the fuel pump relay is under the driver’s seat, 92 and later cars, the fuel pump relay is under the Mass air duct on the passenger fender well.

Note that the wire colors changed in 1991, so there are two different descriptions.

86-90 model cars:
Cut the red/black wire going to the fuel pump relay. Splice a 16 or 18 gauge wire into the wire and connect it to one side of the switch. Connect the other side of the switch to the other end of the red/black wire going to the fuel pump relay. When you are done the switch should be in the middle of the spliced red/black wire that goes to and comes from the fuel pump relay. Using the control side of the circuit allows you to use light gauge wire and light duty switches. There is less than 1 amp going through the circuit, so you don’t have to worry about voltage drop across the wiring depriving the fuel pump of electrical power.
See http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiB..._us/0900823d/80/16/71/3c/0900823d8016713c.jsp for 79-88 model wiring diagrams.


91-93 model cars:
Cut the Lt Blue/Orange wire going to the fuel pump relay. Splice a 16 or 18 gauge wire into the wire and connect it to one side of the switch. Connect the other side of the switch to the other end of the Lt Blue/Orange wire going to the fuel pump relay. When you are done the switch should be in the middle of the spliced Lt Blue/Orange wire that goes to and comes from the fuel pump relay. Using the control side of the circuit allows you to use light gauge wire and light duty switches. There is less than 1 amp going through the circuit, so you don’t have to worry about voltage drop across the wiring depriving the fuel pump of electrical power.
See http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiB..._us/0900823d/80/19/59/5a/0900823d8019595a.jsp for 89-93 model wiring diagrams.

I dig the neutral safety switch method more than the fuel pump route. Since mine's an AOD-T5 conversion, I'll have to give this a shot on mine sometime ... just for extra piece of mind. Not that a car as beat up and worn as mine is as likely a theft target as a much more pristine and lower-mileage model, but still ... it's a notch. I mean, I wasted the past month trying to sell the thing for only $2,500, and all I got was a bunch of cheapskates and losers that wanted to play the "Wave cash in his face and he'll drop the price" game ... but I'm sure someone out there's stupid enough to wanna steal it (instead of buying it for a steal).

I'm kinda partial to the "fire a couple of rounds, THEN call 9-1-1" anti-theft system.

BullittAndy said:

How many amps are in the NSS circuit? I've got a 10 amp switch-enough?

Click to expand...

Did you use your trick to disable the fuel pump or just disable the starter?

The NSS harness is probably 18 gauge wire which is good for 5-7 amps. A 10 amp switch should be good for that.

I have an anti theft device, actually two. It's the Mossberg 500 series 12gauge. It's works great too, when someone approaches my car and attempts to break a window , you hear chirp chirp, then you hear a CLINK CLINK sound as a warning. Then when they continue to get in the car, you hear this super loud BANG!!!!!!!!!!!!!

He's hauls ass, No car stolen, no problems, back to bed, goodnight