any B cammers out there?

NUTCASE

New Member
Mar 31, 2005
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I am trying to do a motor on a shoestring budget

I have gotten a longblock for a good price but it has no cam. so I figured while I why just put a stock one back in. I know I am usually a supporter of the stock HO cam but this is different, the whole thing is apart, so why not.

I was thinking of going with a B cam. the only other motor mod is an intake manifold and the rest is all bolt ons so I figured this would be the way to go. I diddn't want an E cam or similar just becouse I have heard about so many people not geting ANY torq out of it. I have a friend who used an E cam and he always complaned becouse he had no power below 3500rpm. I also have another friend who got an E cam and is having nightmares tunig his car. I notice alot of cams made by other companies are either E cam wannabies or over .5xx lift which would be a bit much for me.

or I might just stay stock cammed and get some 1.7rr's and advance the stock cam 4* (the long block comes with the frpp timing chain so it will be adjustable)

also, I don't have any need for a "lumpy" idol. I like my car being a bit on the stealthy side


so I just want to see how some of you B cam people run.
 
If you dont like a lopey idle, you wont like the B-cam. I have had E-cams before and I have one car now with an E and one with a B. The B lopes more than the E does. Havnt really drove the car with the B cam yet since Im still finishing it up, but I expect it will have less torque down low than the E, and probably a little more up top. The E cam doesnt lope as much as the B but there is still no mistaking it for a stock cam. The E cam runs great in my combo and has plenty of low end.
 
I love my B cam, it has graet power and torque (I spinn my tires very easily) and it has a very lopey sound. That being said you can get a TFS stage 1 for far less than a B cam unless you've found a great deal somewhere and the TFS is a more modern design. If emissions are a concern, the E cam is e-legal while the B cam is not e-legal and neither is the TFS stage 1.
-Tim
 
the b-cam is not THAT lopey. its sound is definately more prominant than stock, but not to the extent that the car sounds like its got mechanical lifters. yet- i would agree that the bcam DOES sound bad ass. If youre going for stealthy, yet powerful.. DEF go with the bcam. i drove my buddies 5.0 w/ecam, and even with 4.10's (mine has 3.73's) mine felt that it would pull harder in the 2500-4000 range.. IF the wheels didnt spin :cheers:
 
I have 5 combos I've used:
302 with E7 heads, ported, polished, 3 angle valve job, comp springs, titanium retainers and locks..

F cam 1.60 RR's .. shift at 7300
E cam 1.72 RR's .. shift at 6200
B cam 1.72 RR's .. shift at 5800
Stock 1.72 RR's .. shift at 5200
Explorer 1.72 RR's .. shift at 5100

Worst idle: B cam... by far
Best high end: F cam... by far
Best midrange: E cam
Best low end: stock
Best idle: explorer
 
VG30DE said:
I have 5 combos I've used:
302 with E7 heads, ported, polished, 3 angle valve job, comp springs, titanium retainers and locks..

F cam 1.60 RR's .. shift at 7300
E cam 1.72 RR's .. shift at 6200
B cam 1.72 RR's .. shift at 5800
Stock 1.72 RR's .. shift at 5200
Explorer 1.72 RR's .. shift at 5100

Worst idle: B cam... by far
Best high end: F cam... by far
Best midrange: E cam
Best low end: stock
Best idle: explorer

that is good info, the only issue I have with it you tested most of the cams with 1.72 rockers. I don't think the alphabet cams are intended for that
 
JMD Engineering said:
the b-cam is not THAT lopey. its sound is definately more prominant than stock, but not to the extent that the car sounds like its got mechanical lifters. yet- i would agree that the bcam DOES sound bad ass. If youre going for stealthy, yet powerful.. DEF go with the bcam. i drove my buddies 5.0 w/ecam, and even with 4.10's (mine has 3.73's) mine felt that it would pull harder in the 2500-4000 range.. IF the wheels didnt spin :cheers:
I'm not sure if our definitions of "stealthy" are the same. To me, stealthy is like a sleeper, not noticible, ordinary looking/sounding. There is no way someone could listen to my car w/ the b cam and not know it's cammed. The B cam has a reputation for sounding bigger than it is. Sure, my car has an o/r h pipe and flowmasters which enhance the lope, but still. All I'm saying is that if a stealthy sleeper of a car fitting "my" definition above is your goal, you probably won't want a B cam.

Some guys prefer the stock cam and actually get better performance from the stock cam than an aftermarket. I'm not a cam guru, so I can't tell you which cam is the best for your setup, but you don't necessarily have to change the cam just because you have the motor apart; although, I agree that it is the most convienient time to do so. :nice:

Good Luck
 
TheUser said:
Some guys prefer the stock cam and actually get better performance from the stock cam than an aftermarket. I'm not a cam guru, so I can't tell you which cam is the best for your setup, but you don't necessarily have to change the cam just because you have the motor apart; although, I agree that it is the most convienient time to do so. :nice:

Good Luck

ya know, your the third person I have EVER heard say that. which is also funny becouse I outran a few cammed 5.0's before I blew my motor. like I stated above, one other option I have heard some good reviews about is a stock cam advance 4* with a 1.7rr. I guess if I do that and it doesn't work it would be easier to swich everything back as opposed as to swapping another cam.

I'm just a little hesitant on that becouse I think it feels like a waste to have the whole thing pulled apart just to throw another stock cam back in
 
TheUser said:
I'm not sure if our definitions of "stealthy" are the same. To me, stealthy is like a sleeper, not noticible, ordinary looking/sounding. There is no way someone could listen to my car w/ the b cam and not know it's cammed. The B cam has a reputation for sounding bigger than it is. Sure, my car has an o/r h pipe and flowmasters which enhance the lope, but still. All I'm saying is that if a stealthy sleeper of a car fitting "my" definition above is your goal, you probably won't want a B cam.

Some guys prefer the stock cam and actually get better performance from the stock cam than an aftermarket. I'm not a cam guru, so I can't tell you which cam is the best for your setup, but you don't necessarily have to change the cam just because you have the motor apart; although, I agree that it is the most convienient time to do so. :nice:

Good Luck

very true, my friend. im used to hearing a 460 w/a monster of a grind roaring in my nextdoor neighbors garage. so when i start my car up - it sounds no louder than a microwave in comparison. all is well :hail2:
 
ok, time to ressurect this thread

it is determined, I am doing a cam

I just want to know, for those of you that have the B cam how would it be until I can lower the gears? right now I got the 3.08's and I can't afford to do everything at once but the motor is going in so that is what is getting done. I am just guessing I would be lumping around like a dog and the only time the car might do anything is if I downshift like 2 gears. I also imagine that on the 3.08's and Bcam 5th would become rather useless

I am also debating the F cam but I don't know if stock E7's can take the lift?
 
Many many years ago I had 3.08s, ported stock heads and B303...car was a dog until I tossed in 3.73s. Then it was fun but if I knew then what I know now I would have opted for something else. It also made died out @5200rpm and considering you have stock unported heads I would figure you'll peak sooner.

A brand new crane 2030 (216/220) is $180 and you could probably find one used somewhere..this will make for a much more enjoyable car!
 
NUTCASE said:
ok, time to ressurect this thread

it is determined, I am doing a cam

I just want to know, for those of you that have the B cam how would it be until I can lower the gears? right now I got the 3.08's and I can't afford to do everything at once but the motor is going in so that is what is getting done. I am just guessing I would be lumping around like a dog and the only time the car might do anything is if I downshift like 2 gears. I also imagine that on the 3.08's and Bcam 5th would become rather useless

I am also debating the F cam but I don't know if stock E7's can take the lift?

D-O-G dog. 3.08's will suck with the B303. If you are gonna by a new cam look into the TrickFlow Stage 1 cam. It's cheap and a good power maker.

I have a B303 cam and have defended it many times, but lately I've been a little more objective about it's abilities and their are times at low engine and vehicle speeds where it is kinda doggy even with 3.73's if you're not in a low enough gear. With an auto it isn't bad because the converter will flash and get the revs up.

Don't get me wrong the B303 is a decent cam, but for the money there are better choices available.

EDIT: Oh yeah almost forgot. With the TrickFlow stock head spring upgrade from Summit for like $130 the stock heads can handle the lift of the F303. My car has B303 with 1.72 FRPP rockers (0.516" lift - more than the F303 with 1.6 rockers) and the TF springs on stock heads w/ no issues.
 
I have a B-303 with 4:10 gears, fun as hell. Its rpm rance is 2500 to 5500 in the books. Driving around at 2k is fun cause i barely have to touch the peddle to get to 2500 when the cam really kicks in. The gears are great as long as you have spare change for gas and dont plan on making any roadtrips. Its a great cam for the streets, if you plan on seeing alot of track time then step it up to a E cam. There are other companys that make performance cams then ford you know...
 
yeah, I might check out the tfs cam. a friend of mine with alot more mods just put one in but he hasen't started his car since he started pulling it apart so we don't know what the gains are really gonna be yet