any engine gurus out there?

boss_302 · Jan 25, 2006

Just managed to fire my motor up.Its a 351w with dart cast iron heads,singleplane intake,holley,my ? is about the roller rockers how can i tell if they are for solid or hydraulic cam they are erson 1.6 and are fitted with an inner allen key type lockscrew.All this motor work was done by someone else before i bought the car.At the moment the car sounds like if it has solid lifters/cam or i didnt adjust them properly any ideas or is there are way of adusting roller rockers see pic below.Thanks javed

1320stang · Jan 25, 2006

We're all experts, just ask us. LOL!!

Had the engine ever been fired before or had it been sitting for a while? If so did you prime the engine before starting it?

Yes, you can adjust them, the nut in the center of the rocker should have an allen set screw in the middle, you back that off then turn the nut. The allen screw pushes on the end of the stud to lock the nut in place.

As far as figuring out if you have a solid or hydraulic cam. I believe if you pull out a pushrod, you can look down the hole at the top of the lifter. A hydraulic lifter has a retaining wire clip that looks like a couple of parallel lines near the outside edge of the hole where the pushrod goes in the center. If you don't see these, then I would think you have a solid lifter cam. Whether or not you have a hydraulic or hydraulic roller cam, you might be able to see the connecting bars or spyder if so equiped. The only solid lifter lifter I've ever had was a roller cam amd I don't recall what the pushrod cup on it looked like.

boss_302 · Jan 25, 2006

1320stang said:
We're all experts, just ask us. LOL!!

Had the engine ever been fired before or had it been sitting for a while? If so did you prime the engine before starting it?

Yes, you can adjust them, the nut in the center of the rocker should have an allen set screw in the middle, you back that off then turn the nut. The allen screw pushes on the end of the stud to lock the nut in place.

As far as figuring out if you have a solid or hydraulic cam. I believe if you pull out a pushrod, you can look down the hole at the top of the lifter. A hydraulic lifter has a retaining wire clip that looks like a couple of parallel lines near the outside edge of the hole where the pushrod goes in the center. If you don't see these, then I would think you have a solid lifter cam. Whether or not you have a hydraulic or hydraulic roller cam, you might be able to see the connecting bars or spyder if so equiped. The only solid lifter lifter I've ever had was a roller cam amd I don't recall what the pushrod cup on it looked like.

Yes i primed the engine before i fired it up its been stood for 3 yrs with me.The previous owner i got it off didnt do the work on it .It was done before he got the car.Regards javed

mustangdave · Jan 25, 2006

As far as I know, there is no difference between rockers for solid or hydraulic cams. The difference is in the cam and lifters.

brianj5600 · Jan 25, 2006

What about it sounds like a solid? If you bring it to tdc and the rockers have slack, it is a solid most likely. If you cannot easily wiggle them it is likely a hyd.

LMan · Jan 25, 2006

regardless, the rockers dont care what the cam is underneath them....

boss_302 · Jan 25, 2006

brianj5600 said:
What about it sounds like a solid? If you bring it to tdc and the rockers have slack, it is a solid most likely. If you cannot easily wiggle them it is likely a hyd.

The clickety click sound, i have a 70 boss that sounds the same thats why i thought i might have a solid lifter cam they are tight no wiggle i checked again and have a couple of loose rockers which i adjusted and tightend according the shop manual that would also explain the backfire i have thru the carb.regards javed

iskwezm · Jan 25, 2006

boss_302 said:
The clickety click sound, i have a 70 boss that sounds the same thats why i thought i might have a solid lifter cam they are tight no wiggle i checked again and have a couple of loose rockers which i adjusted and tightend according the shop manual that would also explain the backfire i have thru the carb.regards javed

what does your shop manuel say as far as the procedure. I bring each cylinder to TDC,then tighen while surning the pushrod to where its snug which is "0" lash then 1/2-3/4 turn more, thats my way,others might differ.
I have a solid, but can barely hear it over the blower and gear drive and exhaust

boss_302 · Jan 25, 2006

iskwezm said:
what does your shop manuel say as far as the procedure. I bring each cylinder to TDC,then tighen while surning the pushrod to where its snug which is "0" lash then 1/2-3/4 turn more, thats my way,others might differ.
I have a solid, but can barely hear it over the blower and gear drive and exhaust

I done what the shop manual said .Is there a different procedure with roller rockers do you tighten the hex nut then the allen headed set screw inside the big hex nut.regards javed

iskwezm · Jan 25, 2006

boss_302 said:
I done what the shop manual said .Is there a different procedure with roller rockers do you tighten the hex nut then the allen headed set screw inside the big hex nut.regards javed

I tighten the outer nut then "lock" it with the center allen

milner351 · Jan 25, 2006

Javed
It may be worth your time to consult the competition cams website or another cam company website and read through their valve setting procedure for solid lifter camshafts.
Tightening up the loose ones you found may have solved all your problems already though.

washMO66 · Jan 25, 2006

boss_302 said:
I done what the shop manual said .Is there a different procedure with roller rockers do you tighten the hex nut then the allen headed set screw inside the big hex nut.regards javed

You are correct, you have polylocks, you tighten the hex nut, then lock the adjustment into place with the allen screw. Keep in mind if you have a hydraulic roller cam the lifters can bleed down after the initial adjustment making it somewhat frustrating when you do this the first time (trust me). you need to go around the horn a couple of times to ensure that you have them all tightened to spec.

Which spec on mine was just so you slightly move them with a little effort, then go back a second time and re-check. Mine made some noise, not alot, but some noise, especially when you get one that isn't quite right.

In all honesty if your hydraulic, they should not need to be messed with all that often (once, maybe twice a year if that)

Good luck

boss_302 · Jan 27, 2006

thanks

thanks guys all running sweet an quite

180 Out · Jan 27, 2006

I guess I'm a little late, but with the valve covers off you can check for a hydraulic lifter just by choosing a valve that's closed and pushing down on the pushrod end of the rocker. If you CAN push it down -- and it will also come back up when you release it -- then it's a hydraulic lifter.

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