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  • 1965 - 1973 Classic Mustangs -General/Talk-
  • Classic Mustang Specific Tech

any suggestions on the market value of this car?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Snail50
  • Start date Start date Feb 20, 2004
S

Snail50

Founding Member
Mar 24, 2001
787
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Miami
Feb 20, 2004
#1
  • Feb 20, 2004
  • #1
I know, I know, not another one of THOSE questions.

This weekend I'm going to look at a 68 coupe.

It has the turn-signal hood, black vinyl top, AT, original AC (upgraded w/modern compressor), New radiator, PS, manual brakes, 289 Engine (rebuilt w/ hardened seats), Cobra engine dress kit, lower console, deluxe door panels, wood grain dash, GT rims, GT pop-open gas cap, rear valance w/cutouts for dual/dual pipes, GT rear reflectors (chrome trimmed). It's not a real GT, just GT options added.
The interior is maroon, and looks to be in good to very good condition. He said the car was restored from the frame up 12 years ago, which was before he bought it. (I think he said the pans were replaced then). He's owned it ten years, it's been garage-kept the entire time he's owned it, and driven once or twice a week.
The seller is very forthcoming in answering all of my questions. He said that there are now small blisters beginning to show on the lower front corners of the doors where rust was repaired during the resto 12 years ago. The gas gauge does not work (sender?) and the speedo reads high (he thinks the wrong speedo gear was installed in the trans).
He also thinks that the car was originally a 6 cyl, but was turned into an 8 by a previous owner (it does have 5 lugs and the VIN says it's a 289).
Included are several boxes of miscellaneous trim and replacement parts. He says the car runs and drives excellent, and it looks clean and straight in the photos he sent me.
He's asking $5900, recently reduced from $6900. Selling because he has a 50-something Skyliner he wants to restore, needs $ and garage space.
 
S

Snail50

Founding Member
Mar 24, 2001
787
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0
Miami
Feb 20, 2004
#2
  • Feb 20, 2004
  • #2
I'm really looking for a very general price range, in case people didn't to be too specific without having seen photos of the car.

I'm in FL, and I've seen several ads for FL Mustangs (67-68 coupes) in the $10K t0 $13K range. I recently called on a 68 listed for $10K, and it didn't have nearly the options that the one I posted above has. I know some people are wildly optimistic about what their car is worth, but I'm trying to figure out what a realistic price range is.
 

dolfan87

Founding Member
Dec 28, 2000
1,242
0
0
Lake Havasu, AZ
www.finheaven.com
Feb 20, 2004
#3
  • Feb 20, 2004
  • #3
I think his asking price is very fair, as long as there isn't any major repairs needed.

Even if it looks nice, go over it with a fine tooth comb.

Good Luck!

87
 
M

mp67

Founding Member
Nov 4, 2002
392
0
0
Texas
Feb 20, 2004
#4
  • Feb 20, 2004
  • #4
dolfan87 said:
I think his asking price is very fair, as long as there isn't any major repairs needed.

Even if it looks nice, go over it with a fine tooth comb.

Good Luck!

87
Click to expand...

Agreed. But it does not hurt to make a lower offer anyway.
 

LMan

Founding Member
Aug 10, 2002
1,246
0
0
Mom's basement
Feb 20, 2004
#5
  • Feb 20, 2004
  • #5
Snail50 said:
I know, I know, not another one of THOSE questions.

This weekend I'm going to look at a 68 coupe.

It has the turn-signal hood, black vinyl top, AT, original AC (upgraded w/modern compressor), New radiator, PS, manual brakes, 289 Engine (rebuilt w/ hardened seats), Cobra engine dress kit, lower console, deluxe door panels, wood grain dash, GT rims, GT pop-open gas cap, rear valance w/cutouts for dual/dual pipes, GT rear reflectors (chrome trimmed). It's not a real GT, just GT options added.
The interior is maroon, and looks to be in good to very good condition. He said the car was restored from the frame up 12 years ago, which was before he bought it. (I think he said the pans were replaced then). He's owned it ten years, it's been garage-kept the entire time he's owned it, and driven once or twice a week.
The seller is very forthcoming in answering all of my questions. He said that there are now small blisters beginning to show on the lower front corners of the doors where rust was repaired during the resto 12 years ago. The gas gauge does not work (sender?) and the speedo reads high (he thinks the wrong speedo gear was installed in the trans).
He also thinks that the car was originally a 6 cyl, but was turned into an 8 by a previous owner (it does have 5 lugs and the VIN says it's a 289).
Included are several boxes of miscellaneous trim and replacement parts. He says the car runs and drives excellent, and it looks clean and straight in the photos he sent me.
He's asking $5900, recently reduced from $6900. Selling because he has a 50-something Skyliner he wants to restore, needs $ and garage space.
Click to expand...


if you get the VIN, then it will be easy to see if it was originally a Six.
 
S

Snail50

Founding Member
Mar 24, 2001
787
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0
Miami
Feb 20, 2004
#6
  • Feb 20, 2004
  • #6
thanks all.

I also think that the price is fairly realistic, (without having seen it, of course), and from what he told me it doesn't need any repairs at all. Well, other than the gas gauge, the speedo, and having the rust blisters dealt with. According to him, the rust blisters are not easily noticeable, but that they are there. I can't see them in the photos he sent me.

I do plan on going over it with a fine-tooth comb. We'll see.

If anyone else wants to chime in here, please do. I'm going to look at the car tomorrow (4 hour drive), and I'd like as many suggestions as I can get.
 
S

Snail50

Founding Member
Mar 24, 2001
787
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0
Miami
Feb 20, 2004
#7
  • Feb 20, 2004
  • #7
LMan said:
if you get the VIN, then it will be easy to see if it was originally a Six.
Click to expand...

The VIN he gave me says it's a C code.

LMan: Airborne, Hooah!
 

LMan

Founding Member
Aug 10, 2002
1,246
0
0
Mom's basement
Feb 20, 2004
#8
  • Feb 20, 2004
  • #8
hoooah!!!!!

watch that PLF
 
S

Snail50

Founding Member
Mar 24, 2001
787
0
0
Miami
Feb 20, 2004
#9
  • Feb 20, 2004
  • #9
LMan said:
hoooah!!!!!

watch that PLF
Click to expand...

Feet and knees together, baby!
 
S

Snail50

Founding Member
Mar 24, 2001
787
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0
Miami
Feb 21, 2004
#10
  • Feb 21, 2004
  • #10
alright. heading out soon. I'll post the results tonight.
 
S

Snail50

Founding Member
Mar 24, 2001
787
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0
Miami
Feb 21, 2004
#11
  • Feb 21, 2004
  • #11
I'm back.
empty handed.
The car looked good from a distance, but up close it lost its appeal very quickly. The body rust was mainly just blisters, but the underbody was a mess. The floor seemed to have been repaired at some point, like the seller said, but not with correct pans, rather with thick plate steel welded in place. The welds were very rusty, and it was obvious that a LOT had been covered with undercoating and body filler. Also, there were places where the frame was rusted nearly in two, but I had to jack the car up and crawl under it to find it. In places the frame was flaking apart so badly it looked like a flower opening up.
Just way too much for me to deal with. I'd rather spend more for a solid platform than try to fix somethign like this.
8 hours of driving (argh), but at least I got to spend some QT with the family.
 
6

67GTA-FB429

Member
Dec 15, 2003
777
0
16
Tri-Cities, Wa
Feb 22, 2004
#12
  • Feb 22, 2004
  • #12
you might say 8 hours wasted...but then again better than 6k wasted!! better hunting next time.

try looking inland, away from the ocean and the salt air.
 
S

Snail50

Founding Member
Mar 24, 2001
787
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0
Miami
Feb 22, 2004
#13
  • Feb 22, 2004
  • #13
67GTA-FB429 said:
you might say 8 hours wasted...but then again better than 6k wasted!! better hunting next time.

try looking inland, away from the ocean and the salt air.
Click to expand...


Actually, by the time I was finished looking at the car and talking to him about it, he was willing to sell it to me for 3K cash. Even at 3K, it was more of a project than I wanted to get into.
I want something that is solid and driveable, that I can immediately start resto-modding rather than sinking $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ into it just to make it solid enough to restomod.
Also, I don't want that little voice in the back of my mind saying "don't take the corner so fast or the frame will break." I also would have had to replace 90% of the interior and exterior trim; it wasn't in terrible shape, but most of it looked like low-quality aftermarket replacement stuff. The "wood grain" dash was a thin plastic wood-look sticker that was peeling off in places. Aesthetic details like that drive me absolutely insane, and I would have sunk a ton of money into it just to get the little details right, which is stupid because I know there are cars out there with all the original trim, etc, largely intact.
There are plenty of Mustangs out there, so I don't feel the slightest remorse about passing on this one.
Thanks for the advice.
 

68GEETEE

5 Year Member
Nov 21, 2003
481
5
38
Texas, USA
Feb 22, 2004
#14
  • Feb 22, 2004
  • #14
most coastal state stangs have rust, or were rusted at some point and then repaired. Try looking inland, even if you have to travel to another state, may be worth the trip to find a 'rust free' stang.
 
S

Snail50

Founding Member
Mar 24, 2001
787
0
0
Miami
Feb 22, 2004
#15
  • Feb 22, 2004
  • #15
true. The search will go on. I don't want to start with a seive.
 
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