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Suspension Any Tips On Replacing Factory Front Control Arms?

  • Thread starter Thread starter wiseguyk
  • Start date Start date Sep 23, 2016
  • Tags Tags
    ball joints control arms front lower control arms

wiseguyk

5 Year Member
Sep 23, 2016
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Florida
Sep 23, 2016
#1
  • Sep 23, 2016
  • #1
I've been lurking for a long time on here and love the wealth of info that is available on the forums!

I've searched and searched but haven't had any luck finding any threads describing the correct process for replacing factory lower front control arms on a 86-93 fox. I have old worn out ball joints and just went ahead and bought stock replacement control arms (with joints & bushings) after reading what a pain it is to remove and replace the ball joints themselves.

I've already done springs and struts on the car so I have a pretty good idea of what needs to be done but wanted to reach out to you guys to see if there's any specific tricks that could make my life easier.

For example, can I leave the strut connected to the spindle, place a jack under the arm, and just unbolt the ball joint, lower the jack, remove the spring and arm, and reinstall? It's not a big deal if I have to remove the strut completely but if I don't have to that would be awesome.

Thanks!
 

LiquidStangs

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Dec 13, 2015
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Indianapolis metro area
Sep 23, 2016
#2
  • Sep 23, 2016
  • #2
I did this not too long ago, but I replaced struts, springs, control arms, and sway bar links all at once.

Beware of the bolts connecting the control arms to the K member. There are four of them, two per side. I had two bolts that came out like you'd expect, and two that appear to have rust-welded to the inner bushing sleeve. I ended up having to cut those bolts to get the control arms out. I don't know how that compares to the hassle of pressing out ball joints.

I think I'd do the same thing I did before: remove the spindle completely from the car. Getting the ball joint aligned properly into the spindle might be more of a hassle than getting the struts aligned when you're compressing the spring at the same time. With the spindle out, you can slide it onto the new ball joint before compressing the spring to link up with the strut. Downside, of course, is that you'd have to mess with the tie rod ends that way.

Be warned: I'm a noob, so anyone contradicting me is almost certainly correct.
 
Reactions: pats91 and RaggedGT

90sickfox

Wasn't a pretty sight...and I've got big hands
SN Certified Technician
Mar 2, 2015
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Sep 23, 2016
#3
  • Sep 23, 2016
  • #3
I know its been a few days but.....the bolts going into the k member should be tightened with the car sitting on the wheels. Failure to do that can cause bushing premature failure.

When I do them I just snug the arm bolts at the k member....install spring, spindle, strut, brake calipers, wheels, and then I let the car down on ramps....slide under and then tighten the control arm bolts.

People tighten them with the suspension hanging all the time.....and I cringe every time.
 
Reactions: 2000xp8

2000xp8

SN Certified Technician
Aug 8, 2003
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Sep 24, 2016
#4
  • Sep 24, 2016
  • #4
While I know it's already too late you have the arms, ball joints are not hard to do, you buy a ball joint press at harbor freight for like $30. Much easier than pulling the entire arm.

You can keep or lose the spindles during the process, just remember there is only two shock bolts, if you are using an impact gun, not removing them only saves like 30 seconds.
 

wiseguyk

5 Year Member
Sep 23, 2016
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Florida
Sep 24, 2016
#5
  • Sep 24, 2016
  • #5
Thanks for the advice guys! I know I sound super lazy wanting to remove as little as possible and it sounds like I should follow the same process I did for the springs and remove the spindles as well.

I actually don't have an impact gun, but today helped my mother's boyfriend install a lift in his shop which granted me full shop access in the future so now I will though, along with so many more tools than I have personally!!

I really hope I won't have issues with the control arm connecting bolts like you mentioned, LiquidStangs. It's a Florida car and has frame rust at all so fingers crossed on that.

Thanks for the tip on waiting to do the final tightening until the car's back on the ground, the last thing I want to do is put premature wear on the new bushings.

I'm hoping to get around to this next weekend and will let you guys know how it goes!
 
Reactions: LiquidStangs and 90sickfox

deathb4dismount

Crap, didn’t realize my crotch was in that picture
15 Year Member
Oct 6, 2011
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Sep 27, 2016
#6
  • Sep 27, 2016
  • #6
I just replaced complete front suspension. I had no trouble with control arm bolts, just put a little pb blaster on them and the came out with wrench and socket. The nut on the ball joint to spindle was not coming off and ended up cutting. A good angle grinder is your friend
 

wiseguyk

5 Year Member
Sep 23, 2016
302
85
58
Florida
Oct 16, 2016
#7
  • Oct 16, 2016
  • #7
I finally got the time to do the control arm replacement yesterday and everything went well!

I didn't have a puller tool to get the ball joint off the spindle, but was able to get it off with a big ass hammer. The control arm bolts were definitely stuck on there good, but I'd soaked them with PB blaster a couple times over the last few weeks and was able to get them with a breaker bar and some elbow grease.

The MVP of the day was the spring installation tool by Maximum Motorsports. When I did the suspension a few months ago I used a friend's old spring compressor tool to get the springs in and it was an absolute nightmare trying to get the clamps in the right spot to allow the spring to be compressed and still seat correctly when the control arm was lifted. The MM spring tool worked perfectly and makes the install SO much easier and faster. Definitely worth the $20 to avoid the couple hours I spent messing with the compressor tool the first time.

I think the biggest pain of the whole process might have been doing the final tightening of the bolts with the car off the lift. I didn't have the right combination of socket extensions to allow me to clear the tire when tightening so it was a pretty limited range of motion. If I had a set of ramps it would have made that part easier but was still doable without them.

I took some pics of the passenger side while doing it in case anyone wants to check that out here: https://goo.gl/photos/cuendTCCo7Nx3zfQ9 Please ignore the terrible red spray painted calipers, they were like that when I bought the car haha. Thanks again guys for all the great advice!
 

LiquidStangs

Well-Known Member
Dec 13, 2015
183
216
63
Indianapolis metro area
Oct 16, 2016
#8
  • Oct 16, 2016
  • #8
+1 on the MM tool. When I did my front suspension, installing the new springs was one of the easiest parts of the build.
 
Reactions: wiseguyk

Moosee1955

Active Member
Sep 30, 2016
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Oct 16, 2016
#9
  • Oct 16, 2016
  • #9
A friend with a car lift, is a friend indeed. Be nice to this man!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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