just got my new tf street heat. i did a couple searches and even got a paged saved on my favorites (how to) i think it should be pretty easy, but its always good to be safe rather then sorry. got all my gaskets except thermostat and i know i need to do an oil change afterwards. i might takes some pics along the way. and of course ill be getting dynoed again sometime after.
any tips or tricks..
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Swarzkopf
Member
My tips:
1. Don't use a thermostat gasket, only use RTV. In my experience, the ****ing thermostat housing LOVES to leak with regular gaskets, but hasn't ever leaked on me when using straight RTV.
2. Use some sort of guide studs when installing the manifold; I bought 4 real long bolts from Home Depot and cut the heads off of them, and lowered the intake onto these. It was still a pain in the ass. I couldn't have done it without the studs.
1. Don't use a thermostat gasket, only use RTV. In my experience, the ****ing thermostat housing LOVES to leak with regular gaskets, but hasn't ever leaked on me when using straight RTV.
2. Use some sort of guide studs when installing the manifold; I bought 4 real long bolts from Home Depot and cut the heads off of them, and lowered the intake onto these. It was still a pain in the ass. I couldn't have done it without the studs.
1105
I AM the random post master...bow down
1. a paper gasket is perfectly fine for the t-stat housing. It's all I ever used and haven't had a single problems with it leaking yet. I would not suggest using RTV for this.
2. When installing the lower intake gasket, do not throw the rubber (or cork) block pieces away... They are there for a reason. Pick up a tube of weather strip adhesive and some RTV if you don't allready have it. Put a line of weather strip adhesive on the bottom of the rubber/cork pieces and set them on the block where they are supposed to go, let it dry. Place the two gaskets that sit on the heads on, and where the rubber/cork pieces meet up with the other gaskets, put a dab of RTV there to fill in the groove, then install the intake immediatly.
3. go out and give it hell, then tell us what it was like.
2. When installing the lower intake gasket, do not throw the rubber (or cork) block pieces away... They are there for a reason. Pick up a tube of weather strip adhesive and some RTV if you don't allready have it. Put a line of weather strip adhesive on the bottom of the rubber/cork pieces and set them on the block where they are supposed to go, let it dry. Place the two gaskets that sit on the heads on, and where the rubber/cork pieces meet up with the other gaskets, put a dab of RTV there to fill in the groove, then install the intake immediatly.
3. go out and give it hell, then tell us what it was like.
mo_dingo
20+ Year Stangneter 
Swarzkopf said:
Ditto what he said. The threads on the heads are 5/16NC, or 5/16-18, and if you get some four 3" long studs in that thread (ace sells them that only have the NC thread on one side, and NF on the other, but since you are only using them as a guide, it won't matter), place them at all 4 corners & it will make installing the intake by yourself a piece of cake. Once the intake is on, back each stud out and replace it w/ a bolt. You don't need to torque the studs in or anything, actually you really only need about 3 or 4 turns and you are set.
Scott
1105
I AM the random post master...bow down
I don't even know why I try anymore... Go ahead throw the gaskets away and just use RTV for everything like everyone else does... Hell, I bet RTV head gaskets would sell out really fast by the way people talk about RTV on here. But what do I know.... I'm just an idiot.
I disagree with "do NOT use the paper gasket". That's what it's intended for.. Use a REALLY THIN bead of RTV on the gasket, let it set for a few minutes, then install it, leaving a good overnight set before filling and cranking!
RC
RC
i think this whole debate over the paper gasket falls under this category:
sewer rat may taste like pumpkin pie, but i won't know cuz i won't eat the filthy mother****er.
if you use the gasket i would suggest you use a very thin anerobic sealer and not rtv, but to each his own. i've just seen to many of these gaskets leak when RTV keeps on sealin, but hell i don't use any paper or cork gaskets.
sewer rat may taste like pumpkin pie, but i won't know cuz i won't eat the filthy mother****er.
if you use the gasket i would suggest you use a very thin anerobic sealer and not rtv, but to each his own. i've just seen to many of these gaskets leak when RTV keeps on sealin, but hell i don't use any paper or cork gaskets.
Swarzkopf
Member
Exactly bimmertech...sure, you can make the paper gasket work, but why **** with it over and over when RTV seals right and tight the first time?
blksn955.o
Founding Member
Actually, I realy, realy like the rubber front and rear intake gaskets, they are not in most of the kits but they are re-usable. They seal great and are cleaner than rtv. Now I do dab alittle rtv were the rubber end pieces meet the intake gasket and put rtv around both sides of the intake gasket were the water jackets are (well the 1250 has that print-o-seal stuff on one side). But thats it.
legalize420
Active Member
Like most things ..................
More than one way to get a 5.0 sealed up and good to go.
Its all good if your way works for you.
I myself very rarely use any sealer on my gaskets.
Sometimes I will use a dab of soft permatex or axle grease to hold it in place until I can get the two parts clamped together.
I've torn down motors that have been put together with gasket sealer and it is such a mess and hassle to get clean ............... Yuk.
Grady
More than one way to get a 5.0 sealed up and good to go.
Its all good if your way works for you.
I myself very rarely use any sealer on my gaskets.
Sometimes I will use a dab of soft permatex or axle grease to hold it in place until I can get the two parts clamped together.
I've torn down motors that have been put together with gasket sealer and it is such a mess and hassle to get clean ............... Yuk.
Grady
