Anyone drop in a motor with Canton pan on a fox?

281pony · Dec 27, 2004

i got my 331 finished my cousin helped me get my motor dropped in there. however it is kind of hitting my stock k-member with the deep rear sump and as a result, after he left i pulled it out again. i couldnt get the shaft to slip into the pilot bearing. so it would just move back and forth at an angle, and one side of the bellhousing would close up and the other side had a 2-3" gap if that makes sense.

im either pulling off the canton pan and going back to stock or need to figure out how im getting this in. just wondering if anyone locally has done it and has any tips.

its just sitting in the garage on the engine hoist, resting on a blanket. killing me to not get it going again.

ive never lined an engine up before alone, the last and only other time it lined up pretty easily. theres some weird interference with this though and im at a loss. thanks

stangman393 · Dec 27, 2004

I remember a problem I had on someone elses car where the 2 front corners of the rear sump was hitting on the k member. After getting the tranny in and on the #2 crossmember, I notched the k member about a 1/2" just where the corners hit. Without installing the trans first you wont be able to tell how much to notch because the motor will probably be tilted back too far.
On the trans issue pull out the throwout bearing and make sure it fits the bearing retainer on the trans. I had a parts store that gave me the wrong bearing. It visually looked the same but the ID was a .020 under size. If this is all good use your clutch alignment tool again. Also once you get the trans in with maybe an inch to go and still have problems, have a buddy depress the clutch at this point. The clutch disc could be very slightly off center and this will let it float while your installing the trans. But only do this when you have about an inch to go or the clutch disc will fall. Good luck.

Jeff

281pony · Dec 27, 2004

everything is fine with my transmission and throwout bearing.

the problem is with the canton resting on the k-member like it was, you cant get a straight shot at the shaft. its at too much of an angle so it just moves back and forth on it.

i dont have anything to cut a k-member with so im not sure what to do.

wicked93 · Dec 27, 2004

personally I would keep the pan have you thought of a tubular
k-member save some weight and the clearance gained is worth it you do not need to run coilovers if it is not in the funds and since the motor is out it is the perfect time

stangman393 · Dec 27, 2004

88SC_GT said:
everything is fine with my transmission and throwout bearing.

the problem is with the canton resting on the k-member like it was, you cant get a straight shot at the shaft. its at too much of an angle so it just moves back and forth on it.

Are you trying to install the trans with the bellhousing attached to the trans? If so, you would have a much easier time installing the bell first.

Jeff

281pony · Dec 27, 2004

no transmission is there and fully assembled.

its being supported by a jack. the engine is coming in with a hoist fully assembled with clutch/flywheel.

the pan sits on the edge of the k-member, so its at a downward angle and wont meet with the transmission shaft right. the transmission shaft basically meets at an angle and then the engine will just pivot back and forth on that.

then the block meets the bellhousing at one side and looks like it is flush, then you look at the other and its 1-3" away. keep the engine perfectly straight and there evenly off about an inch.

pain in the ass or i need someone with good skills installing an engine. ive never done it before. just need the damn thing sitting on the mounts so i can do the rest of it.

stangman393 · Dec 27, 2004

Kinda hard to to give advice without seeing it. One other thing to check. Are the motor mounts on the correct side?

Jeff

281pony · Dec 27, 2004

some of these questions are off base of what im trying to describe.

i pulled an engine from a running car. the only thing that has changed on the block thats going back in is a canton oil pan. everything else is exactly how it was left. transmission just supported by a jack, engine mounts the same, same type of block just a stroker.

the transmission shaft is meeting the pilot bearing like this -/

then it just moves back and forth from that. hope that makes more sense? it is hard to explain over the computer. PAIN IN THE ASS POS CAR sums up my overall feelings for the car over the last 3 months though

281pony · Dec 27, 2004

actually it would be meeting like this

- \

hell of an illustration haha

stangman393 · Dec 27, 2004

Take a bottle jack and a piece of wood under the rear sump and jack the back end of the motor up so it sits parallel with the trans. Trying to stab a motor onto a trans is more difficult. If not careful you could warp the clutch disc if things went into a hard bind.

Jeff

281pony · Dec 27, 2004

i might give that a shot.

its just hard to explain. that seems like it could work though. the rear sump is causing the engine to sit somewhat higher then the transmission. unless i jack the trans up higher in the tunnel, then try to line them up, then let the transmission jack out, then get tension holding the engine up higher, move the other jack under the rear, and let it down onto the mounts.

i think ill just put the stock pan back on. throw it in there and call it good. no oil pan is worth this bs.

281pony · Dec 27, 2004

anyone able to lend a hand close to lacey possibly?

im not comfortable with doing this bs. i put my stock pan back on so it should be cake for someone that knows what their doing. it is hanging on the engine hoist waiting to go in, just killing me with it sitting there. my cousin helped me before, but fractured something in his spine yesterday on a quad so cant move awhole lot to put an engine in.

i would be happy to pay someone for their time. pm me if anyone could lend a hand, shouldnt take more then an hour? i can do everything once its sitting on the mounts without a problem.

gospeedgo · Dec 27, 2004

Just a future FYI...its MUCH easier to install the engine without the trans in place. Part the bellhousing and the trans, and then pull the bell from the motor. When your ready to go back in, the lining up of parts is way easier. Makes it an easy one man job, and besides the driveline bolts, shifter, and crossmember, your that far apart anyway.

Juiced87Notch · Dec 27, 2004

gospeedgo said:
Just a future FYI...its MUCH easier to install the engine without the trans in place. Part the bellhousing and the trans, and then pull the bell from the motor. When your ready to go back in, the lining up of parts is way easier. Makes it an easy one man job, and besides the driveline bolts, shifter, and crossmember, your that far apart anyway.

take that stock pan back off and get the canton back on... get the tranny out of the way drop the motor in get the mounts bolted together and then put the tranny back in.

gospeedgo · Dec 27, 2004

sn98gt said:

Hey Focker! lol

Juiced87Notch · Dec 27, 2004

gospeedgo said:
Hey Focker! lol

I didnt see a *I agree smily*

281pony · Dec 27, 2004

mufflers, h-pipe, crossmember, shifter, driveshaft, fluid everywhere leaking from trans because i have no pump, no transmission fluid, added bs of jacking the front and rear ends up on the car. no thanks.

ive done everything on my own for 3 months now of almost everyday assembly/disassembly from my screwed shortblock before, pulling stock motor, building, disassemble, on and on.

i am out of patience. i just pulled the canton pan and sold it already. putting the stock pan back on in a few minutes and going to try it by myself.

if anyone wants to come and join the party your more then welcome. ill be out there until its in or i pass out.

Juiced87Notch · Dec 28, 2004

88SC_GT said:
mufflers, h-pipe, crossmember, shifter, driveshaft, fluid everywhere leaking from trans because i have no pump, no transmission fluid, added bs of jacking the front and rear ends up on the car. no thanks.

ive done everything on my own for 3 months now of almost everyday assembly/disassembly from my screwed shortblock before, pulling stock motor, building, disassemble, on and on.

i am out of patience. i just pulled the canton pan and sold it already. putting the stock pan back on in a few minutes and going to try it by myself.

if anyone wants to come and join the party your more then welcome. ill be out there until its in or i pass out.

eh thats what I woulda done... those cantons are nice... but you have had a rough go at it lol so good luck and I hope you get it in this time

281pony · Dec 28, 2004

canton is nice but it takes away a few small details for me on top of the fitment problems.

no more low oil sensor, dipstick needs to be bent and calibrated, however the hell you do that, and mainly the fitment. it is a nice pan, but i just have a street car so its nothing i cant live without.

just got my damn stock pan on, took longer to remove the canton then install the stocker. going out in a little bit again to see what i can get done.

281pony · Dec 28, 2004

got it in there almost.

the teeth on the input shaft are completely past the clutch forks. it has got to be damn close, its not grabbing yet though.

dont have anymore energy and my hands are bleeding too bad to continue. not sure if im going something wrong or not. its got good spacing between the forks, im probably just looking over something i can check to get it lined up better.

Anyone drop in a motor with Canton pan on a fox?

Active Member

New Member

Active Member

New Member

Active Member

New Member

Active Member

Active Member

New Member

Active Member

Active Member

Banned

Member

Banned

Member

Active Member

Member

Active Member

Active Member

Similar threads

Privacy & Transparency

Privacy & Transparency